thousender

Hi guys, I've been tryna find a decent set of used aluminum wheels for a while now. I wanted some with minimal offset so they'd fit inside my fenders when flexed out. I finally found a set off a Ranger that seem right but was wondering if anybody's tried them before. I don't wanna do any cutting and would rather leave my flares on. Thanks

I'm in Delta, right across from the border

You could even do 3" pucks in the front with yj brake lines to get the truck to sit more level🤷‍♂️. But I'm with Pete, don't waste your time and money on stiff add a leafs and coils when you can get a better ride and better flex for 100 bucks. That said, anything over 3" is a completely different story and youd have to get some more refined parts.

What happens if you use oem size chevy shackles? Are they too long or does the chevy use a different setup?

Hi there, I am officially starting a build thread for my 1987 SWB 2.5l 2wd. I already have a donor cherokee for the 4wd and will be putting in wj controll arms but am stuck on what to do lift wise. Since its a 2wd I think I'll be getting my driveshaft cut down as the cherokee one won't fit (correct me if I'm wrong). My original plan was to try a 2" shackle lift in the back and put 3" lift blocks in the front with plans to go more extreme in the future. But I don't want to get another driveshaft made in the future, so I'm thinking it might be the time to put the bigger lift on now (I'm thinking around 4-5 inches). I want it to ride comfortably on the highway and be soft on the trail so I'm hesitant to put in stuff like helper leafs. I'm in school so this is a budget build, but I have the time to do a nice job if that's what it takes. What are your opinions?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2744701182498844?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A91cbc49e-bcd0-4711-956f-1816c0d4a4eb Too bad the mileage is so high. Doesn't really matter, but its a really nice truck otherwise.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/349821246687301/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Ae722398f-d23c-4447-88cf-93445c526213 For the registry

Great way to get started!

I bought my MJ for $300 (up to $1200 with repairs and small upgrades) and I plan to treat her with all the respect she deserves and keep her maintained to the best of my abilities. Just because something was cheap doesn't mean the owner is as well...

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/812442946060847/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A27ba27a2-de46-499d-b8e6-afa65a890a00

I JUST had the same problem except with my front drivers-side; it turned out to be bad sockets. You can take them apart by forcing the two pieces of plastic apart, pulling out the wires and contacts then sanding them lightly with 600 grit. You'll have to glue the plastic back together (I used gorilla glue as it expands and creates a tight seal) but the wires and contacts will just clip back in. If you don't want to spend the 20 minutes, you can just replace them. Lordco has stock ones and if you're in the US I'm sure RockAuto would. Should be about 7 bucks...

Nope, I'm doing a 4wd swap and want to buy all the "right" parts. I was just curious.

Can anybody tell me if there are any other t-cases you can bolt on to an ax5 other than the NP231J. Any help replies be appreciated

Does anybody know about the driveshafts and speedometer cable?

Thanks guys

I will be doing a 4wd swap on my 87 2.5l shortbed and want to know what I can salvage from a cherokee. Also, Id to make sure I can take parts off an auto comanche and/or 4.0 comanche. Thanks for any responses

https://vancouver.craigslist.org/bnc/ctod/quesnel-jeep-comanche-enthusiasts/7350225880.html For the registry

Yep. Completely forgot about that https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/289615576250904/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A8e60f38d-c77b-40e8-97ad-c78e03d71d43 I couldn't find it anywhere in the picture (I also don't know where to look though)

For the registry

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/785985299022243/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A8e60f38d-c77b-40e8-97ad-c78e03d71d43

Also my MTS came with two rubber pump pieces to snug up the end mount and I don't know why. They are the same size bit one has ridges on the outside and a little notch out of the top.

Old pump

New pump

MTS Fuel pump assembly came today and I have to say, I'm somewhat disappointed. With the factory assembly, the fuel pump was mounted and secured on both ends with a nut. So it was very solid and was sure to stay in place. Not the case with the new one. It fits fine on the bottom end but there is no mount on the top! The fuel pump rotates a little bit and you can actually pull it out by hand if you remove the filter (easily pulled off by hand as well- but that's expexted). The last thing I noticed was that rubber on the overflow outlet was starting to crack. After I paid premium price ($250) for a brand new "premium" fuel pump assembly, it's pretty cheap and discouraging to see that the rubber is starting to crack! Now, do all these flaws matter? I don't know... has anyone bought and used one of these pumps? Do they work as they should or do these flaws become problems? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks

Same with me depending on how expensive shipping and the headliner itself cost...