Zenobian_84

Sometimes I wish I had taken more time to make it look right, like yours does. :eek: Nice job :thumbsup:

Call me picky, but I'd rather give up the money to a fellow member on the site than someone looking to make a quick $30 on ebay. Besides, most of the badges I've seen on ebay run for $30+ and they all need a paypal (which I prefer not to do) Thanks for the link though, gonna keep searching. :hmm:

You know what kind of shape the bedliner is in? Or how much he wants for it?

Ah... sweet. Thanks! Have you noticed any difference from upgrading to the 94 cover instead of the 87 one?

Need some help here amigos. I know that there's a varying degree in difference from the Renix I6 Valve Covers vs. the HO I6 ones (better baffle systems, larger holes for CCV etc etc.) but I needed to know if the 2.5 Valve covers changed at all (because I have oil leaking from all 3 of the top hole points on my MJ) From what I can gather there was only one type of valve cover for the 2.5 from 86-mid 90's(?) and it seems prone to most of the problems that plague the Renix era I6 covers. Is there some other upgraded cover that the 2.5's came with? If so, would pulling them from YJ's (early - mid 90's) be my best bet in getting myself one, and does anyone have a picture of one? As always, I value everyone's input :bowdown:

More updates, nothing really amazing though. :shake: This past weekend, I finished the driver's door panel restoration. This was even more of a PITA than the passenger side. Half the cardboard backing was seriously messed up, and it was falling apart pretty badly. Accomplished all that Sunday, and got around to finishing installing the speakers this afternoon. I can finally listen to some god d*mn music when I'm driving around! So, to celebrate this fact, I went out and bought some tunes. That's right, Joe Satriani. Hell yeah.

Bump. Anyone?

I have one of those rims right now. The thing is virtually rust free. If I could find one matching rim for these.... I would trade the Saw Blade in a heartbeat.

The small tube at the back of the block (just in case I have the CCV and PCV mixed up. Been reading too many threads on the subject tonight ) Just wanted to know what's the best way to clean that line, (other than ordering a new part from Nappa etc.) I've read about taking apart the head and scrubbing the orifices and baffle down, but I'm not too sure about all that. I've also read someone posted on here about using weed-eater cable to unclog the line....? :hmm: Also, if I took these things apart, does the CCV line just pull right out? or do I have to carefully unhinge it from something? Same question goes with the air hose line in the front.

Looked back there when I bought the Jeep, and there was slight leakage, but when I swapped a new MC in there, I cleaned everything up and haven't seen leakage since. I had a feeling it could be that, but I'm going to take another look at the fuse box in the morning and see if everything is as it should be down there. :cheers:

Sorry to dig this thread up from the grave, but will the Nappa mentioned parts work for the 2.5 instead of the 4.0? I have the CCV system and am looking into getting a new CCV hose and breather connection from the air box to the top of the head. Picture of my engine (- the black tape around the air supply hose) And if these parts aren't compatible, would minor modifications to them make them fit?

Been a while, some happenings have occurred (quit my dead end job that was getting me nowhere :hmm: ) but I'm still finding time to work on the truck. Got a few things picked up and worked on. Started working on fixing my door panels. As you can see, they're in pretty grungy shape. Everything was pretty moldy as well. It didn't spread to the leather though, thank god. Everything down to the bare minimum... After looking through anotherjeff's thread, I have to agree with him. Getting these staples off the plastic top piece and the cardboard backing is a serious PITA. :fs1: Although these little buggers might be even harder to get out. For whatever reason, they just wouldn't twist out. :headpop: The diagram/outline of the passenger door panel. First in pencil, then in in sharpie. Not too hard here. At my friend's huge house with garage with half mock up. After cutting the panel out and the holes for the armrest, window crank, and speaker; and I gorilla glued the plastic piece back on and clamped it. Speaker hole was iffy because I thought I had lost the diagram that was for cutting a speaker hole for the Pioneer's I bought. Unfortunately, it was simply under my bed, so I had to make due at the time. :doh: Won't when I do the driver's side though... Everything stapled down and put back together. Didn't get a picture of it inside the truck when I got everything put back together. It looks and feels better, and more solid. Now I just have to install the speaker on the passenger side, along with doing the driver's side panel.

Tried doing that, and the fan will run at lower speeds. I don't know what happened, but all of a sudden, it started working like normal again. SO it is neither the resistor pack nor the fan... Another electrical gremlin to add to my growing list I suppose :doh: Although I did check to see if a fuse blew... but found something odd. The PO has several fuses of the wrong wattage in spots. He had a 30 watt in the radio instead of a 15, and a 20 instead of a 25 in the blower spot and just.... Jesus christ. Should have taken a better look at the fuse box when I first bought the truck.... Going to have a long day ahead of me tomorrow.

Ah... ok. thanks :wrench:

Driving home from work a few days ago and I decide to fire up my heater to see if it works (after god knows how long it had been since last turned on) and to my surprise, it fires right up, and is blowing hot. The problem is, yesterday and today when I go to test it again, and just fiddle with the A/C controls, nothing turns on. After spending 5 minutes flipping on all the switches, and moving the handle from hot to cold, I get nothing. I figure it might be the truck has to warm up, so I try again after 20 minutes of driving and still nothing. :redX: The only thing I can think of is that a fuse possibly blew (which I haven't had the time to check due to work constraints), but other than that, would anything else cause the whole system to just stay shut off like this? Input is appreciated, as always.

Pretty awesome thread you have here man. Can't wait to see the 4WD conversion :thumbsup:

Looking to get one of these. Drop me a line if you have one, and is in relatively decent condition. A picture of the badge would also be appreciated. Shipping is to 32778, and local pickup can also be arranged (if in Central FL area) :cheers:

I have a full set of the second pic's you show of the rims in good condition. They have good tires on them to. I'll take $200 for the 4 rims and tires, but I live in North Georgia If you are ever of this way. Sure would like to get a hold of them, but I doubt I'll ever be headed towards Northern Georgia anytime soon. :(

If no one has one of these laying around (who would? :hmm: ) then I would like some sort of bedliner that would fit inside of a SWB. I see people throwing these out a lot... I'll take it off your hands if that's the case! :D Thanks.

I'm looking for 4 matching rims of either type of picture. I have 3 of the first pictured rims on my truck already, with another OEM Jeep rim, but I'm looking to get a complete set. If you have what I need and are within 1-2 hr driving distance from the Tavares/Mt.Dora/Leesburg area, gimme a pic of what you have, and the price you want for them! Any offer is gladly accepted (as long as the rims are usable IE: No dents or serious rust!)

Ha, yeah :brows: Tell me about it :fs2:

Wow, pretty surprised I couldn't find this thread. :eek: $17 for that part is wayyyy better than $100. Thanks Cheyenne!

Greetings all, hope all of you have a good 4th, (even though it's a bit early to start celebrating ) The problem I've been having is that my MJ's stock window sealant trim pieces are deteriorating, and falling apart (big surprise :shake: ) As you can see from the first picture, I have a rag on each window sealing the sides; this piece is known as the "Division Bar" *see 5 on 2nd picture*. On my MJ, both Division bar pieces are not there and I need to get some replacements. What I would like to know is since the 2nd picture is from http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-doors/replacement-door-parts/cherokee-xj-front.htm and most things that are XJ if 4 door are compatible with the MJ.... 1. Is this a correct diagram to be basing decisions on what will fit in my MJ doors (if not, can someone point me in the direction of a correct picture?) 2. If this is an accurate picture, and the Division bar is what I need, does anyone know where I can get 2 of this pieces of trim for under $100 other than a Pick and Pull? Both Jeep4x4 and TeamCherokee want over $100 for just one of these pieces, and I don't have that kind of money to spend! As always, any and all help is appreciated. :cheers:

Long time no see. Been working pretty much the entirety of this month. Looking forward to this weekend, and my $350 paycheck coming in Friday. :eek: :thumbsup: Then it's off to the junkyards and the auto shops with a couple of friends of mine. Just thought I'd post a few pics with some updates for the truck. Nothing really fancy, but some decent progress non-the-less. My dad helping me clean the truck this past weekend at the dealership where he works. I've only cleaned it one time since I've gotten it, and I can't stand it! When I had my last car (a POS Pontiac Sunfire), I cleaned that car once every two weeks. I'm not saying I'm a clean freak, but I like being able to show off my MJ whenever I go over to friends houses. Just a picture of me cleaning the seats, and what I used to clean them. That "Glisten X" is a great cleaning agent for leather seats, and I highly recommend it for any car detailers out there, or any one looking for a good leather cleaner. When I finished cleaning everything that was inside the cab (seat, dash, etc) the interior came out looking as close to original as I've ever seen. I am so glad my dad's a detailer ;) A picture of everything getting washed. Soap suds a plenty, with my rags on the door sides to prevent water from seeping in. Hopefully I can fix that problem this weekend :fs1: My girlfriend and I at the store picking up some things. Truck is still looking pretty good after 3 days, (not to mention the good looking girl inside :D who you can't see due to the glare. Crappy phone is crappy :doh: ) ------ Anyways, hopefully I can get over to a few junkyards this weekend. Going to try and get as many parts as $ will allow, and as many as my truck's bed can hold :rotfl2: Might even try to pick up some spare parts to sell on here, so if anyone out there is looking for something in particular, I might be able to snag it for you. :thumbsup:

There was another thread on there done by Fire4755 about him making a cupholder for fit in the notch between the shifter and his bench seat. This thread is for those of us who, (for whatever reason :nuts: :shake: ) want to keep the original bench seat in instead of doing the swap over to the XJ buckets like so many others have. Hold onto your butts, 'cuz this one isn't gonna be pretty! :hateputers: ------------ First of all, to get the ball rolling so to speak. Head over to your local hardware store, and pickup some cheap, 1/2 plywood (In my case, Home Depot, and the wood was the second cheapest at just over $3.00 for a good 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 slab) Then what I proceeded to do was cut that piece directly in half, giving myself 2 equal sizes. (At this point, it doesn't matter how big the sizes are, it's just to shear down the overall size of the wood so you can work with something smaller.) After doing so, I trimmed it down even more, just to get the first starting piece on the far left side. Next, you're going to want to go measure the spacing horizontally between the U pieces of the bench, as pictured below (another crappy cell-phone picture... :fs1: ) Which, for those of you who aren't able to see the tape (myself included) it measures out to about 12 and 1/2 in. Give or take a half inch due to falling seat padding pushing out, I decided to go with 13 inches, just to be safe; along with finding the direct center of the wood (no real reason, but it makes measuring easier, mainly because I used to do things like this in my high school drafting class all the time.) Now that you have a nice long piece of wood, you want to measure just how wide it needs to be, once again, since my padding pushes out, the measurement is up to you. The 13x7 in piece of wood. Preferably cut 2 pieces of this equal length, for the top of the holder, and the bottom. As you can see, it just barely fits with it's rectangular shape. I didn't get an image of the next step, but basically the next step is to sand down or cut pieces of the wood off into hexagonal shapes to be able to fit inside the crevices of that U shape. This step only took me about 10 minutes to get the shape right. I probably sound like a broken record, but whatever shape you want the corners or shape to be is up to you. I just did the bare minimum to meet my own requirements of fitting. Nothing fancy, and the picture is with the wood sanded down. Notice the convenient cell-phone / mp3 slot I cut out, generally because I'm on the road a lot and my phone likes to die when I least expect it. For the next step, you need to get either blocks of wood (like I used) or whatever you can find to attach the two pieces together. I happened to have some thick wood laying around I used in another project a year or so ago, so I used this. The measurements of my blocks are 2 1/2 x 2 1/2. Basically a square. After you have the blocks or whatever it is you plan on attaching the top to the bottom with, you can go ahead and attach them, if you don't feel like painting them. I on the other hand, wanted to try and match the interior of my truck. So here's the shot of everything being primed with some $3.00 wood primer spray paint. Nothing too over the top. Now that you have everything primed, you can get some wood paint to match the color of your interior, or whatever you would like. I went with some Krylon Indoor/Outdoor Glossy paint to use as the primary color (Global Blue) from Walmart. Total cost for a can was about $2.50 and $2.50 for Krylon primer. As you can see, not bad for $5.00 :thumbsup: Once everything is painted with at least 2 coats of both primer and paint,(or not) assemble your pieces someplace where you can attach everything. For me, that would be inside my dining room because it's been 100 degrees here in Central FL for the last week, and I don't like working in extreme heat. :fs1: The next step would be drilling holes for the screws to give everything an easier time fitting. I went with 1/4 inch wood screws from Lowe's for about $3.00? for a small box with like 100 or so (not that you'll be using that many :rotfl2: ) and a 1/4 inch drill bit for drilling the holes. My spacing is 2 inches apart for each grouping of holes (refer 3 pictures up from here) and should be done on both the top and bottom pieces of wood; mainly for durability. Mockup picture on how my pieces would fit together. Now, once you have everything screwed together however you decided to fashion things, you should have a cup-holder that vaguely resembles the below picture The most important thing I can stress during this part is to have everything centered perfectly, unless you want a giant crack running through one of your wood pieces :doh: :fs2: (the straight black line on the left piece was just bad shadowing caused from an odd cut) ------------ If you somehow managed to get this far, the below image is what you should now be seeing! A completely finished and usable cupholder. Custom tailored to your individual needs. The end price I ended up paying for the materials to make this was roughly $15 :thumbsup: Hope this helps those of you in need out there. :cheers: