JIMMYRIG

Now that you mention it, I looked closely at all the options and they're all for the rear corner window. I didn't even look that hard when I searched I just saw prices and immediately closed out tabs haha At this point I might just urethane the windows and never open them again. I've never seen the solid windows at any junkyard

I need the corner windows that do not open (not the wing style). Wings leak too much and seals are crazy expensive

Ok, phew! Thanks. So is there any negative to leaving the line unplugged that way the part time light actually still reflects t-case engagment. And is there a safe way to test that the front axle is engaging properly without jacking up the front wheels?

I have dana 30 with cad delete and i believe an np231 transfer case in my 89. I used to be able to engage/disengage 4x4 and the part time light would correctly reflect that. After engaging last night its now stuck on. Its the first time I engaged since plugging vacuum lines. Would the lines have any affect on the switch? Or could it just be a stuck switch or wiring gremlins?

Also this cover doesn't have the bracket for the center console to mount to

Ok that was my question - if the OE boot was still made. Thanks

Found this on FB. Looks pretty similar to what I had. I have a BA10/5 but boot looks the same. I have run a leather boot before but but lately I've been trying to keep everything looking factory

I bet I could cut some sheet metal up to do the same but I still feel like there's got to be a factory inner boot for the 84-96 years of Cherokee out there somewhere. It looks pretty similar to the TJ boot but just isn't ribbed. The ribs are what's giving me an issue - it makes it way too stiff. Without that inner boot it shifts so much easier and stays in gear. When I first installed the 97-01 inner boot it would sometimes even kick out of 3rd, even when I was up in the 3-4k rpm range. Def not good for the trans

In need of burgundy interior - I have seats and door cards from a 89 Cherokee Laredo, I just need everything else to match

I’ll add some pictures soon. They’re in pretty good shape, the drivers side is starting to tear on the side right next to the lever to adjust the backrest angle and the passenger has a scuff on the corner of the headrest. $150 Located in Bay Area, CA. I frequently travel from the bay to Lake Tahoe so can meet anywhere along the way. I can also cut the bench seat brackets off upon request. Shoot me an offer!

My experience with the Quadratec part listed above for the 97-01 is that it’s quite stiff and rubs up against the mount for the center console which makes it really hard to get into reverse. Once I’m in reverse I have to hold the shifter in place firmly otherwise it grinds and kicks out of gear. The factory inner boot had the same footprint but wasn’t ribbed. I see one from oreilly with no screws - not sure how this works but I am in need of a new, new boot. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-oe-solutions/dorman-oe-solutions-transmission-shift-tower-boot/doe0/926136

Yeah I saw this, I already spent 50 dollars on a tube of urethane and want to make use of it before spending more money on a gasket. It also appears there are holes in the connector that would not be sealed by a gasket

For those who have used sealers in caulk gun form, where are you applying sealer? I sealed from the cab side with urethane, then installed the fuse box and applied more on the engine side before bolting in the bulk head and it still leaks

That's huge, thank you. I spent 50 bucks on a tube of urethane and globbed it all over the inside and outside of bulk head. Well see how it goes, if it doesn't work ill try this.

What would you recommend using to seal it? I've gotten pretty used to pulling the fuze box apart so shouldn't be that bad. Maybe a diy weather strip cutout?

Ok. Anyone got ideas for waterproofing the fuse box? I think it will be easier to seal the firewall at the fuse connector than preventing water from inevitably entering the engine bay

Is it imperative for me to por the floor after I grind rust off if I’m going to sound deaden anyways (and of course fix the leak)?

I'm getting a leak in the cab only on the drivers side floor. It's a relatively slow drip coming off of the abs control unit. I traced it to the cowl and only once I removed the entire wiper motor and linkage I noticed an open spot weld that was sipping water when rain would get in the cowl. So check for those I guess... or maybe it's just me Also I happened to be removing my vinyl floor and had planned to get sound deadening and carpet in but discovered that the drivers side floor pan is covered in surface rust and my current fiber insulation is SOAKED. The nice thing (if you want to call it that) is that rust leaves a trail. It leads to the fuse box/clutch master area. I poured water from the other side of the firewall directly onto the master and fuze area and sure enough it came pouring into the cab. I'll do some more testing to see if it comes through with the hood down to see if it leaks through the cowl itself or the cowl/hood seal and give you guys an update; however, I think it's more likely it's been soaked the few times I've pressure washed my engine bay. I guess thats what I get. Fun stuff!

So just pulled the booster line while it was idling high and plugged it - no difference. I’ll look into manifold next

Ok I'll try that. I was messing around and found out if I pump the pedal quickly I can get idle to rise which I would assume wouldn't happen with any vacuum leak

As far as I know the dual diaphragm swap is common, it was doing good for a while but as of late I've been noticing that noise when depress the pedal. I can't say for sure if that's related to my vacuum whine and high idle (which is definitely affecting performance). There's no vacuum leak to the line going to the booster. I'll also probly just go ahead and replace the manifold gasket, it couldn't hurt.

Also Ill confirm its a picknpull booster from a 97+

Sounds good, you've been very informative. Thank you. I'll cap the EGR and see how it runs. I do get a little bit of a whine when I press and release the pedal. It's not quite the same volume or tone and doesn't affect idle but could that be a sign of a bad booster too?

Its a 4.0 Renix. The EGR could be bad. The truck does not pass smog - numbers point EGR or CAT. So maybe that's the culprit. How would I confirm if the EGR is functioning? I also will note I haven't been able to recreate when letting the truck warm up and idle/rev when stationary. It's only when driving which is why I'm also thinking brake booster. Does that track?

I'm getting high idles and a whirring/whining sound (maybe vacuum leak) plus bad throttle response. It used to just happen after freeway driving, now its as soon as the truck is warm and gets worse after driving. Idles at like 2k sometimes after sustained freeway driving. I've chased all the vacuum lines and sprayed with brake clean, I had a thought it could be brake booster, maybe IAC (although its new and made no difference unplugged), or cracked intake/bad manifold gasket. Any ideas?