billyblankss

I cannot tell if i am just bad at 'probing' my renix 4.0 TPS or if i'm really getting no signal. Is there a definitive way to confirm i need a new TPS? I recently replaced the throttle body with a bored TB from stroked.jeep and i am getting no signal when i probe the TPS at the throttle body...

sorry to revive very old thread - my inner shift boot is cracked and spewing hot air into the cab. I have an 87 base manual - this part should work right?

I lifted my 87 comanche using a SOA and lift shackles for about 6 inches in the rear. I'm still running the dana 35, mostly because i am intimidated by looking for and finding a new axle (and i've spent plenty of money so far so i may wait on this swap). I ordered a new Tom Woods driveshaft, measuring what I thought was according to instructions... but clearly wasn't. I sent them measurements for the driveshaft length from the rear axle joint to the joint where the shaft connects to the slip yoke... they sent me the new driveshaft which was nearly exactly the same length as the old one - i guess they interpreted my measurement length to include the slip yoke length... i messed up or misinterpreted the instructions. So i installed a 1 inch transfer case drop and using the new tom woods axle it's fine, but it is very extended... and really struggles in first or reverse... To avoid any potential issues where it could drop (like the original did after I lifted), but also not wanting to purchase a completely new driveshaft again... is there a way to just get an extended slip yoke for the stock-type non double-cardan driveshaft? Then i could just replace the slip yoke portion of the new driveshaft... Let me know if this is a terrible idea for whatever reason. It drives now and hasn't had any real issues other than described.

Wait I am still new here and thought when fiat slug said get some from Krusty that was just him referring to Rustys off road. So you make sliders 🤔? Take my money

Yes. I bleed all four brakes. Then I go and open the front caliper bleeder, move the proportion valve arm open the rear valve and push the brake to the floor with the key on. And immediately shoot break fluid all over my shop. I've tried also cracking the front bleeder slightly, opening the rear bleeder and then dripping fluid everywhere. The only thing I haven't tried is opening the front bleeder, keeping the rear bleeder closed and then stepping on the brake. After going thru a whole extra bottle of fluid, which I don't care is cheap and flushes system but is a huge mess.... I gave up and just bled them one more time. Man I know I'm either doing something dumb or missing something dumb so I'm disappointed in myself but it is what it is.

yeah - confirmed. I checked it out because it was close but i couldn't believe the difference - the body of the MJ is way higher from the frame rails than the XJ. and it was a bit short you're right.

100. Could probably talk down to 80, they've been listed awhile. What do you mean the legs are different lengths? Are you saying that from the picture or based on the unibody of the XJ vs. MJ? These were produced by Rusty's but they stopped making this version. I'm hoping they were pretty standard measurements and since we have the same unibody i would think they should be at least similar but idk.

So there's a pretty good deal i saw on CL I would love feedback on before i take the plunge and try to rig this up: https://raleigh.craigslist.org/pts/d/cary-rustys-rock-sliders-new-old-stock/7165340376.html I talked to the seller - these are an old style rusty's rock sliders. He said they fit on his XJ. I realize they may not perfectly fit on my MJ but you think i could make them work with some modification? he said the arms are spaced apart 43" on center. I'm gonna go check them out in a little and hold them up to see if they look like i could make them fit. Other questions - I can't tell if the little square tubing parallel to the sliders is actually square tubing and maybe meant to replace the original rockers - that wouldn't bother me since my passenger side is trash and has some holes in it. I have a stick welder and a flux wire welder... i realize most people use mig with the gas but i'm wondering if i could hopefully bolt these guys in and then maybe do some tacking to make them stay put. Any advice is welcome. For the price i'm very interested.

I finished the lift and neglected to show the results I'm weird and decided to rust coat the leaf springs since they're older than me...

I also had a tiny leak from the rear diff on this super sweet Dana 35... So I changed the gear oil. Got it cleaned up Also decided why not paint this turd of an axle Looks fine

Doing some electrical upgrades. Picked up the headlight wiring harness from K suspensions. Also got the jeep cables package and even ox-gard per cruisers' recommendation.

nah that soft line was me - part of the rocky road outfitters 6 inch lift. I'll have to check out the spring perch... it's part of their spring over axle setup. I'll try to bleed again - and i'll zip up that line so it doesn't catch on anything. Thanks!

I moved from DC to outside Apex / RDU / Triangle NC. It is a dream down here.

Also don't know if this is relevant but I'm not sure how much resistance the arm is supposed to have, I could move it up or down very easily.

Took some pictures. He's the view from the tailgate. I bought new hardware for the prop valve but haven't installed yet, zip tie is holding it at that angle

Roger that. just got excited at the prospect of potentially being able to bring liquids with me - especially with all that extra work of shifting manually i get thirsty

I'm intrigued but confused. I have mini console... But it has a shifter in it that I use for driving. Is the use case here for people that have an extra mini console and would I guess rest it on the seat next to them?

Sorry I know there have been posts on this before, and there's a good one in the write up. My 87 4wd 4.0 short bed - I can't seem to get the brakes where i would like them. I bled all four brakes and it seemed ok, maybe 75% stiffness i expected. I tried going through the factory bleeding procedure described in the posts here but it seemed to make it less "stiff". I have a view variables that may be contributing to the difficulty... 1. when i purchased the truck the original hardware for the rear proportioning valve was totally missing. It looks like it's still hooked up, although I can't definitively tell if it was "deleted" because I'm not sure what i would see... all hoses look "normal". I was able to move the valve arm up and down, and for the brake bleed procedure i opened the front caliper, raised the arm to like 11 oclock or 1 oclock depending on your perspective, and re-bled the rear... but the brake light never came on indicating it had "shuttled" open. 2. This may be the issue, but i had self bleeders installed in the rear. So while i can open the rear, it's not really "open", it's just open so when i push the brake it will pump the air out but not suck anything in. Is there a video anywhere of the shuttling / brake bleed procedure? Can't seem to find anything. Sorry for newb-ness but i guess i'm trying to hunt down where the source of my user error is.

Trying to clean this rig up and hopefully cut down on the oil and sludge leaks I got the fel pro valve cover gasket. I figured while I was doing this I would do one of cruiser54s tips and hack up the valve cover tubes that suck oil. But first I had to clean this nightmare. In my kitchen sink because it fit. I actually responded to a fire call and the wife ended up taking over and cleaning all the sludge I couldn't get. Dawn dish soap. Got these valve flute things clean. Marked an inch down to cut them Deburred on the grinding wheel. Gently. Went back over them by hand with a file. Then put them in the drill press and drilled out the half inch hole. Primed the valve cover. Then painted it gold. Like the old mack trucks.

Nah I'm not really getting a new cover unless there were a great reason just was looking around and saw the topic. Good points.

So since this topic is being discussed - I just put a new rear driveshaft in and decided to take off the diff and clean the gears and what not (Dana 35). I put in a quart of gear oil and then realized i didn't have enough so i drove to the store and put another 3/4 quart in - it sounded fine and wasn't far but looking back I wasn't sure if that was ok or not oh well. Anyway, the topic of new aftermarket diff covers is on my mind because i sheared off the head of one of the diff cover bolts. But there seems to be no consensus on how much gear oil to put in with a bigger aftermarket Diff. I've heard both arguments - fill it til it drips, or only fill it with factory recommended amount. Thoughts?

F Sorry man that looks like no fun

Let me know if you find that oil leak. I got a new valve cover gasket but it's a nasty mess underneath.

Forgot to post this but while I was in the middle of the lift install I decided to put in hood louvers from rod louvers... They come raw and with a ton of stainless screws and nuts. Had the truck all jacked up while working on the lift but needed a break from the suspension work while I waited for the new iron rock track bar to come in. Here I measured and taped in place, then drilled pilot holes, but before drilling all the holes I installed some of the hardware along one edge to hold them in place for drilling the rest of the holes. Once I got the holes drilled I measured half an inch in from each hole and put a dot. Then I took a straight edge and traced the dots to mark the cutout. After using the angle grinder to cut the shape I knew I needed to paint to prevent rust. I was thinking about what color I would eventually want to paint the truck and I like military /desert tan. I also know from working on my custom motorcycles that I like being able to touch up a ding or scratch here and there. Rustoleum has this truck bed paint in tan. Truck bed liner hides imperfections well and I thought id see what it looked like. I painted the louvers bed liner in black.

Here - I put the twist tie there so it would stay in position. It appears that at least since I've owned the truck there has been no linkage to the proportioning valve.