skidoo_j

yes please. It will just reduce the time to fab them as i cannot locate a set.

Dimensions would also be helpful if i can't located a set as i might be able to fab a set.

I'm looking to purchase a set of these as the gentleman i bought my bar from pulled it with out the tie-in brackets before it was crushed. Any help in locating a set I'd appreciate it.

I purchased a roll bar and he didn't pull the frame tie in brackets or the backer plate when he removed it from the truck. I am looking to purchase these brackets... I have finally purchased a set from a fellow member. THank you very much.

Has the rear settled any? Was there a huge difference in the ride of the truck? Were your old springs the metric ton too?

The speaker bracket has same Overall length of stock, however the deep lip is bent in so the mounting surface could be larger.. It is wider to fit the larger speaker. If you can find metal stock that already has a corner lip for the entire length it made a huge difference in rigidity. I referenced viewtopic.php?f=2&t=29058&p=292636&hilit=then+starting+from+the+rear+speaker+then+starting+from+the+#p292636 I neglected to take a picture of the brackets installed and painted, but they looked damn good IMO and fit behind the stock grill :)

I recently felt my foot falling lower in the floor, so i pulled the carpet rubber and Rot... I however didnt want to spend monies on new floor board halves. I cut up some sheet metal for replacement and beat it to fit. I made custom rear speaker brackets to fit on OEM take 4x8 kicker speakers and not require destruction of oem grill. Here are some pictures of my project... I used the rustoleum truck bed liner.. I used Just shy of an entire gallon in just the cab giving it about 4 coats total. the first was very thin. I learned on the third coat that you should have the gallons shaken at the local paint shop as just stirring it did not mix it well enough.. so my third and forth coats were grittier than the first.. Overall it looks good, but is still curing. It seems although it's dry to touch even laying a screwdriver down on it for 5 minutes still leaves a mark. rough sand blasting on passenger side sanded repaired and primed second coat 4th coat speaker bracket

I finally found some mass produced rear parking brake cables that are 10" longer then stock and require no modifications at all. They even have near the same through meaning the housing and the OAL are both approx 10" longer than stock. This took almost 6 hours of book work and looking at pictures. Hoping to save others some time as none of my local parts stores would even try for me, they just gave me the book stating they're all vehicle specific. Worked great on my SOA conversion with the dana 44. They weren't the cheapest lines, however i feel much better spending a little extra than to lower the bracket. Plus my others were original and plenty rusty. Dorman Part c93113. They use a c-clip at the bed attachment, but lock solid... length comparison installed box

http://medford.craigslist.org/cto/2653674507.html

Turns out it was the tires. Les Schwab refused to warranty them. They had 75% tread, but because i had removed the studs myself and used them off road no warranty. They ran them on the "road force" and found 3 of the tires to be over double the allowable threshold from being out of round. Since I purchased some goodyear Duratrac 31x10.5x15 I love them. 0-85 not a problem yet and almost 5k on them.

Found my term clarification https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html

You guys are referencing 4" backset do you mean 4" BackSpacing??? I'm looking at wheels on tire rack and they show backset as like -19mm with 3.74" backspacing etc. Just trying to clarify terms thanks. How did those spacers work out for you Drase?

pics of the rear studs before after. with dorman 610-290 Wheel Stud Thread Size 1/2-20 in. RH Knurl Diameter (in.) 0.619 in. Underhead Length (in) 0.593 in. Overall Length (in) 2.188 in. I cut off the 3/16 starter tip so the stock lugs wouldn't top out in the acorn if i ran stock steelies again. originals new:

looks like i may run metric on the front as there ar 4 .630 studs in metric :) gonna go to napa tomorrow to get them pulled and see. which i'd thought to go to metric prior to pulling in standard in the rear otherwise i would have made them match but having good thread contact is more important to me than having matching lugs

Those are the OEM replacment crown part number... I need them to be longer.... looking for atleast 1/4" longer for front studs... i found rears already from dorman

Found a few wheels stud vendors for the front but they do not have shoulders. http://www.altra9.com.au/altra_9_axle_components.html would be convertign the front studs to metric moroso makes some but the knurl size is too small

I've got that on the rear now :) still need help on the front. anyone know part numbers for longer front studs or vendors other than dorman or belknap (napa dorman) already checked arp, jegs, summit

but what did you use for the front????? did you drill out and go to a bigger knurl? I've been to every parts store, problems is they are all dorman and dorman only makes one stud in .630... next stud that is longer than stock is .667..... did you use that or ?????

Closest fit for front dana 30 i've found Dorman 610-287 Thread Knurl Dia. Length Shoulder 1/2"-20 .667" 1-29/32" 25/32" stock is : 610-256 Thread Knurl Dia. Length Shoulder 1/2"-20 .630" 1-3/4" 3/4" It means i'd have to drill out the axel plates to gain only 1/8" of threads, the 1/32nd larger shoulder is negligible. I'm i'm not sure if its worth it though. Right now with my aluminum wheels on the front studs i have about 3/8" of thread in the lug nut. I'd like 1/2" minimum in the front esp on hot days. anyone found any longer studs that worked???

I just pulled Dorman 610-290 into my d44. They've got about 1/4" tip that I'll cut off so the acorn nuts don't top out. But I'm very happy. The shoulder is a bit taller so the drum actuall centers on the shoulder and doesnt shift back and forth hitting the threads. Still looking for the studs for the front dana 30 that are longer, but the knurl diameter is very odd. cannot find a combo that works out. any help there would be appreciated. Anyways here's some pics of the old stud next to the new. I will definitly have enought stud to hold on the alluminum wheels.

After throwing a 1.5 oz weight on a weekend wheeling trip and experiencing death wobble on the way home I stoped by and picked up 16 oz of .3g airsoft bb's. I has the wheels balanced first then broke the bead and poured 8 oz in each of the fron two tires. Have i noticed a difference, acually yes. It seems the front experiences less road vibrations. Although it could be a placebo effect. I guess i will really be able to tell when i throw another weight. Oh I do notice i can hear and ever faint rain when i slow at abotu 5mph as they drop on the wheel. After a 300 mile trip comming up will post a review.

I'm picking it up this weekend. He states its for a short bed. Said he pulled it from a short bed. we'll see.

Anyone have the part numbers for longer rear brake cables??? Looking for about 6-8" longer than stock. When doing the 44 conversion and SOA the cables work but are routed horribly.

So I have adjustable lower control amrs, Had the "professionals" check the castor as I set the length based on 4.5" of lift. Had them set the Toe etc. However I had DW no more than 2 miles down the road. I had since corrected the DW for almost 9 months replacign ball joints tierods, bushings etc and setting toe myself. Driving almost 4k with out issues at speeds upto 85mph and 70 mph maintained for hundreds of miles. What brought DW back was i went off roading and knocked 1.5 oz off the passenger wheel and messed up the toe. I just felt it was too touchy so i purchased a digital angle finder, zero'd to the ground and put it on the top of the ball joint and found my caster angle to be positive 9.5. which seemed high. So looking at it it appears my Lower control arms are too long, but i set them to length based on a 4.5" lift Hence begining to question the total resulting lift. I'm thinking now i need to get adjustable uppers and make them a touch longer and shorten the lowers. i've read center wheel to top fender stock 17.5 front and 19.5 rear so 2" but that's not the rake to me as the fender well in the rear itself is taller. I'm looking at the forward slope of the bed. if you look at the second photo the truck looks like a dragster. So what degree i guess would the slope of the bed be?

Did the truck have 1.5" rake stock? That would account for my ffront lift appearing to be so much greater when leveling the truck. Or is the rear lift measurement thrown out of perspective because it's now SOA?