Dammerung

Funnily enough, the JY I called had it listed on there too Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for your replies; it makes me feel better about not getting the rear end. The guy I was talking to wanted $750 for it, which I thought was a tad bit too high. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m gonna pose a hypothetical to you guys. Let’s say you found a Dana 44 axle from a 1 ton Jeep Comanche. How much would you pay to get that rear end? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Also I’m lookin for the part numbers for the elbows on top of the valve cover and the little grommets too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Reviving this thread. Just got my VC powder coated, but now I need to find some nice clean vc bolts and studs. Anyone know about any kits? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had a trailer brake unit installed on mine by a previous owner. Rear lights also didn’t work. I would redo the ground connections because that was a major issue with mine, as the factory connectors suck. Also check the ground behind the driver side taillight. It was giving me issues so I sanded the metal down and put a bolt and nut through it, though I’d recommend relocating the ground. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It looks like it’s in back order. There’s a message in the description that says he’s looking for a US assembler for them. I hope he can find someone. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve seen and heard of some scanners for the renix. I know that there was the one guy in NJ who made them but I think he’s out for now. Are there any other scanners for the renix engines that are available? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Slightly, I think. Idle when parked is at the mark below 1000, so around 700. It still bounces (not as badly though), so it’s not entirely finished. Also, when I put it in gear it between 500 and back to the first mark. I don’t know what else there is to be honest. It’s still seems like a better improvement over what I had before. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did bypass, now reading 0.5 ohms. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Started tip. Sensor is reading 10.5 ohms, will update soon Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Okay, I replaced the IAC and it had some affect. When I first started up, it hit idle RPMs and stayed there. But it still bounced around as usual during idle. I’ll try cruisers tip, and I’m gonna reclean the c101 connector on the firewall. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just retried the test and now my idle hasn’t changed. Plugged in or unplugged it still idles the same. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Unplugged. Should have specified. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I checked the manifold bolts and they all seemed tight. I’ve removed the IAC and my idle will run very high, so I think it at least has an effect on idling performance. Also sorry for the signature, I’m using this on iPhone and still haven’t figured it all out. I have a 1988 4.0 liter with the AW4. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve made multiple posts about the idle on my 1988 4.0 liter, and now I want to list all my symptoms that I believe may be from a single overlying issue. Firstly, on startup my truck will sometimes hit 2000-2500 RPMs. Other times it will hit around 1500 and come back down. I have replaced the idle air control valve but I used a junkyard part. It’s unknown if it is also bad, but replacing it seemed to have lowered the frequency of high rpm startups. Next, when idling, my RPMs move between ~550 and ~800 RPMs. I thought the idle air control valve would help in this case but it has not. Also, when in reverse, my truck will sometimes drop RPMs further, bouncing between around 300 and 700 RPMs. I don’t know what may be the issue in this case, but I performed a cleaning on the oil dipstick stud as well as redid the eyelets, which did not help my idle. My truck was also “modified” with a trailer brake unit that I mostly removed. It’s also unknown if that has affected anything. I’m at my wits end about this, and I don’t know what to do anymore.

Anyone have any recommendations for ratcheting wrenches? I’m getting real tired of having to maneuver around the engine bay and dash with a wrench because a regular ratchet just won’t fit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, a change of events happened. The car has now gone to the junker. A combination of the bank owning it, the original owner potentially being dead depending on who owned it (and subsequent confusion with the DMV), and a general need for an overhaul on the car all led to her goin to the yard. Pulled the badges off before she was taken though so I guess that’s a plus.

Good news: the car actually owes $160 in fees to register. Bad news: apparently the bank still owns it and it will need to be smogged. For right now, because the house it’s at will be sold in the next few weeks, she may be coming home with us. No junker for now though.

Just saw this up on Facebook. If only I had the money... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bought a new ACDelco Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just ordered an alternator off of RA. Are they reputable or should I try to cancel while I still can? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The car was originally brown. I think the white may be some sort of primer or something, I’m not entirely sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like the rain took care of washing Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So you’re telling me this is NOT the kick down cable? I’m just trying to adapt what I’ve found out on newer Cherokees. This was the most similar thing to the kick down cable they were talking about. You’re supposed to press that button, push the yellow thing all the way in, push the throttle pedal inside the truck, and it should self adjust. At least from what others have said. If there’s a different or better way of doing it, please inform me. Also, “RPMs sticking” was the best way for me to describe the symptom. I don’t know a whole lot about cars and trucks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk