Rymanrph

I have a 2wd AX-15 and I'm near Charlotte, NC. I'm not sure how far away that is for you or if it's worth the drive to you.

If I ever built another Comanche, I'm going to paint it Inca Gold.

That is going to look fantastic! Can't wait to see it back together.

That looks fantastic! I think you're hyper black Ravines will look great, but I am partial to having the tires stick out some. Either way, you've done a great job.

I've never posted in this thread before and I liked the idea: Before: Phase 1: Phase 2: Phase 3:

2wd or 4wd?

Congratulations on the progress. Its a good feeling isn't it?

Performance Plus Connection (http://www.performanceplusconnection.com). Its a small couple person operation that is run out of his house, but he let me drive by at lunch and pick up the parts. He even gave me a small discount since he didn't have to ship.

That wheel tire package looks great. My brother just put the same wheels on his JK. I love the wheels, but at $220 a piece... too rich for me. I'm really digging the flat flares too. You have a great looking truck!

Since I had the light bar out to spray the Upol, I wanted to address the wiring. I wasn't happy with the quick disconnects used at the bar/bed union. I really don't like quick disconnects. I don't think they work very well and I was worried about them not being a weather tight connection. Here is the mess I had to start with: You can see where a couple of the connections weren't crimped well and pulled out. I found an Ebay company that was based about five miles from my work that sells weatherpack connectors. I picked up a five pin plug, crimping tool and removal tool and here is the upgrade: On the bed, here is the female plug that comes up through the floor and will be hidden in the light bar once mounted: I like this system and I may end up redoing my taillight wiring at some point.

Well, the guy who was going to buy my car totally flaked out (which is one heck of a story in itself), so I'm still waiting. I'm still trying to pick out components. I may forego the truetrac in the rear and install a lunchbox locker myself later. The reason for this is that I'm starting to worry less about traction and more about armor. I've found a couple companies that make sliders, but my biggest concern is my rear bumper and lower bed sides. I don't want to cut up the bed because 1. its in really good shape 2. its not reversible and 3. I still want to run a full rear flare. I remember wheeling my TJ and my bumper catching plenty of times in the rear coming off of a ledge. I just haven't found a good solution yet. I keep getting tempted by 35s, but all my conclusions keep telling me that 33s are the way to go.

So when do we get to see them on the truck?

My brother bought me U-pol Raptor for Christmas and I finally got around to spraying it. I can't say anything to the durability, but I went on very easily and I would definitely recommend it over the Herculiner that we put in my brother's YJ. Here are a couple before and after shots. I used three of the four bottles. I may order another bottle so I can do the light bar.

I can't see your pictures, but I looked them up. I think it would be hard buying seats that you can't sit in, but the A4s look like very nice seats.

Might not be a bad Idea to consider. What's another $235 right? Will they work with my current 3" springs or will I need a taller spring to start with? I will do at least 33s, so what I may do in the meantime is swap back to my original Comanche bumper. It should give me a little more clearance until I decide what kind of aftermarket bumper I want. I'm assuming you're referring to Lock Right Locker and not the No Slip. Unfortunately, they only make it for 27 spline 8.25 axles and not the 29 spline. I want good traction offroad, but I don't want to hurt my on road performance since that is where I'll use it the most. I don't want a selectable locker in the rear because I want to use the benefit on the street. The other thing that I hadn't considered, since I have a 242, could I run in full time 4wd with a lunchbox locker in the front on the street? The plan right now is 4.56s for 33s. I really appreciate your feedback. When I tackle big projects like this, I research like crazy to find the best possible solution. I definitely don't want to spend more money than I have to, or spend twice to correct a bad decision.

I have one in Albemarle if you still need one. You're just down the road.

I want a limited slip because I will use the truck more on the street than off road (though it will leave the pavement). Its a purely mechanical limited slip without clutches that can wear out. It seems the best compromise of on road manners, off road ability and durability/reliability. You're the first person that I've heard not happy with it. Can you expand on why you call it a disappointment?

OK guys big plans are in order. My car is selling today, so I'm trying to put together a list of everything I'll need to convert to long arms and 33s. That way I can get a good look at my budget and see if its worth doing right now. Long Arms: I've narrowed it down to Clayton, TNT and Rock Krawler. Clayton is at the top of my list right now because I like their removable cross member. Are their MJ specific kits or will the XJ kit work fine? $950 Springs: I'm using my stock 2wd drive leafs in the back, so I want to wait and measure for the front after I install so I don't get a reverse rake. I figure I can always swap in some rear 4wd leafs or shackles. Any recommendations for front springs? I'm budgeting about $150 for those. Shocks: I had OME shocks on my TJ and really liked them, but Bilsteins seem pretty popular here. 4 Wheel Parts has four 5100s for $300. Other suggestions? Track Bar: I will need to upgrade my stock bar. Clayton's HD bar w/ bracket is $290, TNT's is $290. Any other suggestions where I can save a little? Brake Lines: I know I can get a set of stainless lines front and rear for about $120, but I'd like to save some money here if I could. Are YJ lines long enough up front for the flex I'll gain with roughly 6.5" of lift? Also, what can I use in the rear? Tires: 33x12.50 Goodyear Duratracs. I'm very happy with the 31s I have now, so I'll probably stick with them. ~$800 Wheels: 15x10 or 15x8? I'm getting something aluminum, so I'm budgeting about $400. Regear/SOA: I've gotten two quotes, one from a local shop and another from 4 Wheel Parts. The local shop included labor for installing the rear SOA, but even without that, they were a little higher. I need to confirm with 4wp if their quote included installing the axle after they added the new perches and shock mounts. I can get another rear 8.25 for about $110, so I may just take that to them and then install it myself later. My quotes included 4.56 gears front and rear, the rear soa conversion and a rear Detroit Truetrac. The cost is somewhere between $2150 and $2500 (ouch). Sway bar Disconnects: JKS are $150. Rock Krawler are $106. Are there any better cheaper options? Anything else that's necessary? Bump stops, steering, other? All that together puts me well over $5,000. Once everything is done, I can sell my current lift, wheels/tires and I have another set of wheels for sale as well. I'd like to get down to $4,000 if possible after I sell everything. I'd really like to keep my factory bumper and flares for now and I don't want to rub. I'd like to do this right, but I don't want to spend more money than I have to. Any suggestions/comments/recommendations are welcome.

With 200k miles on my motor, I know that a replacement is in its future at some point. I'm of the mind that if I replace something, I want it to be better. If a stroker isn't worth it, then those looking for more power, what would be?

You can bring your own vehicles to drift? That's pretty cool.

Technically, they're graphite lol. They are a little darker than I would have liked, but oh well.

I got the damage on the rear quarter repaired. The bumpers, hood, cowl and a couple of the fender flares were repainted. I repainted the wheels too after they were nicked up mounting the tires. Not much left to do and it will be up for sale most likely.

That would be awesome. I just got a quote today from 4 Wheel Parts on re-gearing my axles and welding up new perches and shock mounts in the rear for spring over. If my other car sells, I may go that route. Thanks!

I haven't spent as much as some on my truck, but I'm sorry that saving a little money is such a problem. If I buy spacers that's $200. If I buy new wheels I can sell the Ravines for a difference of about $200. I paid money for the lifetime balancing and I don't know about you but I like to save money where I can. The Ravines have a back spacing of 5.5 and the spacers will effectively put them at 4.25. The AR23s are 3.75, so that would give me an extra half inch. Given the choice I'd rather have the spacing with the wheels instead of with spacers. I haven't made a decision yet so we'll see.

Oh sure. I'm going camping this weekend so I won't have a chance to work on it anyway. If I could have it by the following weekend, that would be fantastic. Thanks again.