billyblankss

Ahh i see now that the linkage is not there and I don't think ever was. I'll look to try to find that part or i'm guessing maybe people fab something up idk.

I have this exact problem right now when the lights are on. I assumed it was a ground that was bad based on all the ground issues this truck is known to have. You may not need to buy new sockets, just trace the grounds from each of the sockets and make a better ground. That's what i'm going to try - will update you.

Update - duct taped over the rear yoke and put the rear driveshaft in the bed. Drove in 4 hi for about 60 miles about half city and half highway. Made it home in one piece. Definitely felt vibration in fourth doing about 65mph. Could be the fact I have yet to get the front end alignment done post-lift, could also be the tires and wheels I put on that were lightly used take offs from a Rubicon, I know at least one of the wheel weights fell off while I was moving them before installing. I also noticed I really heard the clutch and gears engage /disengage when shifting. Could be more noticeable because the floor is just rubberized metal, no carpet, and I'm not used to listening while the truck is in 4wd when shifting idk. Gonna order the new driveshaft today. Then spend some time going back over everything I touched when installing the lift, and greasing and torquing anything I may have missed. Side note I'm looking for a guide on the proportioning valve brake setup. When I got the truck the rear proportioning valve lever wasn't connected to the axle. I have yet to find a good picture of what the stock setup looks like. I received a proportioning valve bracket with the lift kit to compensate for the new height but I had nothing to reference and not knowing what it looked like connected it's been confusing. The braking was OK, but weak. I had to change bleeder valves in the rear drum brakes because they were too seized up to bleed after the lift. I put in the quick bleeder screws as a replacement. It's made it fairly simple to bleed but i haven't gotten super comfy since that they were working fantastic yet.

Nevermind, i think i found them: https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/dana-spicer-u-bolt-kits/21761

I've seen those - any idea where to pick some up? Those little u bolts look way tougher. Did not want to get into a SYE install at this point. Maybe over the winter but i'd really like to drive for awhile. I'm hoping you're not on to something with the pinion angle point... It is a 6.5 inch lift give or take and i'm hoping that was just enough to do it. I'm going to get some duct tape like you guys mentioned, go there and disconnect the drive shaft and tape over the hole in the rear and take backroads as much as I can i suppose. I know when i was driving it before the thing came out it was smooth on the highway, it only became a problem while i was downshifting a bunch to slow down for a turn. That could be just coincidence idk.

While i'm looking at replacement drive shafts - nobody markets one specific to the MJ - can I be sure the same year XJ (87) would be the same for me? Every site even rough country has a driveshaft for the XJ...

I'm going to have to google and learn about pinion angle. When i go to the toms site (https://4xshaft.com/products/xj-cherokee-rear-drive-shaft-double-cardan?rq=mk_jeep~md_cherokee-xj~yr_any) i could use advice on what i should be looking for. They can make a stock type setup for $239 - if i take the measurement as you described and give them that in the custom length and they make a stock type one would that cause any problems? Because I can upgrade, to the double cardan type for 300 (or 319 if i have the X spline instead of the S Spline which i'm going to google and learn about haha), but then i have to also purchase the slip yoke eliminator (https://4xshaft.com/products/np231-slip-yoke-eliminator) for 250, or worse 500 if i have a 242J transfer case (https://4xshaft.com/collections/jeep-xj-products/products/sye-242hd). I'm going to read about and learn about everything since this was a serious blindspot in my comanche knowledge. But i need to decide between getting the stock setup for 239 or the double cardan and slip yoke eliminator for anywhere between 550 and 820... which is a lot to me. It's not totally out of the question, but i just don' tknow how much of an impact the difference makes. Is there a payback period or a reliability gain that makes it all worth it? Or is the custom length option definitely a no go because i have a pretty aggressive difference in height between the transfer case or wherever the driveshaft connects and the axle? Really appreciate all the advice!

This may be the motivation I needed. It would be a nightmare to go an hour to his family's house, measure the driveshaft, go home order parts, wait for delivery, drive out and work on it in their yard. Did you take the whole rear drive shaft out?

Yeah I ended up leaving it at my buds house and he gave me a ride back. Now I need to order parts to take back to his house and install. But to be honest I'm confused at how to determine the proper length of a new drive shaft. Even if I knew the stock measurement I currently have I'm not really sure how to determine how much longer it needs to be. I already spent a couple grand upgrading and lifting and a whole month of my time installing and figuring everything out on this truck ... I hate the feeling of not being sure if something is about to give out on me. My buddy recommended Tom woods but I am not sure what to get and I'm definitely not sure what custom length I need or even what to get. https://4xshaft.com/products/xj-cherokee-rear-drive-shaft-double-cardan?rq=mk_jeep~md_cherokee-xj~yr_any Its also tough to measure now it's an hour away. What did you get, a longer yoke? I think whatever I do I also need to at least replace the I think it's called X joint at the other end of the driveshaft because the caps came off and all the tiny pins came out. Id love to figure out whatever is easiest and most reliable to order so I can go rescue my truck and get her home. I don't think he has a big garage there so I'd be doing it just under the shady tree where it's parked 😑

Should jamming it in be feasible I feel like I can get close with just pushing on it. I'll buy a whole new shaft if that's what it takes but yeah gotta get home

Ok point taken. I see they sell t case drop puckz that are like an inch. I could fab something and maybe that would make the angle just better enough to get home? Still don't know how to reconnect though

I do appreciate the words of wisdom by the way. Here's me right now... Randomly in rougemont NC...

Ok. Not even an hour I'm guessing to get home eh... What's the fix, would a t case drop give me an inch to keep it together to get home to my dogs? Ha no but really I'm stranded so I gotta get creative. Disconnect and put it in 4wd and drive home with the front drive only?

Hey - Roadside help needed... I'm kidding I'm waiting for AAA right now but I was driving to my buddy's house to enjoy the fourth, just finished putting the six inch lift on so off I went with the wife. And a couple miles before I get there, slowing down and down shifting my drive shaft disconnected and fell. I'm guessing because the lift put it at a wierd angle and I did not buy a slip yoke eliminator or t case drop. Any idea how to reconnect? I'm about to get it towed to my buds house and I have my tools. Will need to get home to rescue my dogs so I am hoping it's something I can put back in place but google isn't helping much. Attached are photos from my back looking up. Your advice is appreciated!

Thanks for all the advice. I ended up buying the Iron Rock Offroad one that was linked here. I thought about the Rustys kit but they wanted 83 bucks for shipping... just crazy.

This is good advice. The only thing i wasn't sure about was going from an articulating end joint / heim joint to a double shear setup would make it difficult to install or ride differently. But it looks like I'm in for 210. Or, rusty's has one with a frame stiffener as well for 220: https://www.rustysoffroad.com/rusty-s-track-bar-hd-track-bar-package-xj.html

Be honest, you think it will have an impact on/off road? I'm going through the effort of trying to drill out the old bracket and of course I'm worried it will wobble... But i'm also surprised at how expensive some of these simple parts are. The IRO isn't really that expensive but i'm trying to gauge how important it is. There's a lot of '1 ton' steering upgrades out there and i'm trying to figure out if i should wait and upgrade to that or if this will meaningfully accomplish what that would provide. I appreciate the feedback!

Yeah i'm tempted to get that but i already have this adjustable track bar with the old style joint on it. I'm filing this under the list of things i wish i knew before i did the lift...

OK - i got the bracket off finally. and I can see the top of the joint / nut where the castle nut was. But it's stuck in there and there's no way for me to tap it out from what i can tell because the cup thing protects the top of that bolt/nut from getting tapped. I used probably half a bottle of a propane torch on it. Grease dripped everywhere and it smoked pretty hardcore but that thing does not want to come out. I assumed i needed to replace that track bar bracket but I don't know what it's proper name is because I can't find anything online. Any recommendations on how to search for this part? Or even better, how to pop this stupid bolt out?

This really is the best community. I went to bed last night totally hating how dirty and tired and frustrated I had gotten and even woke up this morning dreading going out there to my shed and looking at the truck and all the tools I left out in frustration. This was helpful. Going to eat 20 lbs of burgers and dogs and speed this thing up. Can't wait to finish this and start the control arm brackets.

Hahaha yeah damn. Any recommendations since you went down this road before me? Just a stock replacement?

Damn yeah it's super stuck in there now. I am probably going to torture myself a while longer because I desperately wanted to get it done this weekend but now I'm probably ordering the parts and waiting again haha this truck...

Well at this point I cut the old track bar off through the bushing and bolt. But the remaining part is totally seized in there and don't have sufficient equipment to drill through it under the truck. I tried propane torch until it caught fire but nah. I'm gonna try taking it off via removing the bracket like stroker dude said and maybe throw it on the drill press I guess

I'm in the middle of doing the rocky road six inch lift and the front end is really getting tricky. Can't fit the control arms back in after I replaced the springs... Oh well I'm working on the track bar replacement with the adjustable track bar and I can't get the thing out. The bolt with the castle nut up top is just not even wiggling. I put a pickle fork between the bushing and the bar and have pounded in every direction but it's not getting any closer to loose. Any suggestion? If it helps, I'm very much replacing this track bar but I'm worried it is in such a difficult spot I don't see how I'll be able to cut it.

Thought you should know - you were right. I had to disconnect the sway bars to drop the axle to put in the new springs. Well one side was fine i disconnected the bolt on the axle. The other i tried to get fancy and remove the nut on the top of the sway bar connect. Sheared it right off. I did douche it with PB blaster but i should have known. Any recommendations on replacements? I like the look of Rusty's but man would i like to spend less than 100 since i already shelled out tons on the rest of the lift. Then again if they're that important i don't want that to be the weak link in the whole suspension. Pun intended i guess.