Hudy

Just did some reading and this makes perfect sense. Picking up the loaner fuel pressure tester tonight and will do some testing tomorrow. Maybe I replaced my leaking injectors with leaking injectors

I do not have a pressure gauge, but I guess it would be worthwhile to pick one up. Good question on spark; I guess I could check this by pulling a wire, putting a plug on it, and grounding it?

To be honest, nothing. Curious if maybe I’m missing something before I dive into it.

Volvo Injectors. Sensor is from NAPA. This problem existed before and after both replacements.

I’m on a 5 year journey of hammering down my rough start problem. I’ve searched high and low and can’t find this exact problem here already. The symptom: Cold start = Starts fine Warm/Hot Start = Have to “cycle” three times. By this I mean running the starter for ~3-5 seconds, stopping, and doing it again. It’s three times, every time, for the last 5 years. Priming the pump (click to “on” a few times) has no effect. I have to actually run the starter. Fuel injectors have been replaced. Crankshaft position sensor replaced. I found a thread on NAXJA that mentions a fuel pump issue. The suggestion here was that the pump could malfunction in a way that when it’s hot it can’t prime correctly. To my knowledge this is the original pump at 240k. How should I diagnose this? Am I missing anything?

I bought mine on eBay from ld-autoparts nearly 2 years ago for $90 shipped. Dan

FWIW, I had a significant high idle issue also. In my case it was a serious TPS issue. The TPS behaved extremely erratically until I resolved my ground issues. In my case it was intermittent. I did eventually get it resolved and dial the TPS appropriately (Thanks to Cruiser's guide).

I'm almost giddy posting this. 4 years of owning this Comanche and I'm finally starting the process of getting it back to where it should be. So here's the story: I bought a fixer-upper house 5 years ago and had a need for a work truck. My brother, knowing my love for Jeeps (and MJs), was living in Seattle at the time and found the perfect fit: A 1989 Long Bed, 4.0, 4WD MJ. He bought it for me, worked for several months getting it ready, and my girlfriend (now wife) flew from Philadelphia to Seattle to pick it up. And we drove it home. Our 7 day cross country trip included 2 days in Moab, UT and 2 days in Ouray, CO (Alpine Loop). We still talk about the trip once a week to this day. As a side note: If you're ever wondering whether you've found the right woman to marry, put her in a 25 year old single cab truck and drive 3,000 miles with no radio. (Engineer Pass, which we found impassible and had to back down). So, over the past 4 years this truck has carried thousands of pounds worth of demolition and construction material into and out of my house. With a little maintenance, the past 4 years have gone by fairly easily. I replaced the destroyed rear leaf springs with new metric ton springs, bought new tires, and put on a new exhaust system from the headers back. Other little odds and ends, but nothing major. I've always been careful not to drive it during the winter, and the few times I did followed with a nice hot bath to get any salt off. The bed was never in good shape, it had some pretty gnarly dents, and after a hit and run in the home depot parking lot, it was beyond repair. So, here we are! A few weeks ago, a fellow CC member pointed me to a fairly straight bed for sale in NC. 13 hours of driving later, it's home and ready to action. and the story continues from here...

Could you PM me the info on that bed if you’re willing to share?

I was wondering if this would cause confusion... just looking for the bed itself

Looking for a RUST FREE, (fairly) straight, long bed. Will travel and pick up. I am located in Philadelphia, willing to drive up to 500 miles. Thanks!

Found on CL, who knows what it was made for but it fits pretty darn well.

Chiming in again. I picked up a set of GSC-571 leafs from General Spring... 1700lb capacity with military wrap. Ordered on November 27th, Delivered January 3rd. I gained roughly 2 inches of height from my severely sagged springs. (31.5 to 33.75 ground to flare). I do have a fiberglass top on it with some tools in the bed.

I followed the same concept detailed here with some shop towels. Did wonders for comfort. Photo attached.

This is probably a good idea... I’m interested. I have plans to pull the bed in the spring for paint and will take you up on this offer then. For now to minimize the rot progression ill hit it with a converter and hope for the best.

I spoke with Joe (at general spring) today who said the 1700lb rated springs with the military wrap yield about an extra 1" on ride height. Same price, part # GSC-571. https://www.generalspringkc.com/product_p/gsc-571.htm

Its just a tough spot to get to on that shelf (and hopefully not beyond...). Plan of attack for now will be to wire wheel everything I can, squirt a converter on it, and do my best with painting it (I guess ill give POR15 a shot). Just surprised on this issue as I had rinsed that area religiously after salt exposure the past few years. Oh well... I Guess.

Thanks Fellas. I’ll give it a shot with a wire wheel and converter.

Sadly this nastyness is on the bed itself. Photo attached.

I'm in this same boat now and happy I found this thread. I want to verify because I'm a little lost here... did GS make you a lifted MT spring or did you purchase the stock height MT spring? Thanks.

While under the MJ this week I noticed a fair amount of rust developing on both sides of the truck above the rear wheel wells (inside). I'm looking for a solution to remove the rust before it progresses and penetrates through the body. Is there a reliable chemical remover or am I stuck with mechanical removal? Aside from jamming a wire wheel up there, what options do I have (the area is tight). Thanks.

Thanks everyone. Two week update: I replace both vacuum line sets, the EGR, and also did the valve cover mod. So far no blow by. Will be doing a 200 mile trip soon to verify this. Thanks again!

For price comparison (as of yesterday): I had Maaco quote my "well loved" MJ... 2100 for body work and enamel only, no clear. 400 just to spray it. I reputable body body shop advised it would be well over 4k. I have a significant amount of damage to the bed only (no rust, just dents).

Thanks for all the responses. I did a little research based on your responses and I think the key here will be to just replace the valve cover with a newer steel one along with the vacuum lines. I figure while I'm at the junkyard I should be able to find a EGR transducer. I'll update when its done. Thanks again.

Thanks for the response. Its a LWB 89 MJ 4.0 4x4! Is there physically a valve inside the grommet or is it the vacuum line that enters the grommet thats clogged? I've attached a photo of the valve cover. Any idea on the transducer for the EGR?