comanche12

haha thats what I'm kept think and i can do those built method as Cracker did with his D60s. i just took some pics of my D60, my brothers front D60 plus my rear 9" mine- don't worry ill por15 it up and paint black with blue differential cover my brother front axle my rear 9"

I don't know if it will work or what bolt pattern you need but you can get a complete Ford explorer axle from a 1996-2000 Ford explorer and take all the hardware off and apply it to the 9". These axles cost me $68 on half off day at the junk yard here in LA. so thats sound like ur recommend me to go to location junkyard to find oem parts from explorer? why didnt i think like that.. hmmm thank you, sir Sean B.

The 35 spline 9" would be better and lighter. The downfall is the pinion on the 9" that is 2.25" lower than the centerline of the axle and the fact it is very short pinion leaves it in harms way of rocks and what not. (the Dana 60 pinion is 1.125" below the centerline of the axle tube and the pinion is a couple of inches longer getting it high and 'out of the way'). ALso, the Ford OEM 9" stamped housings are usually 3/16" thick so they wear out pretty quick being drig over rocks. I am building another Dana 60 right now and am taking MANY pics so I can do a tech write up on it. Regarding price, you'll need to spend money on gears, shafts, torino ends, ford explorer brakes, leaf brackets, master install kit, axle bearings, differential, brake lines and possibly a 1310 yolk (most D60s will be 1350 yolks). You will also need an axle alignment bar and the necessary pucks (of which you can borrow from a friend or what not) and a significant (220V+) welder. Just price out all this and you are about there in regards to price. You already have the Dana 60 housing so you don't need to spend any money on that. cheers Personally, I would save your money up and just buy the necessary brakes for the 9" and save up and get one of these third members and it'll be an AWESOME axle: http://www.truehi9.com this website is great! i agree with the pinions measure clearance to centerline but i remember there two different size of 9". which is size of bearing inside. I gotta get a axle removed and measure the bearing inside so i can know which get either pre-00' or mid 90' explorer brakes i can't remember what exact year of explorer but i will research more. I'm totally agree with ur opinion about save the money u[p but the problem is that my 9" rear have NONE of brake parts. which i have to get wheel hub, caliper, pad, disc(rotor), brake line, proportionate (sp?), parking cable, etc. which is average totally 300ish dollars? the dana 60 is just need spring preach, bracket for shock, new brake lines and seals which total less 100 dollars? i don't know man...

hmm interesting time to think whats would it cause hard to start after warm up :smart:

hmm yea full float but i think my dana 60 is a 30 too. i gotta count them again. my rear 9" is 35 spline as i remember. more info about dana 60 built? average total cost for build it? I'm in currently very serious budget (no job)

well possible a spark plug with wrong temp range? like a f40 that have difficult to start up after warm up because of wrong spark plug temp range

true, thats what I'm been thinking and I'm running on 31 now but will plan to running on 35 or 36 on 5x5 15r/10.5 btw its in my garage (its my brother's which he gonna put it in his cj) but decide gonna give it to me i can take pic of it if you want my axles r already wide, its been swapped to dana 45 front and 9" rear with 6" lift without any backspacing. plus will planning to cut the fenders and add the aftermarket one but who knows

hello guys, i reneclty got offered free for rear dana 60 to replace my rear 9" but dana 60 because my current rear 9" is all miss rear brake system so i can't off road without rear brake support and no parking brake either. both r 4.10 gears and measured both which is about 68 to 70 inches wide. most all i need to able swap is just get new spring preach brackets and wield it on dana 60 to fit my 6" lift comanche anyway my point is that should i get dana 60 and swap my 9" rear? edit: dana 60 was from old diesel truck that been left in barn for longtime.

frams filter was made of cardboard as i heard AND i had seen inside of it and yes its actually made of cardboard. I'm sure not all of frams have cardboard but that what i did saw inside of frams cansiter

:( god its make me want to do mine asap cuz I'm plan to remove seat and replace carpet with por-15 and bedliner plus bucket seat but ahhh damn you to UTI for give me no job :(

well i did and checked all wires that i can find.. i don't see any wiring diagra that show: -white/black -lt blue/red -white/orange -vio/lt green -gray/dk blue -lt green -dk grn/blk -blk/lt green or lt green/blk ??? :hmm: BUMP BUMP! i guess i gotta get new connector with right wire pins

carwashed my subaru then decide to carwash my jeep as for first time and its feel so different compare to my subaru haha :roll: my jeeps red is too flat and can't tell if its already clean or not. its look same as before after carwash :shake: so its make me want to paint my jeep dark flat blue :thumbsup:

sweetness! finally see someone have mache daul exhuast which I'm plan to do but this one look badass! :thumbsup: I'm wonder where did u split it at? like Y split pipe or something? more infos :)

i thought if bad cps can possible cause no starting because cps can indicate the TDC of no. 1 piston before pcm control the ignition system? but nvm i didnt read that there no CRANK. my bad

totally understand how do you feel with chasing with electrical gremlin :bowdown: _what did i do with my mj_ i just removed my alternator and just put new decal on rear window. _BEFORE_ _AFTER_ and a better pic of my taillight mod with daytime picture i know my jeep logo on tail gate is crappy but heyyy I'm planning to get replace tail gate with new black glossy sticker of jeep

sweet ride. dude i always want one and put it back on my bed of mj and go to off road :)

well i did and checked all wires that i can find.. i don't see any wiring diagra that show: -white/black -lt blue/red -white/orange -vio/lt green -gray/dk blue -lt green -dk grn/blk -blk/lt green or lt green/blk ??? :hmm:

here the wires color that connector have right now I'm sure its missing something -white/black -lt blue/red -white/orange -blue -vio/lt green -gray/dk blue -gray -light green -dk green/black -tan -black -black/lt green or lt green/black I'm sure its miss: -vio-ECT -tan/green-alternator -lt blue-oil pressure etc. -

awesome! which make me want do mine but wonder if there any DIY for it? i don't want to screw it up without know what do with it :oops: :roll: :D

oh yea i suggest you to do it, everytime i got outside i love to stare at my mjs new taillight style 8)

i have that pdf, thanks tho but i mean that guage cluster from 1990's its little different. only same color wires are fuel, ground, white with black trim, thats all i can remember i can't find alternator wire(tan with green), ect wire(purple), etc. edit: i got feel that someone who worked on it had been custom the wire like remove the purple wire because i got the separate purple wires and its guided to the other panel area with aftermarket gauges of ect and oil pressure. :fs1: i don't want them i rather have them as turbo psi, fuel/air ratio, etc. not ECT and oil pressure which have in the cluster gauges??? :headpop: so my point is i think that the last owner removed the alternaor, oil pressure and ect wires out of the cluster gauges' connector (no. C203)? :hmm:

also I'm soon got do the conversion from speed cable mechanic to electronic and rpm sensor?(crankshaft sensor or something else) plus new ect sensor and oil pressure sensor

do you know what year the xj was? no idea but I'm sure its from 1990's. look exact same from this. http://www.jeepin.com/features/gaugeswap/

i didnt know that either but thanks bro! ill add that mod on my next list :) :cheers:

sorry for :hijack: i noticed some of you guys have wj booster so I'm become get more curious why is that? better brake?