eaglescout526

All it says is to connect positive battery to the pump contact on the starter motor relay. Doesn't say how. So my guess is it is a spade connecter and not one of the fusible links that is held down by the nut on the relay.

Pin 85 to T6 86 goes to the ignition switch.

Yeah back probing is a PITA sometimes and contact with the metal is fuzzy. Just wait for the TPS adjustment. Well since theres no open circuit in either wires and 3k ohms would put the temp around 80*. So CTS and its circuit is good. Ok looking at more conditions in the book I got two FP will not operate for the one second Connect a jumper on the FP relay. Pump operates. You checked for continuity between the relay and T6 at the ECU connector for this one right? Then theres the checking for continuity between the relay and the pump, I remember talking about that one. Then theres test the ECU and pump ground circuit. Then theres the pump will not operate with starter engaged. Connect positive battery voltage to the pump contact on the starter motor relay If pump operates, repair or replace starter motor relay If pump does not operate, repair wire harness between the starter motor relay and the pump side of the ballast resistor. Not sure if that is for Renault models or both. Then it says to check the one second operation.

I like the 21 slot because it is different than what most others have and gives that more 80's look. But if I didn't have such I would do the 10 slot.

Is this back probed on the connector or connector unplugged? If we still can't get anything suspect a melted wire somewhere.

What if you did T32 and A?

Damn shame I don't have one of those to compare the video to. Well I will say it does go dim, not sure what pulsing should look like but it kinda looks like pulsing. I should get one of those lamps.

Alrighty. CTS test is as follows Located on the side of the intake manifold below the fuel lines and by the brake booster vac line. Testing resistance(ohms) with a volt meter The resistance should be less than 1000 with a warm engine, we can't get the engine warm.\ 212*F---185 ohms 160*---450 100*---1,600 70*---3,400 can't imagine the temp being lower than 70 so I won't bother with the rest of the chart. Replace sensor if it is not within the range of the chart above. Test the resistance of the wire harness between the ECU harness T15 and the sensor connector terminal, and T32 to the sensor connector. Does not specify which probe to put where on the sensor connector. Repair harness if open circuit is indicated.

Ok switches are good. Lets do a run down of what we have now. CTS and WOT switches are good. 5V are at TPS and MAP. Fuel pump runs but won't fire when jumped, engine runs with relay in place but fuel poured down TB. CPS is a bit below spec but is fine. Fusible link to fuel pump relay is fine as is ignition switch(we confirmed voltage on terminal 86 for FP relay right?). Fuel pressure is 15PSI. Engine has spark. Injector is less than 10ohms. Does the injector lamp pulse dimly? Do we want to test the coolant temp sensor?

Yes if both are external slaves. If one is internal and one is external, youll have to do some part swapping to get everything right.

CTS switch is good. That's really really really close to zero and the book asks for it to be close to zero. Throttle open is greater than 2 volts. Lets do the WOT test again. With ign on D2_6 power probe and D2_7 ground probe No voltage at WOT position and greater than 2V not at WOT position. Basically the opposite of the CTS.

No D2_7 needs to have the ground probe and then D2_13 is the input to the ECU. We need to see if theres 0 volts with the throttle closed and then 2 volts with throttle open and off the plunger.

Not me, Pirate, MJCARENA or AMC86kid. It honestly doesn't surprise me that theres Arizonans out here who have MJ's but never popped in to say hello.

So I wonder what D2_7 and 13 will show for voltage once you got it all back together.

Ok so it is probably safe to say that circuit is fine.

Ok I went out and got some baselines from my ISA with key on, ISA unplugged. A is ground, ground probe went there B is closed throttle input, I got 5V there C is retract, I got .141V D is extend, I got .141V

CTS or the ISA? For the CTS it is the opposite of the WOT for voltage. D2_13 is voltage and D2_7 is ground Voltage should be close to zero at closed throttle and greater than 2 volts when off closed throttle. ISA doesn't have any voltage specs in the book. Suspect somewhere around 5-12VDC

Hopefully the ISA comes back to life.

Yeah when I did mine I just put some lithium grease in there around the gears and called it good.

Lol gets the best of us. Doesn't look terrible but grease is pretty dried.

I hauled a 2.5L and an AX4 aside from the time I hauled home NOS stuffs.

Theres a switch and a motor in the ISA, when the throttle plate hits the plunger, it clicks the CST switch inside telling the ECU that the engine is in idle position. The motor inside turns gears to either extend or retract the plunger to give the desired idle speed for open and closed loops of operation. Like I was saying, the ISA can be take apart to be cleaned and lubed. But the manual will say to just replace it if it is bad.

Hmm, still weird to see no fuel pressure, but the engine sounds fine an healthy, I wonder where the plum of smoke comes from. But yeah that ISA isn't doing anything. Its not extending for the next start up or nothin. It can be taken apart, cleaned and lubed up just so that way you don't have to buy a new one. A on the ISA connector is ground, and D is the extend for the motor. If that can be tested to make sure the motor works, I would suspect the ISA gears are jammed.

Once it starts and dies, don't attempt to restart it, I want to observe the ISA, I suspect it to be faulty and causing some issues.

Hmmm. Didn't confirm that theory. I don't think the ISA is acting right, it doesn't look to be in an extended position like it would for start up. but I also never heard it go to extended position with the relay in place after that one start up.