JIMMYRIG

Does anyone know anything about swapping tj or yj seats into an mj? I'm fine having to do some fab just curious if anyone has any experience. My JEGS buckets are failing me after only a year

Gotcha. So 97+ xj shafts will work. What about zj? I havent seen any 97+ at my local JY in a while

Also if I do the CAD delete and run a 1 piece axle on my Dana 30 are there any shafts I can pull from a yard that work with the 89 CAD axle? I need to get rid of the 2 piece, the 4x4 is not engaging just in time for ski season😔

Ok I’ll keep an eye out. I need to check what my ratio is now. Pete, I referred back to one of your old posts and I’m wondering if maybe I have the fuel economy package. I’ve ran the 33x12.5s for the last 10-15 thousand miles and the truck has handled it well so far… makes me wonder

Ok thank you all for the help I'll continue to brainstorm my options

Unless regearing isnt that bad? I assumed it required tools I don't have but I don't exactly know what it entails for these axles

Ok. Looks like I'm sticking with 33s for the foreseeable future. I don't have the time or money to replace my entire drivetrain. My bottom line is that this thing can be a (relatively) safe daily and get me to and fro the mountains in snow season. I'll look into shafts, CAD and LSD for my current setup but for now I want to see if i can squeeze at least another year out of my peugot as I just did the throwout bearing and clutch. I also don't really want to regear my current axles as the cost of labor alone would likely exceed the cost of junkyard axles and I don't have the tools do regear myself.

I see. So you're saying its worth it to keep my current front axle and just throw in a one piece shaft. Also is it a must to go with a stronger rear shaft if I'm locking the axle? Since its a non c clip it wouldn't necessarily be unsafe to just install an LSD and then if i snap a shaft upgrade then?

I think I have 3.07 gears - its a peugot 5spd, 35 non c, I think I have 3.07s. Its a peugot 5spd and 4.0 I6

I have 33s now and don't plan on ever going bigger than maybe 35s. Not sure I understand what you mean by cast in upper control arm. Also not sure if this matters but I'm considering doing a CAD delete and doing a long arm kit. Doing CAD delete because I got the truck up on the rack today and found out 4x4 is not engaging even though part time light comes on and vacuum hoses are connected

Ok. For now its my preferred daily as its more efficient than my obs ford. I want the truck to be capable in snow and ice and I'd like it to be capable enough on trails to get to cool camping spots but I don't have the money to abuse it on trails right now.

Apologies for creating yet another axle swap thread…. I have a 35 non-c rear with discs and 30 front. My front axle is in need of some attention as the ball joints are shot, axle seals leaked all diff fluid out and on top of that one of my rims is bent. I’ve also wanted to install lockers at least in the rear but I’ve heard Dana 35s are not worth it. So… I’m curious if I should just go snag a couple junkyard axles from a ZJ and avoid having to regear? Or maybe even do a super duty swap if I need to replace rims anyways. Any thoughts?

Thanks I’ll check these out. I forgot to mention some of the other symptoms… Normally I get tach bounce when cranking, however when I have this issue there is no tach bounce until right before I finally get it to start. Also the last couple days I’ve given and just pushed it down the hill to bumpstart. If all else fails bumpstarting seems to work every time. I have other things I know I need to replace like my iac valve but I doubt that is causing the issue

I have a crank no start problem that is inconsistent but lately seems to happen after the truck sits for more than 8 hours. At one point I was able to keep shutting the ignition off and back on a few times and that would resolve it. Anyone got a clue what it could be? My hunch is cps but wanted to see other people’s ideas. Thanks!

Update: finally got door open. Latch was in shambles, idk what happened to the internals but I was able to push really hard on the door from the outside to loosen up any tension and then slide a screwdriver through this tiny little window on the latch. It’s pretty much only visible if you are laying on your side in the truck with your head pressed up against the door ,and the interior panel pulled off of course. I’ll send a pic when i pull the latch. I wouldn’t wish this on my worst enemy… climbing in and out from the passenger side over the bolsters of my buckets and over the center console every day for over a week was a pain. Thank god I take yoga!! Appreciate everyone’s help

Yeah applying pressure from the outside and still not getting anywhere. Now the button on the outside doesn't have any resistance to it when I push. It almost feels like when you push the button when the doors locked

Thanks, thats a big help. It's a bit difficult to get a good view of whats going on with the latch since I have to lay across the seats and console but ill keep messing with it.

All the plastic clips are intact and inside lock and handle rods are connected. I’m prying on the latch itself and it won’t move, however the button on the outside will push in. This all started because the other day the inside handle stopped working so I pulled the panel off today to try to repair. I was unsuccessful so I put it all back and drove to work to find now that both inside and outside handles don’t work.

I’ve both unlocked from the outside and pulled the lock linkage arm from the inside and from what I can tell it’s unlocked.

My door latch is stuck and will not open from either inside or outside the truck on the drivers side. I’ve pulled the door panel off and manually tried prying the latch open. It won’t budge. Any suggestions before I saw my door off?

When I had the drums I was getting a lot of squeaking in the rear and pad material was building up within the drum. I put the discs on for ease of changing pads. Do you recommend any pad in particular? The pads in the front have been replaced in the last couple months however the rear were the ones that came with the calipers from the junkyard. They had life left so I kept them.

I just did a zj disc conversion with junkyard parts on my dana 35 non c clip. I'm still having poor performance and feel like all, if not most, of the power is going to the front brakes. I did a master cylinder and booster from a 97-01 xj so its dual diaphragm and I swapped in the prop spring from the zj. I deleted the load sensing valve under the bed so the only thing affecting proportioning is the xj valve. Any ideas as to why I'm getting poor performance?

Is the spacer supposed to sit inside the bore of the axle or just inside the backing plate? I ordered this exact part from teraflex and am trying to install on my d35 non-c with junkyard zj backing plates. The OD of the spacer is larger than the ID of the backing plate and bore.