ghetdjc320

I got mine at crutchfield but new oem ones were on teamcherokee.com last week

Could you post specific services/parts and prices?

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I used Eastwood internal frame coating to do all of mine before I shipped it out here to Guam. After 2 years I inspected for rust and have none. Stuff works really well for internal coating. It has a really long nozzle that sprays a 360 pattern.

Let us not forget about YJ axles. 3.07-4.10. 3.55’s originally in my 88 with BA10/5 and 4.2

My rig is on 33’s with soa rear and 5.5” front RE coils. Actual lift is 4.75” in front and 5.3” in the rear which increased my rake to approx 2.75”. Will be swapping in some XJ springs to bring down the rear a bit. Shooting for 1” of rake. I’m running Yokohama AT’s right now but will be switching to some 34” metric MT’s when these wear down.

Somone on Facebook was selling a 3d printed insert that adapts the new JT/JL tail lights but I don’t remember where that post was

I’ve got family there. Been looking for an 88 chief with a 5spd if one pops up. This is getting there

I bought a full set of 4.0 stainless fasteners from totally stainless. It’s the second kit I bought from them and it’s all super high grade stuff. The intake/exhaust bolts are arp stainless and have 3/8 socket heads which are super easy to get at

I got a set of nos fronts I was about to use as rears. I run Napier flares and the front fit really nice on the rears with those flares

The MJ 44 is just a regular 44 nothing special about the center section/ring and pinion. Grab whatever locker or carrier you want for a standard 44 and throw on whichever gearset you prefer. The carrier break is 3.73 meaning anything numerically higher will have a different carrier to align the ring to the pinion. But thick cut gears are an easy way to keep the 3.73 and numerically lower carrier. The JK Dana 44 design was used previously (same guts as a 98+ rodeo/passport). They have 8.9” ring gears and a Dana 60 size pinion. The rubicon axle is a bit different as @derf mentioned TJ Dana 44 is also just a regular Dana 44 with thick cut gears. It had a unique rear locker that acted as a Torsen style limited slip when unlocked and a full spool when locked. A unique locker but not necessarily the most reliable option and not worth trying to track down. I’ve had a couple of these lockers in the past though and did like them. They used a much lower air pressure than the ARB’s and Yukon’s

How long is the hdmi your trying to use? Is it an “active” hdmi cable? An active hdmi is directional and has a source and display side. If it’s active, you’ll need to force the laptop to output audio over hdmi. Assuming windows 10 just search for “audio output” after clicking the start menu. Under Hardware and Sound > Manage audio devices > Sound, you need select the “Playback' tab. Then you need to left-click the “Digital OutputDevice (HDMI)” feature. This makes the device as the default option for audio in Windows 10. Now try to reboot the device.

The 98+ rodeo/passport axle is very stout for a half ton axle. Larger ring and pinion that an 8.8, no c clips, much bigger brakes, thicker axle tubes and better clearance than the 8.8. The 8.25 is a neat little swap though.

Wonder if we can convince Russ to jumó on the forum??

Russ does some amazing work (best I’ve seen in the Jeep world) and can get you everything you need for a good price. Or he can build you a whole stroker engine. I’d put his builds above Hesco and Golen any day.

If you scrap the idea that the 12cw is what you need then you can make the process a bit easier. But there is a lot involved still

As I mentioned, my current 4.0 definitely feels mor powerful than any of my strokers (except the one that had a 100hp shot of nitrous. The 12 counterweight cranks are very tough to find and will require additional machine work. They’re not tough to find because they’re so valuable either. They we’re just redesigned early on. When Skat, who is probably the biggest stroker crankshaft player in the industry built their stroker crank based on the 4.2, they scrapped the idea of the 12cw crank. Once you get more power, are you really going to keep it at lower rpm all the time? Engines that don’t drop rpm fast after you let off the throttle feel like they lack compression or the turbo wastegate didn’t open. The heavier crank really doesn't keep the engine running any better at lower rpm.

If we do get a Hawaii section I’ll join in from Guam .

The man behind the switch trim covers lol. In my natural habitat with our “Water Manche”

That going to need one massive intercooler, or 8 small ones I guess

They also pop up on rock auto from time to time as refurbished units. I was surprised to see them but they do show up

Looks like someone tried to polish it up