ADAs89

Loving all the resto type work man. My build is in a similar place, I should be doing more little things like this to stay motivated on the big picture.

I forgot about that one. You can have power to/through the switch, and if that 7.5A fuse is gone, there will be no power to the light If the fuse is gone or blown there won't be power to the switch.

If there's no reservoir and the fluid is just feeding back into circulation through the rad cap once it reaches operating temp then the pressure would continue to build and probably pop the cap off. Looks like the PO may have been trying to make a hybrid closed system with an open system rad. Odd...

Don't forget to check the "trans" fuse under the dash. power to the switch come from there. i'd start from either the battery end or the light end and work the opposite direction checking voltages.

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Got it wrapped up. My multimeter was reading around 11 volts at the rear lights once I found the correct two wires and bypassed the reverse switch(wired it in later after I got the issue figured out). But even though I was getting 11 volts at the plug the light would still not come on... so I started working back towards the front of the vehicle checking plugs and connections. When I got back to the fuse box under the dash it all looked fine and was reading correct voltage, but I noticed where the fuse plugs in that the prongs on top were a little farther apart than the ones on the bottom and they looked a little corroded. Well once I started messing with it one of the contact prongs in the in the fuse block fell out. figured that it was such a loose and poor connection that it showed voltage but couldn't support even the slightest amperage. don't really know, but once I wired in a separate fuse block and wired the reverse switch in it all worked good. So I'm back up and going! I have pictures of the stuff I did but I'm not sure how to post them yet, if I figure it out I'll post them back here for any future searchers. Thanks everyone for suggestions and input. Also I never really found the right wiring diagram though I'm sure its out there. but the two wires I used from the four wire plug coming from the body and going to the transmission were the brown/blue stripe (comes from fuse block but at some point turns to just brown before entering the firewall, found it by way on continuity test) and then the brown/white stripe (goes to the rear lights). wired those two wires to the switch on the passenger side of the AX15. Concluded.

Update, I got power to my light socket. Multimeter shows 11.4 volts. But its appearing to be useless power, I can get no light to come on with it. Not even by applying the wires directly to the bulb. Is this a symptom of a bad wire or possible short?

RIGHT! but what two wires? I don't have the old ba10 plug so I don't know what two wires to wire to the ax15 plug, What wire goes to the lights? or does one?

Yes the taillights and blinkers work. I'm trying to bypassed the switch just trying get the lights to come on. I'm hoping if I can just find the right wires first then I can determine if the switch is good.

Alright so I just got a 89 Comanche 4.0 5spd 2wd. been working on getting everything going so I can get it on the road and on to being my DD. Wasn't running when I got it and Cruiser54s tips helped tremendously in getting it going, so thank you for that. I'm now on to getting all the lights to work. The person that had it before did an AX15 swap but did not bother to wire up the reverse switch. so i'm needing a little help with the wire colors and locations to get it going. I've tried searching around to find the right diagram but seem to be getting conflicting answers. when I probe the connector that I thought was the body side of the switch connection I get a hot wire but no matter what combination of wires I twist together I can't get the reverse lights to come on. So any information would be helpful. Thanks in advance