lexluthier72

Total quote including the new seal is $125. The only "part" I'm aware of is the new seal which runs $18. To me, this is worth me not having to crawl under the truck and risk it not working correctly when I'm done. (not to mention possible broken parts along the way.) At any rate, I'm not doing it until the 1st of the month. -E.

Hey folks. I thought Id update this. I spoke with the local differential specialty shop (they do almost everyone's rebuilds) and the quoted me an hours labor to change out the pinion seal, and do it correctly (no guess work) Added up all the things I would need to get a hold of to do this (rent an impact wrench, get the seal, new fluid, etc) and it came up to about the same price. I'll be having them do the seal next month. -E.

IF anyone has a part number/brand/source for an actual solid rubber valve cover gasket for this conversion, please add it to the DIY post. (also to satisfy my curiosity) The rubber coated cork seems to do fine, but it would be nice to have an alternative. -E.

Took it on a test run to the grocery store. No leaks. yay me! :clapping:

Yes, I forgot to correct that. It is indeed INCH LBS. :D EDIT: I fixed the original reply to read INCH LBS. Thanks for the heads up!

Ok, so, the plastic cover did not seal at all. (warped) I just finished my valve cover conversion from plastic to an aluminum cover from a 1994 wranger. here are some photos. I did a DIY in the tech section as well.... Removed plastic valve cover.... sizing the gasket (make sure its rubber) Tacked the gasket on with ultra black rtv in the corners (not pictured) Here is the metal cover installed. You can also see the breather hoses re-routed. Whew. Enough for this week.

Thanks Folks for all the help here. I did not have an appropriate torque wrench, so I used the good and tight method, using the head bolt sequence. I posted a DIY on this with some good photos of the breather re-route, and the size hoses/bolts I used. I simply "tacked" the gasket in the corners. So far, so good. I ran in up to operating temp, and watched for leaks the whole time. No leaks! I assume keep an eye on it for a while. -E. p.s.- The gasket choices were pretty slim. I ended up using a felpro "rubber" gasket which is actually rubber coated cork. The only other choice was cork only. :hmm:

OK...Here goes....I found a valve cover from a 1994 Wrangler. Made of aluminum. You need to get the gasket for whatever year valve cover you end up with. The gasket choices are not very abundant. I ended up getting a Felpro "rubber" gasket, which is actually rubber coated cork. (the other choice was cork only) First, remove the plastic cover and clean up the oil on the surface of the head! (using lacquer thinner) Tack the gasket in place in the 4 corners with ultra black RTV. You DO NOT need to lay a bead of rtv on the gasket! Set the gasket on the valve cover, pressing the corners into the rtv. This will hold the gasket on while you get it into position. I then used 1 inch 1/4 20 bolts with 8mm washers (metric washers are smaller OD). Put the valve cover on and into position. Install bolts with washers hand tight using the "head bolt tightening sequence" found in the manual. I did not have an appropriate torque wrench, but the factory spec is 44 INCH LBS. You will then need to re-route the "breather" stuff on the top of the cover. I used 1/2 inch heater hose for the large one, and re-used the hard plastic breather hose, adding on the length I needed. I used 9/32 Vacuum line for the smaller hose, and did away with the small hard plastic hose. You may need to use lubricant on the larger hose to get it to go on. Removed the old POS plastic valve cover.... Lay the new gasket on the new valve cover. (fit on this one is not great?!) Here is the installed metal valve cover. You can see the breather hose set up pretty good.

Thanks!

Bignuke....Did your metal cover have the little "nibs" on the gasket surface to keep from crushing the gasket? When the cover is tightened down should those touch the head? I have not seen the gasket yet, so I do not know how thick it is....? I just do not want to overtighten the bolts, and be in the same boat I am now. (or worse) -E.

Thanks Guys!!! Tomorrow is the big day. :D (gasket arrives)

Hey Jim.... Thanks for the vote of confidence. I have indeed come to that realization that it is a 21 year old truck. Trying to keep a positive attitude when working on it. Sir Sam is right....beer helps (immensly) I appreciate the pep talk. The only real downer to working on it, is money is tight, and its my DD. Back to work. :D p.s.- All the chicks I know dig my jeep. :nuts:

Torque specs?!? OR wing it? (I do have a torque wrench) Ive heard 44 INCH lbs? bump. :D

Thanks. I think I got the sizes figured out. 7/32nds for the small, and 9/16ths for the large. Anyone know how tight to tighten the new VC bolts? Torque wrench? OR not? -E.

BigNuke....Do you know what size hoses to replace the 2 on the top of the cover? I assume vacuum hose works? -Erin

Yep! Its on order!

Hey folks, I also posed this question in the DIY section, but figured more people see it here. I am about to swap my 1990 plastic valve cover for a 94 wrangler aluminum cover. I searched for a DIY write up to no avail. I have a new gasket on order (takes a different gasket, the cover has nubs on the bottom to alleviate crushing the gasket), and I'm going to get new bolts. (shoulder bolts don't fit) I'm aware I have to re-route the "breather" stuff on the top of the valve cover. Any other pointers/tips would be appreciated. I'll try to post in the DIY section when I switch the cover out (waiting on new gasket) -Erin (tired of chasing the leak)

Thunderbear. I feel your frustration. Its been one little thing after another since I purchased my MJ. Id just like to drive it. :D Hang in there man.

Hey folks, Ive surfed through the search feature trying to find this, to no avail. Ive heard several mention they "upgraded" the plastic valve cover to a 91+ model. I picked up a 94 Wrangler 2.5 cover (aluminum) Is the only thing different the gasket? This cover has little nubs by the bolt holes to alleviate crushing the gasket. Any hints/tips on the conversion would be great. I do know I'll have to re-route the breather lines on the top, and get different bolts. Is that it, or am I missing something. -Erin Tired of chasing the leak. :hmm:

found. Mods please delete!

UPDATE: I found a metal cover from a 94 wrangler. It fits size wise, and all the holes line up. It takes a different gasket, apparently they re-designed the 2.5 cover in 94 and added dimples at the bolt holes so you could not over-tighten the bolts. It will take some slight re-work of the vacuum and PCV valve but It should work very nicely. I will be sure to report back after I convert it. I have the gasket on order, and I'll have to find bolts without the shoulders on them.... -E. Thanks for listening to my rant :D

New Cover cracked. Grr.

wow. ok. I'll look into it. I did get a new "used" cover today. Giving it a go tomorrow. Found out the old cover was an aftermarket cover, seeing them side by side, the OEM cover is much more robust, plus, I'm told by the guy I bought it from, it came off his previous engine and did not leak....(IF I can believe it) His old gasket was not covered in oil, so thats a good sign.....The OEM cover I got is not perfectly flat, but its at least in the ballpark, and I don't expect a used cover to be perfect....just not leaky.

Cool. I'll have to check it out, I have one, its about 1/16th thick...possibly the same one? Did you RTV both the head side, and the VC side? -E.

This is good to know. Thunderbear....where did you get your gasket? Brand/Material?