jage

Email them to me and tell me what you want to have as a result. My domain is my username dot com and you can email jage@ that.

Come on the guy put in a REBUILT 2.8L. You can't question that, just write the check. I passed up on a 91 with coil spacers an fiberglass fenders for $7300, and just missed the 89 the guy sold before it for $10K.. it had bed rails! You can't beat those prices! :nuts:

If I were only looking at MJs I'd accept that, well to a certain point (no mostly stock MJ is worth $7000). But XJs and TJs aren't rare at all.

I'm looking at MJs and XJs for my wife. People want top dollar for crap with tons of mileage. There is a TJ across the hill listed for $6500, says "NADA $8000" it's got 150K miles and a busted windshield. I put it in edmunds and DEALER is $3400 with the hard top. These people are fricken crazy. I saw an XJ in cali on ebay and it says "low miles" then later: "125,000 miles". WTF? I'm starting to get pissed off. Everybody wants top dollar for their hi mileage junk. The guy who does fleet sales told me $2600 cash was salvage price for a 1994 with no features and 152K. It's freaking 14 years old for starters... Anyway, I'm just venting. How come when the economy is in the crapper people think they're going to get double blue book for something with 1/3 of the miles? :headpop: :wall:

I've got the full zone alarm suite. :mad: stupid internet

Dude that site spyware trojan'd my computer. I couldn't even delete it until I shut the site. "Trojan-Spy.HTML.Fraud.gen" Risk: High

Well you're not supposed to fill it up with gas first! :nuts:

That's a nice green- good looking MJ. I have to share a story. :D My dad did a bunch of rust work on his XJ, naval jelly and aluminum tape over the holes, and then painted it black with brush on rustoleum. Apart from being ugly (and brushed on) it held up pretty well. He went back at some point with blue latex brush on, thinking it would seal things up. I tried to tell him you can't put latex over oil-based paint and he was convinced I had it backwards. The next day the whole jeep was peeling blue in big sheets and there was blue "snow" up to quarter size blown all over the neighbors yard!

My MJ with the AX-4 had the wrong throw out bearing put in and the clutch had about a 1/2" of travel from the top of the pedal before it was completely released. The rest of the pedal travel was useless. I'm guessing that it was an AX-15 bearing. I put it back together with an ax-5 and ax-5 kit and while there were problems with the kit pieces, the throwout was shorter so I assumed correct. The ax-4 clutch petals were paper thin. Even more helpful (haha) is the fact that I never got the driveshafts in to test my work. :D

I've had good luck with Rustoleum and always buy it. I bought Krylon once because the store didn't cary Rustoleum and it was awful- ruined my project. I've done several things with Rustoleum rattle cans including 2 full vehicles. Get yourself a handle that snaps into the top ring of the can and has a trigger to depress the nozzle. Your thumbs will thank you later.

Keep your receipt! The cable is pretty stiff and not the easiest thing to run.

Back before they had a 3" lift version I had one in my XJ with 6.5" of lift. I'd buy the longer one- can't go wrong with too much cable!

poop chute a poop shout is when you yell "$#!&" as in, "$#!&, that pig ain't got no poop chute!" i would think you could get on a talk show or medical science would be interested or something.

Well if you haven't bought a new tank and you're not ready to custom build, have you looked into a fuel cell?

Apart from: 1. taking it out 2. building a "case" 3. extending the lines what else is there? You've got a fuel line, return line and two electrical lines. Everything else just holds the tank on IIRC. I haven't seen Jeepco's thread, and I'm just throwing out my opinion (trying not to sound like a douche, I think this is an awesome idea). Maybe people on the board can provide enough information, if not an actual build page, to help you through the project. But we darn sure better see a build page afterwards!

I found a rust free 11 slot grill 2wd with 250K miles. The guy wants $1500... I'm assuming it was a typo and offered $400 if it will drive around the lot. Since I'm shopping more than finding and pricing is all over the board what do you think a rust free MJ with nothing else going for it is worth?

Here's a pic of my 88 with the "wind anchor" on the top. I felt like the little 4-banger didn't have hard enough a life I guess...

He said, "however I really need a long bed and/or a FS truck for a shop truck" that's as much as I know. I don't know I think I could have a rust free truck delivered from GA to CO then pay to put a whole new drivetrain and interior in it and then paint it and still come out under $7K... too bad I don't have that kind of moolah to play with!

Well he sold the gray 88 for $10K and wants $7300 for the white one as he'd rather have a long wheel base. Way out of my price range, I was thinking $4K... ah well. Thanks for the help! Jeremiah

It's the white MJ on Code 4x4 It belongs to the owner of Code: "I really like the truck and don't want to part with it, .................but for the right price I'd consider it." I don't know him, he could be looking for $5500 or something, or he could just be ready because he's added the 4 door wrangler to the stable. I emailed him a few questions and requested more photos. I'll keep you all posted.

91 Comanche Dana 44 4.5" Rubicon Express monotube shocks 4.0L Automatic 4x4 SWB It's SOA an has fiberglass front fenders a la JeepSpeed. Looks clean and has 2 tone "Eliminator" stickers, sittin on 33s. Rims and bumpers are nothing special, in fact I don't care for either the rims (5 fat rounded spokes) nor the prerunner style bumper. The sticker is like this: ELIMINATOR=================== ELIMINATOR================== The top is dark grey with a light grey behind the letters the bottom is light with dark in back. The stripes after eliminator go to the rear wheel well. Here's the problem. He said he might part with it, and how much would I be willing to pay? This is not an exercise in "what would you pay for this truck" this is to figure out what I should respond with. An actual valid fair price that won't piss him off and won't leave me with buyers remorse. Apart from being clean there isn't a lot special- the 44 is probably swapped in, the fenders are bolt on, the paint is probably replica, the front axle is stock, it's open front and rear, etc. I don't even think there are tow hooks and it might be missing the tailgate. And the backspacing looks wrong so the tires probably rub. So, what should I respond with?

Yeah but for HOW MUCH? :cheers:

You guys aren't helping!

Ok, it's 20 hours and $300 of gas (at least) away. That doesn't include the plane ticket. Is it stupid of me to be thinking about this truck? I know comanches and cherokees not J-trucks. I'm also worried the carb on that 360 would die in the mountains here in Denver... but TH300, 35s... pretty... whaddya think? http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/car/621399738.html :mad: to the CL list for making me look at things far far away!

Cherokee side steps? From the years that would almost make sense.