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JOMJ87

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Everything posted by JOMJ87

  1. The pinion should sit parrallel to the transfer case output. Cole
  2. Thanks I havent thought of that being a issue. but i shouldnt have any trouble modifying it to work. Cole
  3. Ok if you have been a member for awhile you know when i get back home i am doing a motor swap from a 91 YJ 2.5(MPI) into my 87 MJ 2.5(TBI) and I don't need to hear i should go 4.0 cause do to the deal I'm getting and the Fact my crazy brain :nuts: really likes the 2.5 :chillin: i am not going with a 4.0. I already know that my ECU and harness have to be swapped for the MPI one but can anyone give me pointers or straight out tell me how hard the harness and Comp swap will be. I have done alot of work to my truck and other vehicles but never have i swapped a harness/ecu from one to another. I am thinking leave the harness connected to the motor side (well as much as possible and disco it form the ECU but can anyone see a prob or better way than that. What issues could i run into. I kinda ask this before but now its getting closer and we have alot new members so I thought i would gather as much intel as i could befoer i go threw with it. Thanks Cole
  4. Do like me and put hood pins on it. Sorry to get off topic
  5. you could go with 97+ and make the front look new or go with older and have it look the same and as far as doors go I am not sure which year but i know that some have a diff latch system that can be made to work with yours. Cole
  6. Pete thats because you carry everything including a kitchen sink in your bed. I can't view pics (pic websites are banned on these comps) but I'm sure your bed is full of spare junk. Anyway you could find a big lead wieght and hang it under the rea bed part of the MJ and that would help. I think some 200 MPPH duct tape would hold it real nice too. ;) :nuts: Cole
  7. No i have a while longer. I do wish it sometimes but its not that bad where i am. I just now got a chance to get back on here and talk to everyone in awhile. I just have been ordering the stuff i need when i get back so there is no lag time when i do want to start my truck. Cole
  8. If i were you I would put in some 1" spacers up front and cut the fenders or remove the flares and make it look nice and stock looking with a trim and roll of the metal. But thats just me. You can run 31s with no lift but you can't stuff to well and with around 1-1.5" you should be able to do it with stock parts. you should be able to go 2-.25 maybe a tad more with just sway bar extensions, adj lower arms, And maybe a drop pitman arm is what i think you should be able to get away with. Maybe someone will provide more that i missed. Cole
  9. I have seen some racing buckets on www.completeoffroad.com for one new one its 60 bucks which aint bad with the free shipping they have. All you would need to do is get some mj brackets and adapt it to the seats which should be kinda simple if you have any fab experience. I thought of this option but i think i am going to go bench again cause i don't like my buckets and they are tore up. I am not tall and i have xj buckets in mine which causes me to have to Jump up in my truck since its got 7+" of lift and 35s on it. My seat started breaking on the edge so now its time for new ones. Cole
  10. OK I know I am not working on the MJ at this time but I did order the Gears and master Install kits for it today so As soon as i return to the states i will have a new set of yukon 4.88s front and rear and then if My buddy can find a 91-95 XJ with a good 4.0 and all the essetials for a motor swap i will have a newish 2.5 thgat only has around 40k on it from a 91 yj. So its looking good for the MJs new heart and feet. If anyone knows of an XJ with the parts needed for a swap and a 4.0 in SC/NC area please let me know. Cole
  11. I made a spacer for the block where it mounts to the bed(where the cable splits and drops to the tires) and lowered that so that my cables were long enough. May not be the right way but it works great. just a cheap idea. Cole
  12. I have found a great dealer on ebay that sells yukon gears for a good price. The company is called Complete off-road and if you know of anywhere else that sells gears at low low price that are good quality please don't hesitate to post. Cole
  13. The spring rate issue could be solved by using something i have used in the past. Its a set of coil springs thqat you setup with bolt on clamps to your shock tubes. I used it to lift my truck back when i only had about 50 bucks to do it. They were at advanced auto and worked well. The don't give any lift unless you install them compressed and then bolt them on thus it holds the shock at almost full exstention(sp??) but if you install them how they are suposed to be it will work how you are needing. Oh and this is for the rear of the jeep the front is as easy as finding a set of coils for a full size and cutting them to length. Just a quick thought i had. Good luck. Cole
  14. Well I have been over here for a little over a month and i thought i would check the site. I don't get that much free time so I may not get back on for awhile but i will try to stay in the loop. I am going nuts not working on the truck since i have so much to do before late july. Well thanks for the support and hopefully I can stick my head in every few days. And welcome to all the new members i have been seeing Cole
  15. Hey its been awhile since I posted so don't be alarmed. I just wanted to say when you do the motor swap take lots of notes and do a really good write up casue when i return to the states this is my first project. My motor is from a 91 but i think they are the same. Well just keep us posted. Cole EDIT: Also when i do mine i am using a donor YJ is there anything i am going to need to buy? Have you looked to see if the motor mounts line up? Any big issues you think might come up? I am getting everything that is 2.5 out of the YJ but i just wanted to see if there is anything i might need to buy extra cause i am trying to make a funding plan to do it and my rear axle swap and gears front and rear all at once.
  16. Thaks everyone I hope to talk to you soon on here..This will be my last US visit for awhile ;) .....Later Cole
  17. Thanks for the reply. Also do you think my idea is good enough or should I do anything different??? Thanks for your time. Cole
  18. OK here is anaother and just so you guys Know as of now I will have a bed so I have to contend with that. Here are three diff drawings I hope you can understand the drawings. :oops: Cole
  19. Thanks for the input Brett I will take this and draw another of what you had said. I Had thought of your way at first but then I thought Triangles are stronger so why not do one there. :dunno: Well let me see what I can draw Up. Cole
  20. OK here is what I thought but it may be overkill. I think it would help alot with the transfer of energy and all let me know if that looks like it would work. EDIT::: I forgot to mention for those who don't realize The bar blocking the door would be removed. Cole
  21. Thats is what one of questions is The bar he has that blocks the doors....I was thinking of moving it so that I could CUT the corner of the door and it clear Ill do a MS Paint drawing of it just be a second.... Cole
  22. Understodd and I should have explained what I wanted to do with it. OK I am going to make a Roll bar for the rear bed area out of 2" and tie them together so it does spread the wieght I just didnt have a clue about where to start with the front to make sure I am good flopped over. I really like Pongs cage after I seen the pics of all the dif. points in it. Hopefully I can get it to work out. Cole
  23. Ok Pat I have a few questions on your exo cage I am posting pics so you see what I am refering to. I plan to do an EXO cage and your front looks like a great option to base mine off of. Now here it goes 1: Will the same design you used on JUST the front be good enough for roll over?? 2: Did you plate the unibody? And How? 3: Do the Double bars mess with your vision? 4: Can you do an In depth right up on the build of it if you remember and I'm talking every detial? (only if you think it will work for me) 5: The bar on the door....Could it be moved so my stock doors could work and still do its job? 6: how much of what kind of tubeing to do Just the front? 7: Any special stuff to consider??? Thanks for your time I just wan tot get it right and I think you have proved yourself to be one of the most techy on this stuff. Pics below Cole
  24. That was a great comment there I will have to use that one day. :D Cole
  25. JOMJ87

    Coolest MJ

    OK ill do it in tech since it will be technical. Cole
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