SuperSwede

I'm searching for the part numbers or type designation of the parts that are included in the 3" lift kit. The kit cost about 380$ in USA but with shipping to Sweden 750$ so I'm looking for others alternatives to get a good 3" lift.

If you look at the intake with this intake door/flap you will se that the flap decrease the air flow a bit, both in closed and open , so I just removed the flap and the air diagram to get the air to a maximum flow in to the filter. Can't hurt to let the engine breathe

I know, at start it takes air pre heated from the exhaust, then flips over to air from front intake. But if is not a legal demand..?

(Just asking of curiosity) Is it necessary, what if just get rid of it? In reality what will be the difference, a loss of some fuel or what?

The lage reservoair is actually two, it has two isolated chambers. I cut mine in half since one chamber already was plugged.

Yep that's the one, already on the way, got a fast reply on my order

I think I have checked all senors there is without any suspicius values. The same with bolts and carb cleaner can't find any leaks. Don't really have the time to be in the garage just now due to work and house projects. Bought a renix monitor today, maybe it will save me some time..until then I have to drive as it is.

You're right I'm also old school and 0,9 mm it is. "To measure, is to know"

Did another test today with 800 rpm and 2000 rpm - vacuum reading 17 and 20 inches. Fuel pressure at 800 rpm with vacuum 33 psi and without vacuum 40 psi. Will test the O2 sensor tomorrow,, got a brand new NGK if needed.. Found this somewhere on a NGK tech side "Carbon deposits Carbon deposits appear if the spark plug is frequently operated below its self-cleaning temperature (450 °C) - for example, when only short distances are driven or an incorrect heat rating (too cold) was selected." I never drive less than 30 minutes from home so short distances are not the cause. But maybe the heat grade on the plugs? Gonna put in some Champion RC9YC anyway.

What about the low vacuum value att idle, need any attention?

Sorry to say, but u lose on that one The MAP to intake line is in mint condition, including the fittings on both side.

NGK FR5GP

Lately my comanche has smelled a little bad in the rear and today when I took a look at the spark plugs all six are carbon black, absolute black all over, dry and black. Can´t really say I notised any problem when driving it ... Did a vacuum check and at idle (500rpm) it was 15 in-hg and at 2200 rpm it was 20 in-hg. What about that is it to low /bad? Let the throttle snap shut. The vacuum reading shoot up about 5 inches of vacuum higher for a second and then come down to 15 in-hg again. (Did a check/cleaning on the EGR valve and it was ok, also cleaned the IAC and controlled/adjusted the TPS all pretty ok but did it anyway )

Since it's absolute impossible to find any decent leaf springs package here in Sweden (New as used) I have decided to make me a couple of my own. I will ceep the main leaf as well as the two lower ones (Metric ton) If the rebuid could end with a 3 inch lift it's a welcome bonus. But from which cars and models /years can I pick suitable springs?

Thank's !

Can't find the quick answer but it should be diagram or so here somewhere.. From which years is the chassi parts like fenders etc bolt on to a 1989 MJ ? Between Comanches themselves 1988-1991 no problems, but from Cherokees ?

Earlier all non European imported cars (Without amber tail turn signals) got some extra ugly turn signal mounted under the original tail light. Otherwise not approved for driving on Swedish roads.. Today we got led lamps where you can change color or double colored leds in one socket, in this case backlight and turn signal i the same socket

Yep, another Swedish demand as well as that all turn signals has to be orange, front, side and tail..

It's a Swedish registered Jeep fairly close to my home, and one of few still in traffic Swedish regulations demanded washers for some years, to day they don't. Ugly and not that useful...

My recommendation is to copy this solution, the result is amazing compared to the original setup which is sort of crap. (With the tweeters at the same level as your ears)

Thank's for the info. I got 4x4 metric ton so I'll go for the military wrap when that day comes. here in Sweden it's impossible to get anything when it's about new blades...

Found two versions of pack, what is military wrap front eye, and rebound style clips? https://www.generalspringkc.com/product_p/gsc-571.htm https://www.generalspringkc.com/product_p/97-571.htm

Probably the crankshaft sensor. Had the same problem myself some years ago.

Yes but it took a couple of years and was more or less pure luck ;-) But she's still sweet and fine seven days a week so now I'm almost sure it was the final solution.

Not really, maybe some of the old junk was removed, to be true the original setup/wiring is a mess from factory and looks like #&!?!& compared to European or Asian cars. I have removed the vacuum canister and hoses and some extra wiring from previous owner. The red wiring and fuse boxes you can see have I installed mainly for the extra head lights, extra back lights and the stereo but It also support some original wirings.