Flexj

I believe the previous comments are correct regarding the transmission, but I have always had manual transmissions so I'm not sure... As far as the t case, you can swap out the 21 spline input for the 23 spline input super easily, like stupid easy if your down to take the t case apart.. The only other difference would be the speed sensor, yours is mechanical and the new one is electronic, but you can literally just pull the mechanical one and swap it out with the newer electronic one... Hard to say if it would make sense financially, but I have used my 88 t case in three phases of my rig, the stock setup with 21 spline, the ax15 swap with the 23 spline input, and now I'm using it behind my LS swap with the chevy input shaft and the dodge ram 1500 6 planetary gear setup. The NP231 and most of the NP t cases are like building lego sets, super easy and mostly interchangeable.

The CPS is essentially a hall effect sensor that gets a magnetic reading as the flywheel/pressure plate spin on marked times, if your not getting a signal off of it either the sensor is bad, the markings on the flywheel/pressure plate are @#$%ED, or in the most likely scenario you have some f'ed grounds... My suggestion would be to go through Cruiser54s tips and I bet as you go through them itll fix your issue... Someone correct me if you disagree. I understand your statement about you measuring pre C101 connector but there are a lot of electrical issues that plague the renix jeeps that all contribute a little bit to issues like this... Start fixing the common ones Cruiser has laid out and the problem will most likely resolve itself. Also, I have had TERRIBLE luck getting things like a CPS from auto parts stores... I personally would put my money on junkyard CPS's before a brand new re manufactured one.

Glad you got it fixed! Happy Jeeping!

Had a few minutes of free time and put the winch on along with the fairlead. I’ll work on wiring it up soonish..

Painting is my favorite part of the job! It makes the biggest difference appearance wise too. Looks good man! You doing single or dual stage?

No matter how bad it seems, a new car will be worse..

Thats actually not true, Venmo is owned by PayPal and has the same buyer protection, you just have to click on the goods and services option just like on PayPal. There is zero protection on either PayPal or Venmo when the friends and family option is used.

I have a running driving LS swapped Comanche, its not the most complicated swap by any means, but as previously stated if you want it done "right" IE not having a motor poking through your hood, if you even had a hood, then yes you get north of 5k pretty quickly... Here is a vary BASIC price breakdown of what I did... 4.8 LS with wiring harness and computer - 700 NV3500 5 speed pulled from Junkyard - 250 Had the NV3500 rebuilt at local shop - 1200 adapting jeep t case to chevy trans - 160 LS6 intake/injectors/fuel rail - 550 ICT Accesory relocation -3 (corvette style) - 300 Camaro power steering pump and pulley - 150 Headers - 200 Exhaust/muffler if done yourself - 300 Fuel pump (spektra) - 100 F-body water pump - 120 F-body harmonic balancer/crank pulley - 100 Flywheel/clutch - 250 Slave cylinder - 75 Master Cylinder - 50 Misc AN-4 for clutch and AN-6 for fuel - 100 Radiator amazon special 3 core with e fans (can't fit mechanical fan) - 200 Computer tuning if you can't do it yourself - 150 OKBD Motor mount kit - 250 We're over 5200 and we havnt even gotten into fluids, consumables, tools, replacing gaskets while the engine is out, freeze plugs, adapting gauges to motor, all the misc stuff we end up getting like coil pack brackets coolant overflow res etc. Granted there is plenty here that can be cut trying to save a few pennies, but do you really wanna do a LS swap and try to save a few pennies?.. If your willing to drive with no hood or a huge hole in your hood and go with an automatic transmission I'm sure you could keep the swap below 2k, Ive done three swaps besides my Comanche on full side chevies and they are super cheap and easy to swap simply because everything fits... However then youd have to do drivelines also which is another fairly large expense. With me using the LS and a nv3500 manual transmission my drivelines actually fit right back! I was very pleasantly surprised with that one. My personal opinion, if you can't set 8K aside for the swap, then I would fix the 4.0... The renix 4.0 is my favorite generation, it may feel complicated but its truly the most simple reliable design when maintained correctly... Like others have said don't try to build it because its a pain to piggyback the computer, but for a stock application that is the generation I would choose. If you wanted to do like a stroker or something like others said previously I would want a OBD-2 BUS for that for the tunability... Good luck man let us know what you end up deciding to do! And please take my prices with a grain of salt, I'm going off of memory not receipts sitting in front of me, thats too much work for an estimate.

Really???? Ill give that a shot if thats the case! Ill get the picture and if theres no v8 option like eaglescout is suggesting ill just click it to the 4 cylinder spot. Thank you!

I'm certain mine only has a 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder marked on it... But I'm looking for more info if the v8 is an option!! Maybe ill pull the dash again and get a picture..

Mine has 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder on the back. Only those two options... If there is a dash that has a v8 option please I want to know where so I can do this also!! lol

Any chance your getting bad search results from it being confused with the toyota version of the AW4? Toyota used it in the second and maybe third gen 4runners also... Might be why its showing a speed sensor you don't have. With that being said ive only had manual jeeps never an AW4 but ive never seen the speed sensor anywhere except the t case near the output on any 90s and older jeep... Correct me if I'm wrong but id need a picture of your t case and then id be very surprised if it indeed didnt have any speed pickup sensor there. Picture attached is a google search of the part I am referring to.

I thought I had the azzys, and I’ve always commented on their posts saying I love it, but it turns out I have the boostworks linkage. 🤣🤣 it’s been installed for 7 years with no issues! Just finished my LS swap and had zero issues using it for that also. It is at the end of its adjustment for shortening it up, but it shifts perfectly through all t case gears.

AC guy here, if you have the other end of your cut hose you can braze them back together with map gas and some silfos... Aluminum is the most difficult alloy to braze but it is doable by an experienced brazer. Aluminum brazes between 800-900 degrees but becomes liquidous just after 900 making it a very narrow window... I would definitely flush everything out if its been left open to atmosphere, you can use a rx11 flush kit that is all in one, one time use, so that you don't need to buy any specialty tools or fittings. I assume youll need to go to a shop to get the system evaced unless you have a vacuum pump and the gauges to use it. Youll want to hit sub 500 microns for a good pull, if you can't pull below 700 you either have a leak or a LOT of moisture in your system. Leaving moisture in there with the refrigerant will create an acid that eats away all your seals and what not. Make sure you replace all the seals before going to 134a, otherwise same thing the 134 mixing with the older refrigerant will eat the seals. Nitrogen is the best gas to use for flushing and pressure testing, its inert and dry, it absorbs moisture and helps remove it every time you do a fill and release IE a "purge". I triple purge every used system just to make sure we get all moisture removed. I would probably remove the accumulator and make sure its 100% empty also, along with flushing it out with the rx11 flush kit to make sure non of the oil is left behind. Someone else already listed how much to put in, I would have to check the AC tag under the hood to confirm if that's correct or not but assuming you still have the AC tag just double check it before filling. Remember to NEVER break your vacuum with atmosphere, it needs to be broken by releasing the refrigerant into the system or you will suck in moisture.

Ive had like three ax15 XJs/MJs and never seen that spacer in place before... Not saying its for sure not supposed to be there, but it definitely looks like its for the auto in the diagram.

Nice! If you ever decide to put an order together let me know! Thanks!

Yes correct, the one behind the seats.

Looks good man! Would you ever consider selling the rear moly rack you made?

And that’s where I'm at in this point in time. The truck is driveable now but I have odds and ends I want done before I take it out for real. I need to finish moving the shifter assembly back with a remote rod linkage, finish the wiring for my e fans, finish the VSS signal for the LS, I have a connection on my exhaust I need to redo, etc. I’ll make sure to get updates posted as I go thank you all for reading! I am going to work on a parts list for everything I used for the swap, check back in if you would like to see that

Mounted the computer in the stock mj location. Had to modify the throttle cable bracket to be able to get 100% of the throttle from the pedal. After this I saw another person that used a mixture of the f body mount I used and the stock Comanche mount. I definitely think that was the better route to go, I may change it up and copy him down the road. I would give him credit but I don’t remember where I saw it. Also replaced my dome lights with the euramtec lights. First time I’ve ever had interior lighting! It’s so nice who would have thought??

And here we go with a mostly completed look. Need to wire up the windows, pulled all the tape and installed all the trims already.

I went to bleed my brakes and my stock master cylinder @#$%in exploded brake fluid all over the engine bay… decided to upgrade to a wj booster and master cylinder. I used some spacers to get the brake pedal close to the stock location as far as pedal depth, but make sure you bleed the brakes before sliding those spacers in and mounting otherwise you won’t be able to press the pedal down 100% to get them bubbles out. Grinded down the round spot on the end a wee bit for the brake light switch.

Floorboards before and after. Yes I wire wheels all the rust out, vacuumed, cleaned with alcohol then painted.

Started cutting to fit the shift tower. Experimented a bit with how I was going to close it up and started cleaning up the interior. Pressure washed the carpet and cleaned up the floor pans before they started to rust for real.

Making sure my offset is where I want it. Zero rubbing on flat ground, I’m sure I’ll need some bumps tops and limit straps for wheeling.