MJ is dead

Go ahead and flame. But here's my take. Yes, a smarter driver is always better than a smarter car. But in reality there isn't really that many smart drivers anymore. In reality, the automakers need these things, call it an opiate for the masses if you will. Modern drivers need traction control, abs, and airbags. And as far as safety is considered, the statistics will show that modern vehicles are much safer than that 81 honda your aunt mable drives. Sure, they can be a PITA, but I for one, have no qualms with these safety features

Sorry I didn't post up sooner. For some reason I haven't been receiving email notifications from CC. I finally figured the idle problem out. Turns out I snapped one of the hard vacuum lines that goes to either my TPS or IAC while I was trying to diagnose my CPS problem. Luckily there was still enough hard line on the sensor to just splice in a chunk of vacuum hose. No more rough idle! Now its having throttle problems.... :wall:

Depending on the reputation of the body shop, you may HAVE to have the bed removed for paint. A lot of shops are PPG (or whatever other brand of paint they use) certified and have to offer a lifetime guarantee on their paint jobs, otherwise their certifications can be up for review Leaving the bed on does leave a risk of paint failure if they don't tape it off in some way. Because their sealer or basecoat may fail because the clearcoat hasn't been applied to all areas that the paint/sealer has, it may not seal correctly,therefore causing potential problems. If you plan on going with a single stage paint, you might be in the clear. I would recommend using a nicer rattlecan, such as SEM or 3M. They are usually formulated for automotive applications, whereas krylon and rustoleum are more general purpose. But after rattlecanning it, tape it off with a soft line, and have it painted the color of your choice. And take your time in surface prep!!! I've been painting for 4 years now, and I would not recommend anything other than removing the bed and painting the bed front and rear of a cab. Just for quality purposes. Since you already have the bed off, just leave it off, and the shop will take care of it. If you're going for cheapo route, then do what you will, just my recomendations as an auto painter :thumbsup:

I do have a longbox unicover aluminum topper. Only a hundred bucks. Pm me if you're interested

I take it the 4.0 and auto generally suck? I think I get around 12, but my mj has issues

I certainly hope you're joking :shake:

Ok so the rough idle has become more of a problem. When at stop lights (still in drive) the jeep will lurch forward, almost as if its trying to go. It almost acts like the timing is off or a plug isn't firing. And for some reason the vacuum you hear when pressing the brake pedal down, well that hiss is there all the time now. I tried unplugging the battery to reset the ECU, but no soap. And to top it all off, I'm getting HORRIBLE gas mileage. I went through a quarter of a tank in about 10 miles. I didn't know sliding into the ditch could cause so much trouble Please, any help?

82-93 :thumbsup:

:yes: Yours truly

:agree: But I'll throw a please and thank you on my request :banana:

Although I don't quite get why you'd want a roof rack that small, I'm sure you could find a cherokee rack and modify it as long as it is gutter-mounted

I know which valve cover I need, I meant adapters/hoses/other crap

My JY isn't a pick-n-pull....what should I tell the guy I really need?

Yes sir....I can't wait. Gotta do my floor, lift, and interior. Hopefully I can find a 97+ donor so I can get doors and a front clip :D

Ok, now that the MJ is running again, its time to address another issue. My oil leak(s) I'm gonna start small and do the valve cover gasket, even though I'm thoroughly convinced its the RMS. But I know the jeep rule: make it better while you have it off. So should I go ahead and get the valve cover off a 97+ or should I just modify my existing valve cover? 64cheyenne told me what I need to do, but I honestly don't remember what all needs to be done. Thanks!

Just got done swapping in the CPS. And......it starts!!!!!! Idle is really rough tho. Maybe I'll clean the IAC this weekend. Thanks a lot guys. Looks like I'm here to stay :cheers:

I already have spacers, I'm just quite sure the front coils are a little saggy, so I figure the zj coils will do just fine

Uh....aluminum doesn't rust. :roll:

Man if you had a long box I'd have a topper for ya. Any chance it was my ad? I said I took it off a comanche

It SHOULD start friday, when I replace the CPS (which jeep calls the "engine speed sensor BTW)

Very true. I hate how guitar hero and rock band have fratboys world wide convinced that they know a band because the hit red, green, orange, orange blue to one of their songs. You don't know jack, go pop your collar.

*Carry a small plastic pry bar with you (won't mar the paint) Sometimes our hood latches don't let go on both sides. Have a buddy pop the hood while you pry the side that doesn't open. Then get some lithium grease and spray the crap out of it * Having the wife/girlfriend help now and then will make it easier to convince her that project really IS worth the money :thumbsup:

No I knew it, and I knew what I meant in my head.....I just had the terms screwed up :rotfl2:

Well crap. I'm just a moron then. You're right. Somehow I had it confused in my head. Its currently SUA..... :doh: I am an idiot. :shake:

Back when I owned my pathfinder (VERY underrated wheeler BTW) I was a member of a pathfinder offroad association. When we heard that Xtreme was gonna be doing a pathfinder build, we about crapped our pants.....then they just made it a mild offroader for camera crap :wall: Also, Jessie (the chick from extreme) went to the same tech school as I did and was from my hometown. But I do agree she was just there cuz she was a hot chick that could weld. Every greasemonkey's dream. She was only there for ratings