hgeranium

Perfect. I imagine the port is pretty standard with other American manufacturers so I don’t see a reason why not that FP tester wouldn’t work.

That might’ve been one of the worst first halves in A&M history but you can’t deny scoring a 27 point shut out in the latter half despite that is pretty impressive. I knew that South Carolina was going to be a trap game like that but I’m happy we pulled it off

I don’t think y’all have any problems this evening. I’ll be watching the game

What style fitting on a fuel pressure tester do I need to fit on a renix fuel rail schrader valve? I’m looking at buying this one from harbor freight, says it has a fitting for ford and GM style. I see a review of someone that used it for a 4.0 XJ but I wanted to confirm just in case the renix valve is different than HO/facelift.

If it was the brake booster, then you’d typically see it when you press on the brake. The brakes would be very soft or not work at all; you’ll know for sure if it was at the booster. There’s a cruiser54 tip for checking exhaust restriction here You could try to bypass the EGR to see if it runs better. All you need to do is cap off the lines at the EGR valve, air box (if you still have the original one; my renix has an HO box without the vacuum ports) and the vac fitting on the intake manifold. I have a c shaped hose connecting the two ports but you can also just cap those off individually. If it runs better than you can go about fixing up the EGR/replacing the cat to pass emissions.

That sounds like a nightmare lol. How many miles per "tank" were you getting from that?

Lucky man

I've had bad IACs out of the box. 2/3 of the new ones I've bought have been like that. Manifold gasket could always be a culprit. If you haven't tried, tighten the bolts. What do you have? 2.5? 4.0? Renix or HO? Your course of action can change based on this. Is your EGR hooked up or plugged correctly? I had a similar high idle issue and something that seems to have helped fix it was a new EGR gasket. Mine was totally toast. If you have a renix, the MAP to TB vacuum line is especially important. Cruiser54 has a tip to improve it. Also worth checking your throttle body gasket and also making sure the throttle plate isn't getting physically stuck by debris. I would take the TB off, clean it, and replace the gasket. Especially clean the IAC port. Just a few starting points, I'm sure others will have much more to say. Good luck!

Neat! Cheap assembly with a good pump I'm assuming? Worst case scenario that's what I'll end up doing; at least temporarily.

I’m really hoping that MTS is pretty expedient around the new year. The guy on the phone seemed pretty sure that it would be around January time that the new design would come out. I wonder how many CC members are on that waiting list lol

It’s pretty wild that those adapters are comparatively worth an extra $30. But for peace of mind it’s worth it.

this is the one I ordered. Good idea to cancel and order that other one? I don’t see a couple of things in the pic compared to the first one. It was about a $30 difference.

Might be a good idea to throw in a new strainer while I'm at it, huh?

Good to know. Not sure where I heard the thing about taking the bed off, maybe I got taking the tank off to remove the bed switched. And that is GREAT that I don't need to drop the tank. I found an even better deal on the Bosch. $40. Come Thanksgiving I'll throw the Bosch pump in, new fuel filter, and hopefully fix the oil issue with the VCG and PCV grommet. Thank you so much!

I may not have a choice other than to take my chance with a chineseum sending unit with the bosch pump. If I'm installing a ter Option 1 Option 2 Option 3 Option 4 They all look equally sketchy so I may just get the cheapest one since I'm going to install that MTS unit at the turn of the new year anyways.

Already done!

Bad news. Just called them and they're backordered til after the new year. Something about re-engineering the part. They're just getting names and numbers for when the part is available.

Ok cool so that one should work. And I found one on ebay for $72. If I'm doing this job it's getting done right. Actually doing the job is another thing I wanted to pick your brain about. The truck has about half a tank of gas. I feel like I read somewhere that it's easier to pull the bed rather than the tank because there's more things you have to remove to get enough clearance for the tank to drop. If I'm totally wrong then I'm all ears. I want to make this as easy on myself as possible.

"1986-1990 Jeep Comanche MJ 18 & 23.5-Gal. "Side Mounted" fuel tank sending unit with the 4.0L I6 fuel injected engine. This unit includes the in-tank fuel pump. Includes new lock ring, gasket and an in-tank fuel filter. " I'm only seeing options for an 18 and a 23.5gal size, but mine is a 16 gallon. Is this just an error of the listing or do they not have the one that I need? And would you recommend just getting a bosch pump out the gate and order the assembly that does NOT come with a pump? EDIT: Doing some research and apparently the short beds ALL came with an 18 gallon tank? It sure doesn't seem like it. I usually get about 10 miles a gallon and get about 160 miles of range. It starts dying on me if I let it get to about 145-150 miles. Unless the tank was replaced with a smaller one but I doubt it. (per Pete: )

The truck is in San Antonio, but I'm in College Station 'til Thanksgiving sadly. I greatly appreciate the offer though

I’m going to preemptively order some parts for when I’m back with the jeep on thanksgiving. Even if it isn’t the issue I want to replace the fuel pump and assembly so I know it’s good. That’s one of the few things that I haven’t replaced on the truck. I wouldn’t be surprised if my tank was absolutely varnished to hell with how horribly my fuel filter failed a few months ago. Any recommendations on a quality assembly? I’m seeing a Delphi that looks decent. So far, I’m going to order a new fuel filter, fuel pump assembly, valve cover gasket, and PCV grommet while I’m there.

Any clue about what pressure I should be looking for? I’m thinking I drive it around somehow with the gauge hooked up, then look for a FP drop when it bogs down like that. Unless I should see a pretty big discrepancy on the gauge even at warm idle.

The latter. A very fine mist. This was on the side of the highway and I was desperate for clues.

The oil spray had gotten significantly worse on that road trip. It was dripping tons of oil which it never did before. All my stuff on the distributor side got a nice little film of oil on it. Ignition wires, dizzy cap, coolant bottle, vacuum canister etc. The firewall behind the VC is completely black now too. Could the VC have just catastrophically failed suddenly like that?

Done ~10,000 miles ago about 10/2022. In hindsight I definitely didn’t do the correct tightening order. VC is bone dry up front but still leaked from the back. Yall think the oil could be a red herring for the FP issue? Also how could I go about testing the pump (without taking the bed off/dropping tank and other than getting that FP ground). Fuel pressure looked good from the schrader valve if that matters.