comancheman

pacesetter makes one for about 175 i think. i bought one but never ran the motor i have it on

when i popped out the driver side front axle seal on my 89 CAD D30 the oring that sits right in front of seal came out with it. there is also an oring on the passenger side of the diff housing. should these be replaced with the seals and exactly what do they do? sorry about the pic and i don't know why the writing is all fancy i couldnt figure out how to change it

i think I'm going with this for now: http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-SHDTR&Category_Code=XST

anyone verify that the rugged ridge kit won't clear with factory rims?

i just installed mine last weekend. you need to relocate the swaybar axle mount, cut off the steering stabilizer axle mount and trim the front of the coil buckets. it is recommended to brace the coil buckets, but i don't think its a must. i did just cause i have access to a welder, but would have had no problem not doing it. the only thing bad i have to say about it was the 3 week long wait to get it. howd the drilling/reaming go? id worry I'm not drilling square with the knuckle and get slop in the tre's.

jizz mouth and butt lady of the night awesome!

http://reviews.walmart.com/1336/b72ed9ae5ff03dc5cee3a9dbfecfd021/profile.htm click on the youtube link

yeah but i guess i want something bigger. Id love to go JCR OTK but they recommend bracing the front coil buckets and i don't have a welder. anyone running this setup? how much fab was actually needed?

ok so i bent my OE tie rod pretty bad and its time for an upgrade. so many choices! All i really need is the tie rod but I'm not opposed to buying the whole set up. looking for something in the $200-$400 range. ive looked at currie, jcr, rugged ridge, tnt, rockkrawler, and rustys. all have there ups and downs. i don't like the currie set up because you can't replace just the tre's and rustys because well, all the rusty's rants. I'm thinkin of just getting the tnt tie-rod but before i do i want some opinions from everyone good and bads from each set up. i don't need the best set up out there, basically bang for the buck is most important.

i just gutted everything but my pinion shaft from my front axle its a 89 with CAD & 3.55 gears. the CAD has been shimmed already but I'm thinking of upgrading to a one piece shaft with the bigger u-joints. it all started with the need for new ball joints and grew into almost a complete rebuild. I basically have three questions: 1. will any 96 and up one piece shaft work from a tj or xj? is spline count the same on differential end and hub end? 2. I want to change the knuckle so i can get rid of the tapered collar that has to be changed with the lower ball joint. its my understanding that anything after 90 doesnt have this. will a unit bearing from an 89 fit one of these newer knuckles? 3. when i switch two a one piece shaft do i remove the seal by the CAD and put one in at the carrier or leave the one by the CAD?

my lower ball joints came with a new tapered "collar" with external threads that screws into the knuckle. the collar that is previously in th knuckle is severly rusted. is there a special tool to remove it? or is it really neccesary to remove it? also it says i should set the new collar .206" into the knuckle how the heck can i measure that?

started doing all my ball joints today and it wasnt pretty. The wheel bearings were a PITA to remove and i ended up ordering new ones for piece of mind. in the process i ended up bangin around the axle shaft a little more than i would have liked to and i really don't want to get it all back together and have the seals leak. i have a basic understanding of whats needed but I'm a little weary of removing the front differential. can anyone give up any pointers or a link to doing seals on a disco d30. all i could find searching were one piece axle conversion write ups.

for the record the guy at the parts store pronounced it moo-g. not that you can count on every parts guy to know what hes talking about. anyway i went with the moog bj's and ill probably do new front u-joints while I'm at it. they've been popping in 4wd for about a year

ok so just finished redoing my brakes. new lines, booster, master cyl, calipers, everything brake related is new. spent around $400 on everything. go in for inspection. . . 3 out of 4 bad ball joints, holes in both side floors, and no back up lights. back up lights come on you just have to jiggle the shifter a little but no thats not acceptable! ok i actually enjoy putting new parts on the truck especially safety related ones but thats around $700 total this month. I paid that much for the truck. I'm just glad I don't have to pay labor charges. I'm also kicking myself for not checkin the front end when i did the brakes but hey what can you do. rant over :ack:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ball-Joint-Tie-Rod-End-FULL-KIT-Jeep-CHEROKEE-COMANCHE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1171Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a0Q7c293Q3a3Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem330306634789QQitemZ330306634789QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories has anybody ever used this? I have 3 out of 4 bad balljoints and figured why not replace everything. if i don't get that I'm going to get 4 moog ball joints. i know that moog is probably better but i was curious to see if any body had any experience with these parts. 4 moog ball joints=$220

Thanks guys, now I'm excited to get back from school and get it back on the road. ive missed drivin it the past few weeks.

IDIOT!!!! thanks for stimulating the brain eagle. i suddenly feel so stupid. o well what can i say it was 11:30pm and about 10 degrees when i did it.

I'm using the mj metering block and plugged the nose port and ran a new line from the front bottom port.

so inspection time is coming up and i needed to do the front brakes and figured while doing that might as well get rid of the rear propvalve and install the new booster/mastercyl ive had sitting in a box in my closet for over a year. i ended up doing front pads, calipers, and rotors new lines every where except passenger front and put in the new booster/master combo. i can not get fluid to the rear end. ive gravity bled for probably 8 hours and also bled the normal way for much longer than ive ever had to in the past. i realize that theres alot of air in the new line that runs front to back but its getting ridiculous. i never had any real braking power in the rear and always attributed this to the rear prop valve. now I'm puzzled as to whats actually going on. also maybe two years ago i replaced rear wheel cyls drums shoes and hardware. i was able to bleed the wheel cylinders and had good fluid coming out then but still never had them actually function. any tips, tricks, or suggestions? TIA, Tim

does anyone know a p/n on the o-rings for the oil filter adapter housing on a 89 4.0 or where i can get something comparable? TIA, Tim

always carry a spare fuel pump ballast resistor and then a spare for your spare. or carry a jumper wire to get you home.

bumper looks awesome! i wish i could afford one now. gotta say that liscense isnt gona last off road though

looks like you might be a little mixed up. Dana 35 in the back Dana 30 in the front. simply put the 30 is ok the 35 is junk.

hey sportruck, I'm glad you joined. X3 on the running light sockets. mainly make sure the ground tab on side of the inside socket is making good contact with the bulb, also make sure all other contact points are clean. bad grounds will cause all sorts of strange behavior. when i first bought my mj if i hit the left blinker all my running lights would flash. even my instrument panel lights and the light at the transfer case shifter would blink. if i bent out the ground tab in left running light socket the problem went away. i ended up replacing both sockets anyways. also wouldnt be a bad idea to grab a test light and check for power at the sockets.

Same exact thing happened to me when i swapped in another motor. Turned out to be the CPS. probably a good idea to change it either way