Jeep Driver

I have parts in a box...... Have had no time in the last couple of weeks.

I'm running 2qts Havoline 10-40 and 1qt Lucas. All is well.

I seriously doubt that 50 psi is the right tire pressure for anything under an MJ. The sidewall may say that 50 psi is the maximum pressure, but that's not typically the pressure you should run them at. IMHO death wobble=tire balance. Steering damper is to prevent steering wheel "kick-back" when off-roading. I've experienced death wobble in two Jeeps that had steering dampers, so I am quite certain that the damper will not cure -- or even mask -- death wobble. Cooper AT3, 48 in front and 42 in rear. Wear is even. 8" wheel. And the Gooyear Silent Armor before these.........

Go to this thread http://comancheclub.com/topic/18925-looking-for-driveshaft-lengths-of-stock-trucks/page-4 But do not rely on stated info......you need to measure yours, IMHO.

Install your trans. Insert the drive shaft into your transfer case and make certain the yoke is where it normally rides.....match the ring on the yoke to the seal. Now, measure the center of the ujoint in the DS yoke to the center of the differential yoke. It is that measurement you want to take to your DS specialist. Should be somewhere around 47.75" IIRC.

CA bushings is my guess. Also......? my tires call for 50lbs You are running 35s that only call for 30lbs........>????????????????

Called Morris 4x4 today.......Oreillys.......Advance......Giles.......Spoke to others in the past....... Shrug........ Thats what I get. No imagination whatsoever. Finally I went in to NAPA and told the counter guy I wanted to look in the back and go through boxes till I found what I wanted.....took me less that 5 minutes.

I just picked up a pair of 2000 S10 hoses at NAPA, identical to the ones you posted here. Also, 2000+ Chevy 1500 look viable but they only had one side. $30

Aren't the hoses a little short? I'm going to the front of the axle housing. Are the cables long? I was going to grab the Liberty cables but they go all the way to the console.........like 83" or something like that...... 8.25 with Liberty hardware.

A belt that has been oil saturated will also squeal.

Which hoses are you guy using? I'm looking at the 2004 Explorer as being the most likely. Thanks

The rubber between the pulley and the hub will show signs of deterioration and, or, the pulley will be slightly out of position causing the belt to be out of line/center on the water pump pulley.

What size plug did you use?

Check your harmonic balancer.

Loop your hoses together and bypass the heater core.

Well, thanks guys. I was looking for a magic formula, I guess. The reason as mentioned before is the one day swap but I also want to have is blasted and painted and ready to go. I raised the snout 2 degrees and put her to bed. I'll let you know how it works out. Image Not Found

Agreed. Any balls your 2.5 has..........will simply roll away.

If you completely removed or unthreaded C and D.........the block fell off and you will need to find it.

My problem is that my truck is my daily driver, I have one day to do the swap. I need it completely set up..brakes..etc.....

Mine is pretty much even with the brake pedal.....maybe a tad higher.

My clutch has very little felt resistance. You cannot even get the engine to turn over? If so, turn it over with it in gear and then with the clutch depressed and see if it is indeed releasing.

I took the angle from the truck with the existing D35 and transferred those to the 8.25 Before I tack the perches I just want to make sure I'm on the right track. Thanks. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Amps have a significant draw, ground is as important as power. When I install mine, I will run a 8g ground directly to the battery.

TC at our PnP is $75, go grab you a good one.