ghetdjc320

Can you send a link to their posts?

Yep I agree. Those are the floor courtesy lights

Yep. If I looked at Jeeps and compared the time spent actually riding/driving vs the time and money spent wrenching, we would probably be better off renting a Jeep for $100/hr

Lol, electrical can be almost therapeutic if you take your time and work through the issues. Every problem on a 30+ yo Jeep is finicky though. They will drain your wallet then spit you out with bloody knuckles. Two days ago I went to work on my e brake to rebuild it. Seems like a fairly easy task right? Simple cheap Sunday afternoon kind of job? Nope! Two broken cobalt drill bits, broken tap and several nasty cuts later and the whole assembly is scattered in the back of the bed as scrap metal. I’ll have to redo it all. Probably will have $100+ in a “simple” fix plus many hours.

And weatherproof butt connectors. Home Depot has a fair amount of them at a good price if there is one close by. I have a commercial account at our local Napa (yep there’s Napas out here on Guam) but the prices for those connectors are quite high. A good crimper goes a long way also.

I had the same issue. Once I replaced all the tail light sockets and bulbs the problem was solved. A bad bulb or socket will backfead power from the brake lights to the parking lights and dash indicators. Sounds bizarre but they are all interconnected. For the sockets, if you can get new oem that’s great but a quick to the electrical section in your local auto parts store will reveal the Dorman part numbers that fit. You’ll need the 4 tail/turn signal sockets and the 2 reverse signal ones. New bulbs are a must as well and don’t go LEDs except maybe the reverse lights if you want.

Good tips. I’ve always use a bit finer grit before primer. 320 before primer and 400 before base coat. Comes out great that way and has plenty of bite. I use 120 pre bedliner though

Good tips. I’ve always use a bit finer grit before primer. 320 before primer and 400 before base coat. Comes out great that way and has plenty of bite. I use 120 pre bedliner though

When splicing in the new connectors, be sure to at least use weatherproof butt splices that have a built in heat shrink. Soldering the connections and adding heat shrink is even better. Just don’t use the generic butt connectors as they do not seal up and they will get nasty with all the stuff the tires sling on them.

Those sockets are your problem for sure. Just replace all of them while you have it out. I had all kind of lighting problems until I replaced them. Also, make sure to add some bulb grease (aka dialectic grease) when installing new bulbs.

NOS coin just arrived today. the original plastic is not perfectly sealed so I’m going to take it out of the plastic and put it in a coin holder

YJs had rear track bars

On my 91 that's where it is

I’d hesitate to do that. He could damage that leaf fairly easily

The ones under the main leaf will not become accessible by jacking up the truck. The ones beneath that may open up if you jack it up pretty high from the from or bumper. Otherwise just jack it up a bit and remove the leaf pack and reinstall one side at a time. Easy to do in the driveway

Just pulled the trigger on a new cr Laurence rear slider window. My original slider leaks and I just can’t have that in the tropics. The seals are shot around the slider and by the time I pull the window to disassemble the slider I might as well just get a new one.

I run an aftermarket moroso tranny cooler and am going to install the transgo shift kit soon in mine but that tranny has never slipped, failed to shift or acted up at all. And I’ve pulled some serious weight with my MJ. I just keep it out of overdrive if towing and keep the fluids and filter fresh. Not to keen on the shifting points as it’s always wanting to downshift ahead of schedule on me but the transgo kit will take care of that.

Same here. Quite a bulletproof tranny.

Do you already have a double cardan shaft you just need adjusted? If so it should be much cheaper. If you need a new driveshaft with double cardan and slip shaft it will be in that price range. I run a tom woods rear DS and it was about $500

Ooh very nice!

Thats, right. I guess I can add that to the list. Here are my NOS finds: Black trim and silver trim tail lights MJ Coin Lots of misc stuff but the best things are the above

would you like to part with one grey model with rivets?

Best thing I can suggest is to finish your product and take good pics. You have to demonstrate that you can repeat the process too, so you’ll want to make more than one cover. I did the same with the switch trim covers. I have a stack of failed prototypes lol but that’s the way it goes. Once you have a product and price, post up in the “vendors” section and see what interest there is.

It’s two different styles. The rubber one is the outer gasket at the slider and the u shaped felt goes on the track inside.

It went through sometime while I was asleep last night but let’s just say I wasn’t going to loose this one lol