Naterenfo1

If its a manual transmission then fuse panel could be shot. Otherwise check the ground behind the dash that is on the bottom of drivers side by the vents near your shin area.

If it has a speaker bar I would take that too. Maybe headliner? I'll buy that from you if its decent

Still got my original 86 :cheers:

I was actually considering doing a hand throttle also, I talked to a former CC member about how he did it in his MJ, and he ended up using a bicycle gear selector that he wrapped down his shifter, through the shifter boot, underneath the transmission tunnel, all the way up to the throttle, Where he used a machine screw, bolt, and a couple washers to hold it on. He said he really really liked it alot, I will see if I can get a couple pictures from him. He put the throttle on the actual shifter, so he could change settings on the fly if needed. Hope that helps a little bit for ideas! -Nate EDIT: Just read your link above :doh: well, I guess here's proof that it works! :clapping:

You should have about an inch or so of clutch pedal free play, this allows the system to either fully engage, or disengage, and won't accidentally disengage the clutch if you bump it with your foot. It also saves your throwout bearing a whole lot of stress by having a little free play. That way its not constantly spinning the bearing with a load on it.

Looks cleaner than a new JK right off the line! :cheers: I really like the color choice! works insanely well with the rim/tire combo!

Well folks, this past weekend I had the wonderful pleasure of taking the dash out of the commander! I can honestly say it really was not as stressful as I had imagined it to be, or as hard as I thought. The hardest part of the whole ordeal is the disconnection of the speedometer cable! that sucker was hard to get at! theres a small clip that holds to the base of the speedo cable, and to get at it, you need 3 arms, a flashlight, a pliers and a screwdriver and a hell of a lot of luck to get it un clipped. I got it un clipped and removed and the dash came out with relative ease. Why did I remove my dash? So I could check for more "presents" left by mice, to check my electrical connections, and to remove excess connectors (to help prevent under dash fires) before any work was done, took a quick shot! :D Well, my wiper module can use replacing... look at those yummy toasty wires :fs1: :fs1: Dash on its way out! have to pop off those stupid plastic clips at this point... :rant: I actually didnt end up breaking any of them! I guess I'm just a champ! P.S. It was much easier with the steering column dropped down! :wrench: another quick shot after the dash was out! Me and my friend who were working on my MJ took her for a quick spin with no dash! this ride is a panty dropper for sure! and... last but not least, the fuse panel I will be using to replace mine with. Got that out of a 94 automatic XJ, I bought it just in case mine is bad, which I believe mine to be. I do get 12 volts at every fuse on at least one side, but I get a reading of .9ish-1.6ish volts on the opposing side, so I believe some stray voltage is leaking through the brake fluid to the other connections. I can't think of any other reason why NOTHING works in this MJ (Electrically) so the fuse panel is going to get swapped, and possibly relocated to the glove box depending on how I feel that day. My grounds were all good, but I think i'm missing my chime module? and I read somewhere that if your missing your chime module some funky stuff happens? can anyone verify this? thats my updates! look for more after this extended holiday weekend! Have a happy Independence Day America!!! -Nate

Anyone know of a good write up for a fuse panel replacement? I bought a new fuse panel from an automatic xj but I for sure can not see how its plug and play.... On the engine side, I understand, but not for the interior.... Also, anyone got a picture of the chime module?

hmmm.... I didn't ever have a problem with my Napa external slave on my ax-15... I have a 2.8L but mine had a bleeder screw on the top back, right by where the hydraulic line connects. I would just crack the line at the slave. Start engine, pump clutch 5 times and hold, crack the line at the slave cylinder, re tighten, then pump the clutch again 5 times. Repeat as necessary. Or, if its not a DD, you can just crack the line at the slave, and let her sit with a drain pan underneath for a week or so, making sure there is still fluid in the reservoir, and just let the fluid drain itself out. Hope this helps! -Nate

You have the hands of a surgeon! those cuts look perfectly straight! :eek:

Your switch isnt drawing any amperage, its just a method of completing a circuit. You have a short in your system, and you did exactly what you should not have done... replaced a fuse with larger fuse :roll: . I assume when you put the piece of metal back in you shorted out the circuit on accident. Start by taking that piece of metal back out, going back to a 20 amp fuse, replacing the switch, and go from there. Also look at the wires connected to that bulb and see if they look squiggly. if they look squiggly they are burnt, and could have an internal open from the wires toasting- generally wires connected to running lights/blinkers aren't rated for very much amperage, but you could have gotten lucky and they might still be able to be used! :brows: anyway, hopefully that helps at least get the tail lights working in your truck again, good luck! -Nate

You read it right! I need any window cranks I can get my hands on, but most desirable would be maroon interior or black interior colors. I also need: wiper module (mine is toasted) a mech. fuel pump for a 2.8L Drop pitman arm Stock XJ seats Steering stabilizer (more to come) shipping is 55113, let me know what you have! thanks! :D -Nate

I agree- Looks like a d35 to me

Four Wheeler magazine actually wrote an article about this album, and gave it a big huge thumbs up for offroading :thumbsup: I'm glad you posted this because I kept on thinking it was called Black Bear Creek and I couldn't find it!

I love the truck! its awesome! But those rims and tires are killing it for me. Got any direction your looking to go with 33's? I would recommend a set of 33x12.50 BFGoodrich All Terrain T/A KO's, I absolutely love mine to death! excellent wear!

any Ke$ha lovers out there? :D

What brand lift is that? Looking good! :brows:

This just popped in my head, now I am curious what everyone listens to! I myself listen to country when I'm out and about. A recent favorite song of mine is "Take A Back Road" By Rodney Atkins, other than that, my previous favorite was "Eight Second Ride" By Jake Owens. your turn Comanche Club! What do you jam to?

If I remember correctly, it takes 4 bolts and nuts to hold it in, the top two are darn close to 3.5" long, and the bottom ones should be M10x25 about an 1-1/2" long (I think thats a real bolt measurement...? lol) Hopefully that helps! Take a look at the front of the bell housing, you will be able to see the flywheel and thats where it goes, right on the front of the bellhousing. shouldnt have to undo/remove anything except the starter, which is 2 (18mm head) bolts. this was on my 2.8L, could be different for a 2.5. Good luck!

Me likey! I hope my MJ turns out this cool!

I had a similiar issue with my starter several times. Could be the relay that is next to the battery (Mine is... IFFY...) but when I had the issue, I simply took off the 2 bolts holding the starter on (loosen them at least) wiggle around the starter back and forth, up and down, left and right, then re bolt back into a relatively parallel to the engine, and tighten the 2 bolts. This worked on my truck for whatever reason, hopefully it works for you two! but based on the fact that you got a little "buzzz" when you turned the key, I want to say that when the solenoid activated, it pushed the teeth of the gear on the starter against the teeth of the flywheel, rather than into the teeth of the flywheel. Just a buckshot guess. Good luck! -Nate

Well, I had a somewhat build page that I posted a ton of questions in, a long time ago in the Tech section, so now its time for a real build page! About me: My name is Nate. I am from Central MN, and I am an off-road addict. I am currently a student at Alexandria Technical College for Diesel Mechanics. When I'm not in school, I work at Mills Fleet Farm, and I also work for Ziegler Caterpillar as a Power Generation Mechanic. I bought my Comanche in August of 2010 to use as a project vehicle during school, and to turn into my first 4x4 off-roader :D. The Plan: Build for trail rides, with plenty of Mud capability, and ability to cross corn fields with ease. 4-6" of total lift Upgraded rear axle (dana44, chrysler 8.25, ford 8.8) Locker for the Rear axle Would like to fit 33"s comfortably Install Floors Bucket Seats 2 speed transfer case Get all vital electronics functioning again (headlights, taillights, blinkers, windshield wipers, defrosters) Removable doors Get radio to work! Overall daily driver-ability (I have pretty low standards) If I can make it look like this, I will be the happiest man on earth... On to the Comanche! My Comanche is a 1986 long wheel base 4x4 model, it has a 2.8L GM V6 engine, a 5 Speed (AX-15, I do believe), Dana 30 up front, Dana 35 out back, and 4.10 gears. It also has a single speed NP207 transfer case. It used to look like this! This picture does it a TON of justice. It looked like complete crap in real life. Now the Minnesotan Redneck within me convinced me to do this! Typical floor rust..... :( I felt a little creative one day, and decided to make my own light bar. 5$ and a short trip to the junkyard later, I drove home with a 95 ford explorer sport rack, modified it with my good ol' friend Dr. Dremel and made it look like this! I also pulled out the blower motor, because my heater was the only electronic thing that worked in this bad boy. It was making a noise equivalent of nails on a chalkboard. I was curious, and had tools handy, so I got a little crazy. This is also the most probable cause of the nasty dead mouse smell in my MJ, and electrical issues looks like the dash will be coming apart! Found a useful write-up on the CC about replacing wiper bushings, so I used that to find my wiper motor, and apply voltage to be sure it was working. Yep, she works! My good friend Neohic (a fellow user on Comanche Club) built this spectacular custom bumper for me out of an M beam, and some 1/4" cold rolled steel! Its way better than I could have possibly asked for, and I cannot thank him enough! He also gave me a replacement blower motor for my little mouse issue, and I absolutely could not be more thankful. He has helped tremendously in my MJ build and I truly Appreciate it! I Picked up a Brush Guard from the local JY for $50, and it just needs a bit of modification to fit the new bumper, but she will go on soon!! :wrench: I also have a roll bar, that I got from craigslist for a grand total of $50, meant for a Ford Ranger, but she lines up PERFECT in the MJ! No pics of it on the MJ yet, but soon to come! This is my 98 2wd Ranger w/ 4.0v6 auto tranny with the roll bar mocked up the tires and wheels on the ranger belong to the MJ, I just needed the extra traction this winter in my open Dif. Ranger. Progress will be made very quickly on this little bugger, now that I have a job that pays reasonably! I'm looking to get a 6" lift this friday if my funds will allow me to! actually from an old user on CC that goes by 1sickMJ! :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: :USAflag: Stay Tuned folks! Thanks for reading!! JEEP ON

Theres something about chrome and black that just always gets to me.... :drool: "nuff said

You sir, have a nice camera! and Welcome! -Nate

Those rims are looking really nice! What are they? American Racing rims of some sort? or Mickey Thompson classic II's?