dkenitz

Appreciate the advice, Don! I'll start with rear springs from Tom when I have the funds saved and go from there. Tom, Do your stock MT springs have the centering issue mentioned above or does that only apply to the lifted non-MT springs? Also, do you plan on selling any lifted springs that are uprated to MT-like payload specs?

Don, that makes total sense. Thanks for clearing that up! Also appreciate the front coil suggestion as the ones on my truck are most likely originals as well. I'll be doing some research, but do you have a quick suggestion for shocks all around to match the new MT rears and OME 930 fronts? Edit: Found your recommendations in this thread!:

Tom, I'm confused about the part in quotes. Could you elaborate a bit more? All in all, your MT springs would raise the rear of my truck approximately 3"? Thanks much, Dustin

Which year and transmission? When was the last time you did a fluid change?

I'm interested in the stock metric ton rear leaf springs. Would those result in a substantial lift in the rear for my otherwise stock truck? Also, how much $? I didn't have much luck browsing the website.

Thanks Pete!

Will do! Did you use red loctite and did you replace all the bolts, or just the E12 ones?

That's a great idea!! Did you go with the factory lengths Dando posted? Do these apply to all-years of 4.0? Getting ready to drop my BA10 next month.

Thanks much, I'm considering copying your setup when I upgrade the MC/booster in the near future.

That's who I ordered from...hope it solves your issues too!

That mileage is incredible. I hate to replace parts unnecessarily so will hold off and clean up the original flywheel as you suggested. Thanks again for your feedback, very helpful!!

I hadn't come across any posts with serious mileage on the LUK slave cylinder, so thank you for that info!! I now feel confident in the LUK slave and will go that route unless stroker has a leftover Mopar slave that he will sell me. Do you normally replace the flywheel? If so, brand preference? I wasn't planning on replacing it but RockAuto has new flywheels for around $50 so I might just do it for peace of mind.

Thanks Pete, will certainly try!! If it is I'm definitely interested! Edit: Can anyone confirm if 04728737 is the Mopar slave part number?

Coolwind, did you just split that single rear brake line to each drum?

Hmm, just got one the other week for ~$32 on eBay. I guess the prices have gone up a bit. No matter, I would highly recommend paying the $55. I would have paid double that after my recent experience (wasted time and money) with inferior replacement CPS.

The old CPS which allowed my truck to idle perfectly yet not rev was worn down and had plenty of clutch material etc. on the magnet. Testing with a meter gave me false hope as well. Cleaning it helped briefly but it was too far worn. I found a new Mopar CPS on eBay for ~$32 so if yours is old or questionable I would suggest replacing. The local advance auto version did not work and seemed to not fit correctly, FYI.

No idea if this applies to your situation, but my perfect idle and misfire on rev problem was solved by a new Mopar CPS.

Appreciate your input. When I first got the truck and drove it around the neighborhood gears 1 and 2 would whine a ton. So much so that I thought they were straight cut gears. Turns out there was barely ANY trans fluid in there. Like maybe a cup, at most. It shifted so smooth and was nearly silent after putting Redline fluid in there. I plan on rocking the BA10 until I eventually go 4wd and swap in an AX-15 at the same time. The truck only has ~143k miles. The plan currently is to order the following parts from RockAuto.com: LUK 01035 clutch kit (which includes slave cylinder) LUK LMC205 clutch master cylinder Dorman H38935 clutch hydraulic line/hose Are these the best parts available currently? I want to do it right the first time.

Good tips all around, thanks guys!

I found this auction on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-84-96-Pass-RF-side-Front-2-DOOR-Manual-Window-Regulator/382454891933?hash=item590c16859d:g:iEEAAOSwepla7kFG To me it looks slightly different than the one I bought but I could be wrong.

Unfortunately not a number to be found.

Could someone please confirm the type (2-door or 4-door XJ) of DF manual window regulator? I just realized the ad didn't specify. Fingers crossed it will fit!

Thanks. Also planning on doing the clutch master.

Changed the transmission and rear differential fluids today. Everything went smoothly and decided to take the truck on its longest outing, yet. Truck drove great and shifted smoothly. On the way home the clutch pedal went to the floor when going to grab 5th. Pulled over and saw brake fluid leaking out the bottom of the trans tunnel. Was able to limp home thankfully. From what I've read so far, the LUK LSC269 slave cylinder is the best OEM replacement available. Rock Auto also has the LUK 01035 clutch kit (includes slave cylinder) for ~$30 more. I plan on ordering the clutch kit since I have no idea how old the clutch is. Should I replace anything else while I have the transmission dropped? Clutch hydraulic hose/line? I'd like to avoid dropping the trans again until I swap in 4wd/AX-15 sometime in the distant future, so I'm open to some preventative maintenance.

Curious to know as well...