Cajun

Just replaced my carpet and used good, old-fashioned jute. It is still around and works on every vehicle I know. Deadens the sound quite well. Ya just gotta keep the water out......

Thanks, guys. I was able to install the new exhaust manifold without completely taking the intake manifold out. I had a neighbor hold the intake out of the way and I pushed the new exhaust through from underneath. The lower bolts were a pain, but patience prevailed.....I did have to remove the front driveshaft and some vacuum lines, but overall it was not that bad. Thanks again.....Cajun

When you say "lower bolts", do you mean the two on each end of the header? If so, yea, you are right on with that. I didn't think about jacking it up. That's a good idea. I only have a 2 1/2" lift. How difficult is it to change the header/intake gasket? I don't need to pull the intake too far away from the head, do I?

OK, people. I'm tired of the exhaust leak and will attempt to change my header. I have a '92 long bed Comanche. What are the best steps (in order) to make it as painless as possible? Is it best to go from underneath? It appears that front driveshaft and upper control arm have to come off, along with pipe going to the cat. I can support the manifold. Any suggestions?

I agree with Eagle but it also helps to adjust the door post striker to make the door close as it should. Hinge adjustment can be tricky and it is very time consuming....Cajun

Don't forget to check play on your (two piece) front driveshaft too....

Anyone know where I can get a "new" set of tan or black armrests. My driver's side split. Please don't say junkyard. -Cajun

Look at the hose that runs up to the chassis by the sensing rod. It has a polymer connection point by the axle tube. That was where mine was leaking. Also if you notice, the brake line connection point is covered in oil. My guess would be the connector. I just changed my gasket on my D44 and that was where I saw fresh oil. When that rear end heats up, that oil gets thinner and finds places to come out. Clean off both sides of the axle with a wire brush, then spray it down. I think you will see what I mean

I have the same problem. The driver's side only...I have not tended to it just yet cuz I am changing bushings, but I will work on it this week. I am sure the door is out of adjustment a bit, but I know it's more than that. Let me know if you figure it out. Did you notice the drain hole under the chassis that is by the driver's door? I am wondering if that comes into play when I go thru alot of water....

I agree with the light bulb sockets....also check the fuse box to make sure no wires or the harness is grounding out (I had that problem a while back). Have you checked the main box under the hood too? I also would make sure the right bulbs are in the right sockets and that no exterior wires are grounding out.....

HEY!....Where did you get that front bumper in the "...for this one" photo. That is a great design....I would like to get one.....Cajun

My '92 long bed (built 09-91) has a factory 44.....Cajun

Sweet...so the belt size remains the same, I assume. Thanks.....Cajun

lol....sorry, I was posting info.... The build date is 9-91...

Has anyone ever removed the A/C condenser and re-routed the belt? My A/C is done, and I disconnected (via Sawzall) the refrigerant lines and electrical, leaving the non-op condenser. I would like to eliminate the hollow condenser all together, but don't know if a different pulley needs to be installed in it's place or the belt re-routed. Any ideas? It's a '92 4WD 242ci with a 5-speed....

The rear shackles/leaf spring bushings on my '92 long bed truck are what I thought: The front leaf spring bushings are Moog SB371's. The rear leaf spring bushings are Moog SB372's (the bushing on the bottom of the shackle). A C-clamp and a BFH were used to change them out and to install the new ones. The upper bushing on the shackle is smaller and appears to be a Moog bushing, but I could not locate any info on the size, so I ordered two new JKS boomerang shackles (Part #OGS651, $110.00).....

I REPLACED MY TWO DOME LIGHTS WITH TWO FROM A BRONCO II. THEY LOOK NICER AND HAVE A SWITCH THAT YOU CAN CONTROL LIKE THE FACTORYS. I USED THE LED's AND THEY ARE BRIGHTER AND DON'T DRAIN THE BATTERY WHEN WORKING ON THE TRUCK. YOU SHOULD CONSIDER IT....CAJUN

I WOULD HESITATE ON CUTTING THE METAL. I MOUNTED A FOG LIGHT ON TO THE BED AND REVERSED IT WHERE IT WAS HIDDEN IN THE CORNER. WIRE WAS EASY TO RUN TO THE BATTERY AND GROUND, AND I PUT A PUSH/PULL SWITCH ON THE LOWER PART OF THE DASH. IT WORKS JUST FINE AND YOU KEEP THE INTEGRITY OF THE CAB. IT'S A CHEAP SETUP...-CAJUN

HELLO... JUST JOINED UP. HAVE A 92 LONG BED 4X4 WITH THE 4.0. I LOVE MY TRUCK MORE THAN MY RUBICON.....HAVE A QUESTION FOR EVERYONE: I AM CHANGING THE BUSHINGS ON THE REAR LEAF SPRINGS. THE FRONT BUSHINGS ARE THE MOOG SB371's I BELIEVE, BUT IT APPEARS THAT THE REAR SHACKLES HAVE TWO DIFFERENT SIZES FOR TOP AND BOTTOM. AM I RIGHT? I BELIEVE THAT THE MOOG SB372's FIT, BUT I AM NOT SURE. ANY INFO WOULD BE HELPFUL......CAJUN