randimal

I think its a standard jeep light blue, but my friend is going to run the VIN today and I'll see what its officially called. It is clean. No rust at all. We don't get much rust around here (Seattle). Very little ice and no salt. Most of our MJs are like that, but they are REALLY hard to find around here.

Thanks. I thought that was how it worked. I was pretty sure the drop bracket would work. I just wasn't sure about the brace.

My XJ has a 6 inch lift using RE drop brackets (they stopped the death wobble). I'd like to move this suspension onto my MJ, but the MJ has a slightly different control arm mount. Is it still possible to use the RE drop brackets? Looks like either I would only use the front half and do a homemade brace, or I would possibly cut off the stock brace on the MJ control arm mount. Maybe then the whole RE assembly would fit. Let me know if you have an answer.

OK, New sig now. I'll have to keep changing it as the parts from the XJ slowly migrate down to the MJ.

I finally got one. I was thinking about waiting until summer, but this one came up and I had the day after Thanksgiving off, so voila. The price was reasonable ($1000). No major issues. 4.0, Auto, LB, no rust, 169k. Its 2wd, but I'm going to use my 4:10 axles from my XJ, 32s, 6inch lift, np242, etc. I won't post it as a project until I actually start doing some work on it.

Yup. It was Yahoo's fault. smaller pic...

Maybe Comcast will work better...

http://us.a2.yahoofs.com/users/0I2xJZG_OBia/__sr_/f632.jpg

http://us.a2.yahoofs.com/users/0I2xJZG_OBia/__sr_/f632.jpg?

testing pictures [img] http://us.a2.yahoofs.com/users/0I2xJZG_OBia/__sr_/f632.jpg? [/img] [/code]

testing pictures

That was my original plan. But I haul a lot, so now I'm looking for a longbed. I still have all my XJ parts to swap. So I'm hoping to build the following. 1990-ish LWB 4.0, AW4, 242, 6 inch lift, 4:10, 32 Goodyear MT.

I've never had a vacuum disconnect, but it seems to me there were a lot of articles on how to make your own manual shifter out of a bicycle brake cable for around 20 bucks. It seemed like a good plan and I know one of my friends did it. Offroad.com had at least one write up on it.

Yeah, I agree. I was going to build some sort of slider into the rear bumper and remove some sheet metal.

I haven't seen anyone mention this, but there is a good way to keep the floors from rusting out. Also good to use after reparing. Husky liners are molded rubber floor mats that are made specifically for each application including XJs and MJs. They are tough AND they go up 2 inches on all sides, so any water from boots and such never makes it to the floorboards. I think they are about 60 bucks a pair. But they are definitely worth it (and I am about as cheap as anyone).

Thanks for the info, guys. Just what I needed. I didn't buy one today, but I looked at two. I think I like the longbeds now. I haul a lot of lumber and dirt and I think I can use the extra space. I figure lifting it 6 inches and building a new rear bumper will solve the approach angle problem.

Hi guys. I'm curious about how much work I'm in for if I decide to put the AW4 from my XJ into an MJ that currently has an AX15. I'd also put in my 242 transfer case and 4:10 axles since the MJ is 2wd. Basically, I want to turn a 2wd manual MJ into a 4wd Auto MJ and I happen to have all the parts. I've swapped axle assemblies and transfer cases before, so that seems pretty simple. I haven't tried changing the transmission, though. I imagine I would have to make sure the holes in the floor fit the new tranny and transfer case. Then bolt in the new tranny, change the computer and wiring. Remove the clutch pedal. I'm not sure what else. I'm just guessing. Sounds like a full weekend with a couple of helpers. Does that sound about right? Is there something horrible I'm missing? I'm kindof in a hurry, cause there's a couple of nice manual commaches in town and I'm tempted to buy one tomorrow. Thanks.

I agree. Start by checking the tires. Then the alignment. Those are the simplest and are often the cause. You may even want to try rotating your front tires to the back.

Third time its been on E-bay. Nice to look at, though.

Or maybe it was 90 degrees. Anyhow, just rotate it.

I can't help you with the crank. I don't have one. But the handle is not too hard. Take out the two long screws on the bottom. Then rotate the whole thing 180 degrees and the upper connection will slide out, its slotted.

I yanked both front and rear 4:10 axles out of donor XJs. I found a yard that had 3 XJs with 4:10s, so I was able to pick and choose. I used my old brakes. Took a long time, but I got solid 4:10s front and rear for $250. That was 6 years ago. No problems yet.

Looks friggin amazing. I wouldn't ever get in your way. At least not in the Sami.... Looks like if you could get some arch in those front springs, you could pull the tires down and back. Save your lights. Maybe just add in a donor leaf (an archy one) and some slightly longer shackles. Thats my usual cheap input. Or you can buy new leaf packs.

The Mustang 5.0 ones are the only ones I've heard of. The HO ones have the wrong rate. I got used ones off ebay. 8 for 15 bucks. Picked up new O-rings at the dealer for a few dollars. They work fine. I can't guarantee anything, but I've heard people say they are good for 3hp or so.

Maybe I'm lucky. I have a radio shack CB, the small one. I just plugged in the red wire to an open spot in the fuse box. It also had an inline fuse. The ground wire went to a scew under the dashboard. I used one of the walmart magnetic antennas hot glued in the center of the fiberglass area in front of the windshield. No engine noise. Never lost the antenna because its only 3 feet long. Range seems OK. Pretty cheap too. $20 for CB, $8 for antenna. Oh yeah, the CB was velcroed on top of the dash. Currently its velcroed in my Samurai.