Blaine.D

Sorry for the long delay. I have been trying to get my truck ready for paint and cause me to delay working on the cruise control. Wiring Harness Install Step 1 Go to the engine bay and remove the plastic plug above the speedometer cable. Step 2 Go under the dash and route the hardness end with the servo connector, ground and vacuum line to servo through the hole. Step 3 route harness to the other side of the engine bay where the servo would mount. Step 4 the ground connector is located inside the thick wire harness there should be a female connector there for the cruise control ground. Step 5 connect the servo wire connector to the servo. Step 6 connect vacuum line to the servo. Step 7 connect the speed sensor to the harness. Step 8 connect control stalk wire to harness step 9 connect control module Step 10 connect the harness to the brake switch. You will need to replace the brake switch to the cruise control version that has two sets of connectors instead of one set of connectors. Step 11 connect to fusebox where it says IGN That's it later I will post how to install the stalk, servo and how to make a bracket for the clutch and brake disconnect

You will need to drill holes for self-tapping bolts for the servo and mount it. Here's a photo hope this helps.

I guess no one got any ideas for a swapable replacement part.

I been trying to find the rubber bumper piece on the bed that cushions the linkage. Part # 5504883 Can't find it and it is a discontinued part. Has anyone found this part on another make or model that you can still buy new or what is a good substitute for this part.

Thanks, I was thinking I would have to but I wanted to check with others to make sure before I go out and buy one.

Found this on amazon today, comes with light pods, d rings, and hardware. My question is have anyone bought and use this bumper or bought anything from EAG? Also if you do have this bumper did you have to cut the fenders to get the bumper on? I guessing you do have to cut fenders similar to other bumpers. Thanks https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0797H29B9/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AD8AENOLLD9D9&psc=1

Based on the brackets that i pull from the junkyard, you can't use the automatic bracket on a manual due to the brake pedal assembly size difference and if you could get it to fit you could not have a clutch disconnect due to the bracket not lining up to the clutch pedal.

I wanted to see if anyone had any luck finding vacuum reservoir part # 53003052. This is the long one with four ports one for cruise control.

Looking for something more like this.

Working on my factory a/c and detected a leak on the line from the compressor to the condenser. Replace the o ring two times and try tightening it. No luck. I need help finding a new A/C line that goes from the compressor to the condenser.

One of the first item that needs to be changed to allow cruise control to be installed is removing the old speedometer cable that is one piece and replacing it with a two piece cable with a sensor before the gauge cluster. Make sure you find the right lower cable for your Comanche. You will need a longer one for 4wd and a shorter one for RWD. Step 1: Removing the cable from your transmission/transfer case output. Using an adjustable wrench loosen the nut on the speedometer cable and pull out the cable. Step 2: Pull the cable out from underneath until you reach the engine bay. Step 3: Removing cable from gauge cluster. Loosen 4 screws holding dash trim on. The screws are located 2 at the top of the gauge cluster, 1 above the headlight switch and 1 above the cigarette lighter. Remove dash trim. Next, loosen 6 screws on the outer edges of the gauge cluster and warning lights. Now BECAREFUll PULLING THE GAUGE CLUSTER OUT. YOU ONLY NEED TO PULL IT OUT ENOUGH TO REACH BEHIND IT. Disconnect the wiring harness behind the gauge cluster and the wiring harness behind the warning lights. Lastly, press down on two tabs on the speedometer cable to disconnect the cable from the gauge cluster. Move the gauge cluster to safe space for better room to work on the cable and to prevent damage to the gauges. Step 4: Removing Old Cable out of Engine Bay Open your hood and look at the driver side firewall and locate the speedometer cable below the throttle cable. Go under the dash locate the speedometer cable and pop out the rubber plug around the cable. Push the cable through the firewall. The end of the cable may angle up due to the weight of the cable, so you may have to pop the end off to get it through the firewall. Feed the cable down until it drops on the floor. Step 5: Insert the lower cruise control cable into the firewall make sure the rubber plug is in. Small end goes to the gauges and larger goes to the transmission/ transfer case. Feed the cable down the side of the engine and try not to place cable near anything hot or moving parts. On the cable, there is a point that secures the cable to the control arm and pushes the cable onto the bolt. Next feed the cable over transmission mount and transfer case. Insert the cable into your transmission/transfer case. Tighten the nut until secure. Step 6: speed sensor and upper cable install Tighten speed sensor on the end of the lower speedometer cable. Next screw on the upper cable. Step 7: gauge cluster and dash trim install. reattached the two hardness to their locations on the gauges and warning lights. Install speedometer cable on the back of the gauges. Next, push gauge cluster to the proper location and Screw the 6 screws that secure the warning lights and the gauge cluster. Install the dash trim and screw the four screws back into place. Check and make sure the lower speedometer cable is not touching any hot and moving parts.

Went back to the Junkyard today and found the valve/switch in the c4 corvette that was in the yard. The valve/ switch is in front of the brake pedal.

Problem #1 My valve/switch is missing the internal components.The C4 Corvette uses the same Valve/Switch. The plan is to go back to the junkyard and get one from a Cherokee or a C4 Corvette or i will have to order one. The link below is to the cheapest one i could find new. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/bwd-3123/lighting---electrical-16777/switches-16486/cruise-control-release-switch-11842/aaeac3c370c7/bwd-brake-light-switch/s749/2611634/1988/chevrolet/corvette?q=cruise

I was going though a Cherokee at my local junkyard and saw this yellow box little research later, I found this to be the cruise control module. So I look up to see everything I need and found a website that has the factory manual on the cruise control system. Link to it http://jeep-manual.ru/index.php?page=78 Also Haynes manual for Cherokee/Comanche/Wagoneer on 12-31 has the electrical diagram for the cruise control List of items you will need: Cruise Control Module Control Servo Speedometer Cables Upper and Lower. Upper cable is picture below Speed sensor Turn signal/ windshield wiper stalk with cruise control switch Wire harness Clutch Switch not necessary but is nice if you have manual transmission Vaccum Valve/Brake Switch i believe Vaccum hardline on the servo to the vacuum reservoir Vacuum reservoir (football shape) Finding Parts Most of the parts are behind/under the dash near the gauges and steering column. The Servo is in the engine bay on the passenger side near the closed coolant bottle. Speedometer lower cable is near the output of your transmission/transfer case.

I want to updgrade my shocks to something better. Wanted to see if other owners prefer a certain brand or see which ones I need to stay away from. Plans for my truck is some highway mostly back roads and occasionally minor off roading.My rear sits at stock height and the front sits 1 higher than stock with coil spring spacers in. The ones I am looking at are the rough country N2.0 shocks.

I decided to not to do the lift kit instead I went for coil spring spacers to do about 1” lift in the front. Also I change my mind about the combo because you can buy just the wheels now.

Thank you, HOrnbrod. Being new I did not realize WJ had the same length control arms. Axle is now out on jack stands waiting on paint to dry. Cleaned it then POR-15 so It will be several hours to dry. Interesting on the tool. I had a similar Idea went to lowes this morning bought a piece of 1/2 threaded rod and was gonna use a large socket (where you have pipe) to pull the seal in place.

Started to do a brake job on the front Dana 30 in my 1988 Comanche. Oil leak on passenger side. Took axle a part to replace the seal next to the CAD. Any advice on installing the new seal? Bought both seals figured to replace both since I am in this deep into the axle. Also probably need to do control arm bushings. Can I do these with a large vise or C- clamps or is this a job for a shop press? Also if I take the control arms out I thought about welding a plate to the bottom to box in the control arms. Would this be worth doing if I had the bushings out?

Installed replacements from Summit Racing. They were made in Taiwan also. Passenger side has gap same as picture above. The driver's side is worse liner does not fit well at all. The rear holes for the pins are close but the front are way off.

Well i was tossing around the idea of lifting it. I at point in my rebuild of it that it would be smarter and cheaper to get a lift kit now than later due to need of replacing shocks, brushing and etc. Just was trying to see if there was a reasonable price kit that anyone would recommend.

been needing to post about my truck for the past 3 months but anyway here's the juicy details of my truck, 1988 Jeep Comanche Engine 4.0l inline 6 Transmission 5 Spd – Floor Shift – Part Time 4X4 (NP231) Front axle Dana 30 Rear axle Dana 35 wheelbase lwb Location Western North Carolina Status project vehicle plans to be my daily driver when i get my license. Notes Skid plates, Bench Seat, Cloth/Vinyl, light grey interior, sliver exterior(factory color was black), Floor shift, current owner me

Ok thanks for the tips pete. I going to try to went i get to point of buying wheels and tires see if quadratc can trade out the 265/75/16 micky thompson to an 245/75/16 bfgoodrich ko2 all terrain.

going to be a daily driver/driving around town when finish. Probably won't see any real off roading. here's a link to a kit that I found, super lift https://www.superlift.com/2-5-inch-lift-kit-1986-1991-jeep-commanche-mj-with-superide-shocks. didn't know if anyone had used this kit and would recommend it ?

i thinking about lifting my truck. What would you guys recommend? I thinking about for tires 31 inch at the max. Also was thinking about getting these https://www.quadratec.com/wheel-tire-combos/quantity?t=92606-1803-07&v=XJ&w=92615-2313-07 and would like to keep it sub $500. Looking for a mostly complete kit.

Oh got the rare Fred flint stone engine lol anyway build is looking great, can’t wait to see the end product.