randimal

I might take a look at the bench. Mine is a little run down.

I'm in Federal Way, WA. Don't wheel the MJ yet as its still 2wd, but I have a Sami I can wheel a bit.

Here's one in my area. http://www.oly4x4.com/

Honestly, if you have a light foot, you could wheel for years on the D35 with 31s. Unless you like spending money, I would recommend leaving it alone for a while.

Carnuck, If you ever interested in spending a day wrenching let me know. I have a million projects I'm working on so I try to do some work each week. I'm in Federal Way, but the guy I usually wrench with works at Town & Country, so I'm in the Seattle area often enough. Currently, I'm trying to relearn welding so I can start on bumpers, sliders and SOA spring perches.

3/4 inch could be easily fixed with an aluminum spacer. You can get them on ebay for 50 bucks a pair.

Thanks, Eagle. I think I will adjust my plan. My leak is in the manifold, so the Pacesetter will go in there. I'll stay with a stock cat and pipe from there back. I'll probably even throw in a muffler since I have one thats not too beat up. Thanks for the info. Twould be nice if someone with dyno/computer type stuff would do some testing. Install some sort of valve in the downpipe that could be easily adjusted. Then test it at different settings. Well, actually, I don't know anything about this kinda testing, but it seems like it should be possible.

I'm curious now. Sounds like several are of the opinion that high flow is not necessarily better. Does this also apply to headers? plus, the stock downtube has a bend in it that is effectively 1.75 diameter and a new header will eliminate this. I need to replace mine because of leaks and I have a pacesetter thats been lying here for years. I was going to put in the header, high flow cat and a few feet of 2.5 inch. However, I may change my plan now depending on how this discussion goes.

Swap Meet Info http://www.moonshinersjeepclub.com/swap ... apmeet.htm Its worth going to. Its like Disneyland for 4x4 enthusiasts. I got a full set of Dueler ATs on Suzuki rims for my Zuk for 50 bucks last year. They have a lot of used stuff as well as Vendors with swap meet discounts. Good discounts for new lockers, tires, gears, batteries, shocks, etc. This year I'm looking for some new thick D44 4:10 gears as well as some spare used parts and maybe an optima knock-off or two. They are usually around 60 bucks.

I had to replace a fuse and then sand clean all the connections on the lights. After that they work fine. I added some nice floor lighting from an XJ as well. Plugs are already under the dash.

Seriously? JB Weld works on exhaust? I've got a pretty nasty manifold leak. Should I slather it on?

If you just turn the steering wheel one way or the other, it will move the body back and forth over the track bar, so the 1/16th shouldn't be an issue. You still need to find a bolt for it, however.

You could be right about the power antenna. The one wire from the harness that I didn't connect was marked as power antenna on the diagram on my radio. But it came straight from the connector, no separate plug and it was grey. But my radio was from a Laredo. Could be that one of the base model radios had a separate plug for power antenna. Doesn't matter to me, though. Don't have a power antenna on the MJ, and I swapped the XJ one to fixed long ago. Anyhow, I got everything hooked up and it works great. Thanks a bunch. Also, I pulled the bezel off my XJ. Also threw in a clock, fog light switch and some other goodies.

I'm putting the stock radio connector thingy back in. The last guy didn't buy an adapter for his radio but instead hacked everything. AM is not working and I think shorts might be draining the battery, so I'm putting an old harness back in. However, the wires are slightly different on my cherokee. Whats this blue wire with a plug? I'm guessing its ground, but on the cherokee its a black wire with a standard slide-on terminal connector so I want to make sure.

I've heard that a trussed 30 can handle almost anything. I know that a lot of Jeepspeed folks use them. I know another guy who kept blowing front lockers until he trussed his 30. Never had a problem again and ran 35s.

I have one inch spacers on my Zuk. No problems. Definitely check ebay. I got my whole set for under $100. Some of them were over $400. Good quality too.

I'm impressed. I ordered the left front assembly (the one with the valve cover elbow) from Rock Auto on Monday morning. It came Tuesday afternoon. Thats the fastest I've ever got a part. And it was 15 bucks instead of 36 at the dealer. Definitely a good company. Part fit perfect.

I ordered the one from Rock Auto. Really good prices. It was 15 instead of 36 at the dealer. In the meantime, I built a temporary fix with a grommet, elbow and some rubber pipe. That was 7 bucks. Doesn't look half bad.

I cleaned out my valve cover today. It was cleaner inside than I expected, I think the oil detergent I added work OK. Putting it back on was problematic. Couldn't get it to fit around the radiator tube and actually knocked the hose off, getting coolant on the valves. So I guess I'll be changing the oil a couple times tomorrow. And of course, pulling off the rubber elbow on the front CCV tube destroyed it. Its almost 40 dollars for that whole piece. I'm going to fab something up instead. Wondering what you guys have used and if you have any pictures. There's a grommet at the auto parts store that I've used on the XJ with a breather filter, but its soft rubber and disintigrates after about a year. I'm hoping to find a better solution. Thanks.

Thats cool. I didn't know if design III worked. Sounds like they do.

I sealed the side vents on both sides with silicone. On the passenger side, it stopped leaking. Still leaking on the driver side. At least I'm halfway there. I'm going to try readjusting the drivers side door this weekend. It doesn't quite fit right which may let in some water. I'll test the back window as well.

I knew it was big, but I didn't know people came from Oregon. I'll be there too. Never miss it. Then again its only 20 minutes away for me.

What swap meet do you go to? The one up here?

Yup. Them's the ones.

As I'm taking stuff off my XJ and adding to the MJ, I thought it might be nice to install the rear hatch struts under the MJ hood, so it would hold itself up. Concept seems pretty simple, but looking at the struts on the XJ, I'm not at all sure how they attach on either end. They have little steel cones sticking out of the sheet metal with ball joints on the top. I don't see any way to take them off. Anyone know how to remove these? Might be better to use an aftermarket strut from another type of vehicle. Any ideas?