Jeep Driver

Oh, and on the plugs..... Apparently it's a common thing to do for guys going carbed. I'm reading several thread on other sites and the funny thing is most guys are afraid to plug them thinking that whatever they use will get sucked into the engine :P Threading them for 3/8 plugs seems to be the way to go.

I appreciate that and I do understand, however, I'm not prepared to make a full swap to MPI. I'm dealing with a DD here, engine will be built and ready for a one day swap. And FWIW....I'm looking to bottom end torque here, my engine rarely sees 3000rpm.

Next question- Making an adapter plate for the TBI on the MPI intake is simple enough. Is there a way to plug the injector holes?

I'm putting together my mental wish list for a new engine. This is the Banks with MPI intake. What I'm wondering is if the Banks is compatible with the TBI intake. Anyone have any experience with this? Thanks

I read many threads last night regarding the 2.5 and blow-by, even with good numbers...120-135 on all cylinders....guys were suffering with high pressures. Apparently this is not uncommon to the 2.5s and no one has an answer as to why.

If you guys question- why all the sudden? I don't think it has happened all the sudden. The idle has a sweet spot, around 800rpm. The ICM has never worked so I was able to set the idle manually, now that the computer sets the idle I now notice the problem and my compression loss is apparent at 450-500rpm. I guess I'll get a few more months out of it since it's been this way for some time now. I suspect that the ring wear has met critical mass and has now shown itself. Interesting thing is that when I replaced the trans and rear main seal I also replaced the pan gasket and I could examine the cylinder walls, they looked very clean, no scares, no signs of wear, nice and shiny.

From my research the ISC is MPI and the ICM is TBI. Idle Control Motor. I wish my camera did good video, I'd hold a pompom over the oil fill hole to show you how much crank case pressure there is. The air forced out is constant, not puffs to indicate one cylinder. I've always had a problem with oil forced into the intake, that is what got me to swap to the aluminum VC. Couple of months ago I installed a new rear main seal and after a couple of days it began to leak, know I know why. I have considerable hearing loss and it's difficult for me to determine the source of noises. I stated that the injector sounded louder than normal, that prompted me to use the poor mans stethoscope method and I still could not find it. So, thinking that I could hear the valve better if I took the oil cap off........wow........I was shocked at the amount of air being forced out. Cruiser, I appreciate the TBI offer but I will need to hold off at the moment as I have bigger fish to fry. From my research last night, the 96+ 2.5s have different rings and pistons. The PO rebuilt a replacement engine and I have no idea what parts he used, without researching the casting numbers.....which would do me no good anyway as he could have used a early block with late rings and pistons.....who knows. But the engine only has 60K miles on it. I found a 97 TJ engine for $200 that I could uses as a core to build a new engine. Kinda looking forward to it.....just don't like being forced to do it. http://www.hesco.us/products/7724/new-products/167924/rvob4-25l-camshaft#.U-IuHv6lW79 You guys trust Hesco RV cams? If not, what about Clifford?

Bad news, excessive blow-by. The new ICM brings my idle down low enough to now notice it's struggle for survival. Hopefully I will get enough miles out of it to save up for a new engine.

No, they won't be the same. Two different ignition systems. Maybe you could post a pic of each and someone here can identify them.

TPS

Vols....... are you in TN? You'll get away with no cat. I had a shop fab me a nice set up for $180 from the cat flange back......down pipe might have cost me another $30 but mine is good. For $210 it ain't worth fabbing an exhaust. Just find a good shop that will give you what you want. Image Not Found

3.07s with 235/75-15 tires is very workable -- it's only one tire size larger than what came stock on most of the late XJs. (Early XJs, even with the 4.0L, mostly had 205/75s or 215/75s.) Where you will be wanting more gear is when you move up to 31" tires. Can you drive on 31s with 3.07 gears? Yes, you can. I currently have the 31s from my '88 MJ on my stock '88 XJ with 3.07s. I can drive it, but it's doggy, and I am pretty well convinced that it actually hurts my fuel economy. I think he's trying to understand the relationship between tire size and gear ratios. Without doing the math........ 3.07 with 235s are the equivalent to 3.55 with 31s or 4.11s with 33s and so on.

Correct and that side is a two piece axle. Some here like'm and say they make a stronger axle. But most are trying to lock them because they do not work. For myself........ I like everything to be clean and purposeful and working and the CAD serves no purpose IMO.

Yes, I have thought about it but I'm too deep into the Renix. The other thing is this is my DD and for me to do anything mechanical it has to be done in one day or I lose money and make my customers unhappy. And family and I like to eat. Sorting through the wiring alone may take a day or two.....or so I suspect.

Only for this baby- :P

OK, :) Move both axles over.......you'll learn in time and new parts will come when the money comes.

There was a seller on Ebay selling a complete throttle body for $250, NOS They are no longer available complete because they sold all the injectors out of them. I was able to find them on the net and I contacted them today. I will need to find a used injector to send to them to be rebuilt and installed in a new TB. They will ship for $200. I used some Rislone injector cleaner and ran about 5 gallons of gas through it today, idle really smoothed out but sill low. I'm pretty certain my problem is with the injector, but If I'm gonna spend the money I'll just replace the whole thing while it's still available.

I would not move a CAD axle. But it were a matter of rolling or not rolling.......... I just swapped over to the 8.25.........4.10 Took a couple months to find it, took a month or so to prep it and locate disc brakes etc........ But I take my time and do my best to go through it and get it right, others just throw stuff together. I would not hesitate with a 4.0 to go with 3.55s......any late model XJ with low miles from the JY.....round here front and rears are $150 and a dime a dozen. And think ahead, you'll eventually want the disc conversion. Image Not Found

Maybe we're all a little slow tonight..........? So, you are asking what gear to use? Yet, apparently, you state that you are swapping a D35 from a 2.5 MJ....correct? Doesn't that automatically answer the question? Or are you contemplating changing the gears out in the D35? If so, don't waste your time and money and effort. If you are keeping the 4.11s that come in the D35 then you will need a D30 from a 2.5 XJ or MJ with XJ being the likely donor as there are more of them. Look for the 94 up axle. I just took my D35 to the scrap yard and I got $18 for it.....that's what it's worth.

I replaced the MAP and poured in some injector cleaner this morning. Idles smoother but still some 'lope' and the sell of unburnt gas at the exhaust. I'm convinced it is the injector.

I responded to his PM and sent him this link. http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jks-front-or-rear-shackle-kit-jks-ogs651.html On the pricey side but these are high quality and no lift. NAPA does sell the bushing for the shackle......but they are a b*@$£ to change.

I love useful and informative posts.

XJs where used for many years are police units, especially in beach communities. I have seen those before. I saw a chrome one on an XJ and I've been keeping an eye out for another.

$99.99 to your door. Image Not Found

Image Not Found I don't know if you can see much in this pic but the injector seems louder than usual and it soaks the throttle plate at low idle.....seem to be around 300-400rpm What are the chances of the injector going out?