Incommando

Like Paradise said... it is a small unit at the rear of the head for twmp. The parts monkeys will try to sell you the one by the thermostat and that is not the one that needs to be changed.

Try the boostwerks shifter linkage

* some sort of tannish color * 5k = stroker motor and axles for the MJ * 50k = a new pickup and trailer * 150k = major remodel on the house plus the 2 above * I am really not online much anymore * H3resq * excellent prime rib * maroon * Viper What is your favorite 'wheeling spot? Badlands for me

Yeah the MJ/XJ D44 tubes were about the smallest tubes I have found in D44's. Another scratch against thinking they are gold.

The stockers I took off of my '91 had the bulge

To be honest Alexia's lift could never be completed for that price. He left out several major components like shocks. Going with Bilsteins like he did plus the other parts needed would have put his lift at $1,100 + from the start.

The truck performs pretty well for a daily drive-able level rig. it has zero bumpsteer/DW issues. You can go down the highway at 75 mph with one finger on the wheel. Drive 100 miles, wheel all day, and drive it back home. As I was reminded RTI results and 'wheeling results can be two different things. i have posted these before: Stuffed 32" tire Rear had plenty of flex left front droop....short arms/no CAD. I have a pic with more droop showing if I can get the guy to send it to me But I wouldn't have any droop with short arms and 5.5" of lift so many said.... It may not be the best of the best but it works. suspension working overs some ruts This truck honestly drives as well as it did stock.

You are right there. The springs have more than doubled in price!

If you post a pic I would bet someone could ID them

That Boostwerks set-up is sweet. Here is something that I have posted before. Maybe it will give you some helpful info...maybe not... :dunno: I did this last spring. Pretty simple as the 2wd beam axle uses all of the same suspension as the solid axle from the 4x4. If you can use a wrench you can do this swap on the front. Unbolt one, bolt in the other. A couple of hours work. You will need a matching AW4 and transfer case. Spline counts changed some between years so it is easier to get a matched set and get one as close to the year of your truck as possible to alleviate any possible electronics matching problems. Some claim issues with swapping years. I used a '96 set-up in my '91 with no problems. Obviously XJ donors are the most plentiful. Get the t-case shifter at the same time or use the option below. Drop the fluid lines & shifter linkage, drop the rear drive shaft being careful about the fluid in the tranny, unbolt the 4 converter to flexplate bolts, unbolt the bell housing ( the top two are a weird inverted torx thingy...can be a PITA), drop the cross member, & as you drop the tranny disconnect the electronics. Be sure to keep the cross member & mount oriented correctly as they can go back together backwards and cause alignment issues. Attach the electronics/speedo to the new pieces, hoist it in place, & re-install the crossmember as it is the same for 2wd/4wd. Attach the bell housing bolts, attach the flex plate bolts, attach the lines. You will need to screw with the exhaust as the main hanger is attached to the cross member. I took my exhaust completely off to weld up the manifold and to go custom past the head pipe. If you are going to go off-road in any kind of wet area take this time to extend your tranny breather tube. It is much easier out of the truck. The t-case shifter can be a royal pain to source and mount especially in the rust belt. A far better solution, both in ease of installation and later performance, is this shifter linkage: http://www.boostwerksengineering.com/231-HD-Shift-Linkage-Auto-Trans-_p_25.html . That is $38 well spent. To install the shifter itself pull back your carpet and unbolt the access plate. Bolt the t-case shifter into place from the interior side. Attach that new linkage from below. Attach the original tranny shifter linkage. The front drive shaft is pure XJ. Maybe grab it with the tranny & stuff. The rear drive shaft is more tricky. First of all the original is too long and will need to be shortened. The new length will depend on the t-case and rear axle that you use. here is a chart that will help: http://comancheclub.com/topic/18925-looking-for-driveshaft-lengths-of-stock-trucks/ . The next problem is that that although the 4wd trucks used a conventional rear drive shaft from the factory the 2wd trucks used a bizarre ( and giant) two-piece arrangement with an inner and an outer tube. In between is a full-length rubber sleeve that connects the two tubes. That rubber makes re-welding harder and the shaft often cannot be re-balanced if that rubber has shifted over the years. You cannot get an XJ shaft as the MJ has a longer wheel base. That leaves having a custom shaft built or doing what I did: I found a conventional shaft in the pick-in-pull that was longer but used the same 1310 u-joints. I had this shortened and re-balanced as that is usually about a third of the price of a custom shaft. needed: 4wd AW4 & matching t-case T-case shifter & boot t-case linkage front driveshaft Front Dana 30 HP front from an MJ/XJ in a gear ratio to match your rear. ( the early CAD axles are less desirable and use smaller u-joints. '96-99 up are better donors. A 2000/2001 XJ or a TJ front end will bolt in but they are weaker low pinion designs and it will be hard to match the ratio with a tj front. ) custom rear drive shaft of one flavor or another I tried to make this as complete as possible but I may have forgotten something. Good luck.

I agree about Oregon

I got my tranny from a '96 and all of the other pieces from a '98.

Very quietly Chrysler ceased to exist last December. It was replaced by Fiat Chrysler Automobiles.

I think the leverage on each stud would be less by using ten shorter studs then 5 long studs. In drag racing the long studs are required for visual inspection reasons. The studs sticking through an open nut shows instantly that the studs are present and are at least engaged the minimum amount. In that manner the leverage on the long stud is no greater than on a short stud as the nut still secures the wheel at the same distance from the base of the stud. That is the fulcrum of the leverage and again it is not changed when used in the prescribed manner. Mounting the lugs further out would increase the leverage. Especially as the hole in the spacer is wider than the stud and the stud would be unsupported for the width of the spacer where that does not occur in either the stock configuration or using ten studs as you do with spacers. You would be more likely to shear studs by using the longer studs for that reason. Look below: the space between the black mounting surface and blue lug nut is unsupported stud in each example. The first two examples keep the stock unsupported length of any given stud while the longer stud from example three creates a much, much longer unsupported area and an increase in leverage. The increase in leverage would make it more likely to break the stud. IIIIIIII mounting surface wheel lug nut (stock configuration) IIIIIIII mounting surface spacer lug nut IIIIIIII mounting surface wheel lug nut (stock with spacer) IIIIIIIIIIIIIIII mounting surface wheel spacer lug nut (long lug nut) I am not saying that breaking a stud in the last example is guaranteed, just that to some degree it is more likely than the other examples. Common among racers......look it up. Also, I'd bolt the spacer on the hub with long studs and then bolt the wheel onto the the long stud........stud will not stress. I've been in drag racing for 30 years. I was just pointing out that as drag racers use longer studs the fact that they are longer is of no concern. In that app the mounting is exactly like with a short stud. The longer stud created no difference other than an inspector is able to be see it through an open lug nut. Before the additional info in the 2nd post about using 2 nuts it sounded to me that you would be changing the geometry. I am not sure what advantage going through the expense and labor to beat out 5 studs per spacer to install 5 longer studs per wheel with 2 nuts on each stud for 10 total nuts a corner would be over the way all of the spacer designers make them with a single nut per ten studs a wheel. That would do nothing to lessen the number of lug nuts to worry about and I can't see where it would be any stronger for that labor/expense. But there is always more than one way to skin a cat

I think the leverage on each stud would be less by using ten shorter studs then 5 long studs. In drag racing the long studs are required for visual inspection reasons. The studs sticking through an open nut shows instantly that the studs are present and are at least engaged the minimum amount. In that manner the leverage on the long stud is no greater than on a short stud as the nut still secures the wheel at the same distance from the base of the stud. That is the fulcrum of the leverage and again it is not changed when used in the prescribed manner. Mounting the lugs further out would increase the leverage. Especially as the hole in the spacer is wider than the stud and the stud would be unsupported for the width of the spacer where that does not occur in either the stock configuration or using ten studs as you do with spacers. You would be more likely to shear studs by using the longer studs for that reason. Look below: the space between the black mounting surface and blue lug nut is unsupported stud in each example. The first two examples keep the stock unsupported length of any given stud while the longer stud from example three creates a much, much longer unsupported area and an increase in leverage. The increase in leverage would make it more likely to break the stud. IIIIIIII mounting surface wheel lug nut (stock configuration) IIIIIIII mounting surface spacer lug nut IIIIIIII mounting surface wheel lug nut (stock with spacer) IIIIIIIIIIIIIIII mounting surface wheel spacer lug nut (long lug nut) I am not saying that breaking a stud in the last example is guaranteed, just that to some degree it is more likely than the other examples.

I honestly do not believe that is the product but the install. I used that same brand for 90K miles on a KJ with no issues. At 4,500 #'s that jeep was much heavier than your average MJ and it also had both more turque and horsepower than a factory MJ 4.0, all of which are factors on the forces that would effect the spacers/lugs/nuts. As the jeep was a stick and I am immature I abused that jeep horribly with dumping the clutch on-road and being silly off-road. I have used these spacers numerous times. In fact I and the three guys I wheel with all use them with no failures and no problems with them loosening. One XJ has had them on for 110,000 miles. As you and your friend both had issues and the same people probably installed them in the same manner I would look to that for the answer to the failures. Although youtube videos exist of various spacers failing I have never personally seen it nor spoken to anyone who has personally seen.... it is all that " Well they say..." crap. Sure it happens but the realistic risk is very low and no worse than the most other components, IMHO. The other big lie is that they cause bearing failures when, as pointed out above, they do not put any more pressure on the bearings than changing the back-spacing with aftermarket rims. You stand no more chance of shearing the spacer's lugs than you do of shearing the factory ones. Yes it happens to both. Usually it is because of the lugs being improperly installed and that is whether they are coming through a bearing or a spacer. But you can break anything in the right conditions. These are the exact spacers that I used: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/alloy-usa-wheel-spacer-pair-red-5-on-4-5-bolt-pattern-1-2-thick-all-11301.html

That punter is a great weapon for sure. And Jameis should be in prison IMHO

It has been shown in several posts and I think linked before. It is a 2dr XJ if it helps your search

That is a tall order. I have said that Oregon is the best team in the country for several weeks.

They look pretty smart now

O H I O

I have two parts lists posted: an easily repeatable one compiled from various sources and then one with red highlights which is what I used. I found NIB RK Rock Crawler links for cheap and used them. At 5.5 " of front lift I have plenty of adjustment left. You might want to look into those.

No instructions just a template. To be fair they did state that in the ad.

Running 9.7 seconds @ 140 MPH I wanted the crap right..... :thumbsup:

I had Moser narrow and weld 4-link brackets on two D60's for drag cars and was very satisfied. But I will add that was in '93 & '96.