Dammerung

Tried that and it just locks in after I push the button. Even if I push the throttle down in the truck, it won’t move. I manually pulled it out to see if there was any change and it still acted the same. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a 88 4.0 with the AW4. Whenever I’m driving and hit 45 mph, the transmission shifts into overdrive and RPMs drop to 1500. However if I push on the gas pedal after, I don’t really get any response. It will slightly increase RPMs. The only way it will pick up the throttle is if I fully floor it and it will “unstick” and it will hit 2000-3000 depending on how long I hold it. I haven’t had this problem until after I cleaned the c101 connector on the firewall. It doesn’t really affect me, but I don’t really want to have to floor it to try and get a quick acceleration past 45 mph. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My idle also bounces between 1000 and 650. Is this normal? Or can it be explained by the idle air controller? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On startup, my truck will hit 1500 and come down quickly or will reach higher numbers and stay up in the 2000-3000 rpm range for 30 seconds. Is there a way to fix this? I don’t want to be any harder on my engine then I have to. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Will a Chrysler 8.25 have a longer pinion length? I heard that the Dana 44 has an inch longer pinion. If so, do I need to cut the driveshaft or could I lift the truck? And if I had the chance, should I use the 8.25 or the Dana 44? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks like she’s going to the junker Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

All except 1 did. We pulled the spare home with us to check it and we’ll probably put it on when we go back. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We pulled my truck up to it and jumped it. It cranked but didn’t start. We poured fuel in the tank and some in the Carb and it ran. Been sitting for 25 years and she ran like a dream, and subsequently died lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Reviving this because I believe my 35 is not long for this world. It’s started to howl at 45+ mph. So I want to put out a “subtopic”: what’s the CHEAPEST rear to put in? I want to get a rear end ready just in case. I’ve thought about the Chrysler 8.25, but what years are good? I also want to find a limited slip if possible with the 8.25. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Finally pulled it. Used the Jeep of course - gotta earn its keep Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Another one we found yesterday Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My Dad found this on his way home from work. Apparently the guy also has another one covered up in the back. It may have been parked for a while as we’ve never seen it around. Also note the old Cherokee/Wagoneer in the back Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine was built in June and says it had the Olympic package, but now I’m not even sure anymore. I guess I’ll run the hockey sticks and the pioneer badge. I hate not knowing! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So people would have the hockey sticks and the Olympic sticker by the emblem? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If there’s some of those old Olympic edition stickers still around, do you think they will ever be reproduced? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On my window sticker it says I had the Olympic edition. So I’m thinking I might have had it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did our trucks come with the pioneer emblems on the front fenders? I’m looking to buy them sometime to make my truck complete if there’s a chance it’s what came with it originally. Also, since we’re discussing pioneer emblems, is there a good manufacturer of the Pioneer hockey stick stickers that go on the sides of our trucks? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah no problem. I remember that thing being kind of a pain in the @$$ when I took it off to put in my full gauge cluster. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The dash bezel should come off and you should be able to see the clip. It’s on the steering column cover panel things, right where they end under the cluster. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There’s a string in your gauge cluster that has a clip on the end, which is clipped onto your splint shifter. When the shifter moves, the string is pulled and the indicator moves positions. When they get old, the clip starts to slide off. Best chance is to take off your dash bezel and get an ice pick and move the clip. Be careful with the cluster wire though, it’s kind of weak. If there’s another way, someone else can point you to it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So if there’s a, for example, 1993 Jeep Cherokee, I’d be able to use it with no issues? Or what about a grand Cherokee? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don’t know, probably within the next week or 2. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Found this last week in my aunt’s old garage. She’s sadly passed on and the family is cleaning out her old hoarder house. Nobody wants it because they think it’s junk, so it might be mine to bring back to life. This will be my next project after I finish getting my Comanche on the road. Apparently this was also the first year of the 4th generation of Corollas. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk