90MJ

I was just skimming the comments quick at work but now that I am home I read them better. Signature is added

Haven't figured out how to add a sig or pic yet. 90 MJ 2.5 AX4 D35 Shortbox Sportruck as bare bones as they come

Is converting to 4wd as easy as installing a transfer, axle and driveshaft? Would the transfer bolt in place of the tailshaft on a 4spd by simply removing the tailshaft? Are any adapters required? Any special things I should know such as different year compatabilities or anything? Its a future project possibility but nothing set in stone yet. Just hoping to hear about other folks experiences

I will check it out. Thanks! The lower one in the pic is the one i found leaking.

Only thing i didn't do is spray the intake and vac lines, I'm out of brake cleaner. I DID however find an oil soaked vac line a few min ago that was really loose between the rearward top port on the valve cover going to the lower nipple on the intake side of the throttle body base. Replaced that and in reduced the idle to about 900-1000 now. I think i am just going to replace all of the vac lines. The PO let the valve cover leak way too long and everything is soaked under the hood. I replaced the valve cover gasket but can't seem to find the correct grommets for the top of it so it still steams oil mist out. I aspire to make this engine leak free. The firewall and everything looks mint when its cleanes off. Guess all that oil under the hood prevented rust over the years haha

So basically I need a new stepper motor it sounds like. Its fine as far as driving. Only an issue at idle. Do you think it will hurt anything if I push off replacing it for a while? What is the actual name of the part? When I looked up what you called it I had no results

Actually looking at this engine now, I don't see an IAC. Just fuel lines and what looks like a throttle position sensor? I don't know the 2.5 like I know the later 4.0's so any suggestion is appreciated. Its not extremely erratic but I would really prefer to get it idling at the correct rpms.

1990 2.5 is idling around 1200rpm on average. Sometimes as high as 1500, rarely idles at normal rpm. Has done it since I got it a few months ago. I was thinking IAC, any suggestions?

Diagnosed a bad starter and pushed it in my driveway. Yet another week down til i can buy the starter. This truck has been down for one thing or another all but 3 weeks since i bought it the first weekend in Nov..... anyone want to buy a '90 base model?

Why not something like this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Complete-6-Digital-Gauge-Set-in-White-LEDS-Black-Bezels-Intellitronix-/292852150099

Sounds like a plan, I will check it tomorrow. This looks like it is all original under the hood

I still feel it blowing from the dash vents, its just hot cold hot cold. Very intermittent. I will check the defrost vents on my drive to work soon. Isn't there a vacuum controlled valve under the hood for the heater or is it all undee the dash? Thanks

While driving I noticed the heat seems to come and go with different RPMs. The cooling system is full with no air pockets so I am assuming it may be somehow vacuum related maybe? It will blow warm air and then occasionally blows ice cold air then back to warm air again. The controls are also a bit tempermental, sometimes I have to slide it to a different setting then back to where I want it for it to blow from the locations I want. Any thoughts? I haven't owned a MJ in over 20 years until this one and haven't had this truck very long, maybe 5 weeks now, and have driven it maybe 3 of those weeks because I had that leaking fuel sender issue (what a nightmare!) so it is still extremely new again to me. Any common issues you guys know that cause this?

That is true Frank, but in my situation the T18 was pre-AMC and the bell would not bolt to the 4.0 due to a different pattern. The AMC years T18 was a different setup. I ended up using a T176/T150 bellhousing from a CJ and made a bell to trans spacer myself since they didn't offer one.

Advance adapters and Novak both told me it would defy physics to install an OBDII 4.0 in my J-truck and keep my T18 without major modification to my transmission because of the extremely long input shaft and I did it in a weekend for 80 bucks. They will tell you things like that about anything not off-the-shelf. Don't listen to that nonsense. Its held up great for going on 7 years now. Swapping a modern 4.0 into the truck was the best thing I ever did to it. The electrical portion can be painfully time consuming if you aren't good with wiring but once you figure that part out it is well worth it. Take the entire harness from the donor vehicle and also the gas pedal. I say go 4.0 and never look back. You won't regret it. Hesco sells a CPS relocation kit that puts the sensor to the crank pulley and that opens up transmission options for you. If you need a passenger drop driveline and want OD you could do the 4.0 with the AX5 or AX15 or NV3550 and a Dana 20 or 300. The adpaters for trans to t-case are readily available. You could always find a YJ chassis to swap your body onto as well. TJ chassis would be ideal but unfortunately it is longer than a YJ/CJ body. If you decide to do a 4.0 swap and need help with the electrical end I would be glad to help. Alot needs to be bypassed and the PCM needs to be "tricked" if the donor was an automatic, but it is doable. The fuel tank and sending unit/pump from the donor if possible as well or go with a frame mounted fuel pump. Also, depending on your location, I am going to have some FSJ wide track axles with 4.27 gears/front locker/welded rear available in the spring for cheap if you want them. Same bolt pattern wheels as your CJ 5x5.5

I have been dealing with the same problem for weeks now. Called every place i could find across the country. Midwest jeeps had a complete tank they wanted to sell me but wouldn't just remove the sending unit. It was 75 plus 60 shipping. Ended up ordering one for a 90XJ but i will need to modify it to work when it arrives. Seems the XJ route is the closest thing we can get for a replacement. Hopefully it works. Good luck

1990 Comanche SporTruck Build 9/89 2.5L TBI AX4 four speed manual 2 wheel drive Dana 35 TracLok 3.55 Short bed Manual locks and windows No AC, Power Steering, cigarette lighter, cruise or tilt 2 Speed Wipers, no intermittent Bench seat Sand Tan interior Sand Metallic exterior (mostly) Burgundy SporTruck appearance package 209k miles Purchased 11/3/18 in southwest CT Currently located in Cairo NY 12413 -Phil

I ended up finding a used one in Tennessee that should be here today hopefully. What year cherokee is that for? I can see slight differences in yours but overall it looks like a great replacement. I may end up doing the same thing eventually with the compression fittings to extend it like you did. Does it read properly?

Possibly, but even with JB weld there and no leak it is going drive me crazy wondering if/when it may start leaking again. If i can't find one by tomorrow i am going to buy stainless plate and tube and build my own. Hopefully the potentiometer will come off peacefully

Awewome. Thanks!

Hello everyone. My name is Phil. I am from upstate NY. I just bought a 90 Comanche 2.5/4spd/2wd shortbed Sportruck with the 18ga tank, and the fuel sender started leaking when I replaced my pump. The tubes on the sender are crusty but the body of the sender is still ok. Tank, lock ring, pump and sock are all new. I can not find a sender for the life of me, even used. Apparently 87-90 is no longer available. If ANYONE has a used one I will gladly paypal you the money. I got it for my daily driver now so I don't have to run my 67 Gladiator every day and I really am not fond of this thing seaping fuel. JB weld didn't work either. I have owned nothing but Jeep for 25yrs and can usually pull obsolete things out of my butt but after a week of hunting around the country I am grasping at straws on this one. Any help or leads to sources is extremely appreciated. Thanks, Phil Cairo NY