ParadiseMJ

I have a tank skid for a LWB MJ...I can either cut it up and fab it to fit my SWB or make a trade with someone who has a SWB skid. I don't want to sell the skid, this is a straight trade. You pay shipping on yours, I pay shipping on mine. I will take pics of it and include and I'll need current pics of yours. The skid I have is truly rust free (no surface rust even), I would expect to swap for same. The skid I have is made of STEEL, not plastic, I would expect to swap for same. If I've posted this wrong, I apologize, please delete and/or move as you see fit. Thanks, Charlie

So, is the Herculiner that they sell at Wal-Mart (Herculiner brand, kit etc.) for $70 any different than the exact same stuff they sell at NAPA for $120?

OK, I should have qualified that with an IMHO. I just personally would have a radiator made of metal, seems to be a concensus on all the Jeep forums AND it just makes sense that aluminum core crimped on to ...plastic...just isn't as strong. If you're getting good results then great!

RadiatorBarn.com...put in the year, model, etc. Don't get it off of e-bay, don't get an aluminum/plastic radiator. If you have a closed system and want to keep it that way, just order a radiator for a closed system. If you WANT to convert to open you can get a new all metal, 3 row radiator at RadiatorBarn.com for $165. Hoses (all hoses) will cost you about $75-90 if you go with good quality, but not over the top hoses. A new (different) heater control valve will cost you about $25. A little engineering and an afternoon, you're good to go. You don't need any kind of different t-stat. You may want to wire your e-fan to a switch. More info??

Yes, if you're talking about the one by CW. I did the bushings, no problem. I didn't see anything (maybe I'm blind) about oreintation of the arms on the motor. It just seems like it's bound up somewhere, somehow. I'm going to get a new breaker, take it from there. May have to remove it and see where I messed up.

I took out the circuit breaker, the whole thing was in pretty bad shape. Cleaned up the contacts, cleaned the sockets, nothin'. Is this a part that's readily available. Universal even? Looks basic.

What about the rubberized "undercoating" I see on the shelf. Is that stuff any good? I find the stuff coming off in places. Is it just for sound deadening or ?? I agree with the POR-15 though and I like the idea of a smooth surface. The undercoating seems like it would be harder to clean and the times when I've seen it peeling off is when I'm blasting the underside with a hose. I truly don't have many rust issues here. However, the PO of my MJ did a horrible job of maintaining certain parts of the truck. So, will you, or have you pulled the bed off??

No experience with that :dunno:

Gotcha!! Thanks. :doh:

I swapped in a known working intermittent control, from the XJ, still no go. I may just do as you said and eliminate the box for now, makes sense. Nice to know that if the wipers on either vehicle DO go south in the future (intermittently) I can delete that box and still have wipers. ...but, is it at all POSSIBLE to install the motor onto the arms backwards. If so I think I need to take it out and re-install it (yes, no, maybe??)...oh, edit, and is there a fuse for the wipers??

I don't have a part number, but I've always just gone into the parts store and asked for a lower rad hose. They've always fixed me right up. As far as years go, I believe they're all the same 84-90 and beyond. Don't know too much about the years beyond 96. You will hear that the earlier models have a spring in them to keep them from collapsing under suction stress. I have been to the dealership (two of them) and was told they don't make them like that anymore. If you're concerned about the spring, re-use your old one if possible. Just ask for a Gates or Goodyear hose. Buy the more expensive one.

When I got the MJ, the wipers did not work. So last weekend I replaced the wiper motor. The old one was complete toast. I turned them on and they went on...briefly, before I realized they were jamming (yes, I put the arms on first :doh: ) for like 2 seconds. So, I took the arms off thinking they were just jamming because I installed them on the upstroke when they should been on the downstroke. Now, they don't work again. Is there a fuse, I couldn't find one, circuit breaker?? Is it possible to put the motor in WRONG? As in orientation to the arm assembly? I thought it all went together just like I took it apart...but then it is ME working on it. :dunno:

That's what I was thinking. I can make it for sure, but seems like there'd be a part out there for that. Or is there, and I'm just clueless?

Saw them on a Ford Ranger...guy said he did alot of towing (utility, toys, etc). I'll be doing the same. :dunno:

At this point all I have to do is bolt it to the diff. Will having even the 2" in the rear affect the valve? At what point does the amount of lift affect it? ...and on the ECTED subject...am I better off with the LSD?

Actually I meant the kind that are bolted to the top of the leaf...with an arch and two square u-bolts. They put a concentrated load on two points in the spring pack. They are a GREAT way to break your springs. That's what it looks like. They look like they would bind up easily and restrict any flex. So I'll take that as a NO.

CW, it was actually your sig that made me wonder what ECTED was.

Actually I meant the kind that are bolted to the top of the leaf...with an arch and two square u-bolts.

I tried searching, but no luck without alot of reading... 1. What is ECTED. How is it different from an LSD or other lockers? 2. Proportioning valve - This is foreign to me, nothing like it that I can see on my 90 XJ. The one on the MJ is just hanging there. What does it do...can I live without it? Delete it? 2" of lift on shackles currently. 3. Does anyone run "overload" springs on their MJ?? Thanks

Added a third brake light today from an XJ at the junkyard. A litlle cutting and wiring under the headliner. Works, looks good. My springs are here. I also ordered new lug nuts, the old ones were toast and the holes were all wallowed out, other set of wheels ready. Torque to ?? 80...100

I did not like them at first and considered the diamond plate idea, but after cleaning things up (and figuring out how they went on) they're growing on me. It definitely makes MJ's easier to identify, as if.

I saw it on craigslist for a couple months...I'm thinking he held out for the price. I live in a pretty small town and I haven't seen it rolling around town, so he probably did. Looking back at what it had, the conditon, the mileage, I probably would have saved $$ in the long run. But then what would I do on the weekends other than laying around under this one with grease up to my elbows :cheers:

OK, I finally figured this out. I feel like a total idiot. I've been looking at my friends Toyota, and anothers Chev pick-up. They are attached from the bottom down with keyed carriage bolts, torx, slots, whatever. I finally have the bed bolted down - from the bottom up, into nutserts (and the stud in front). :doh: :doh: :doh: Disclaimer: Part of my idiocy is due to the fact that there are six holes drilled in the bed, they looked factory.

About 2 years ago I saw a very nice (cherry almost) MJ for sale. The guy wanted $3800 for it. I called, he would not budge on the price. After owning 2 XJ's before I just knew I could find one cheaper, if I had to do some work on it, fine. I wanted 4x4, I wanted short bed. I looked all over Northern California for one, zip. Well, I bought this one for myself for Christmas. $400 + delivery on a trailer (didn't run). What it looked like when I bought it, before delivery. It looked like the PO had tried to sand off the decals. This isn't camo job gone bad. I sprayed primer on the bare metal spots before I put it under a tarp for the bulk of winter. So, here's what I got. 1988, 160K on the clock, 4.0, BA-10, D30/D44 w/LSD w/3.07's...bed not bolted down, interior out, no rust other than some surface rust, here's a pic of the floor. Like I said, it didn't run. PO said he had no idea why it wouldn't start. I put in a CPS and charged the battery. Fired right up, ran at idle to temp in about 15 min. Had a slight tick that quieted down after it ran for 5 minutes. I just about stripped another MJ at the junkyard and got ALOT of parts right away, a header panel off an XJ, tank skid, front skid, receiver hitch, an extra set of tail lights, headliner panel, fuel parts etc. etc. for SUPER cheap. I also got a AW4 from a guy over on NAXJA for free. Thanks again rysam. What I've done so far: Cleaned it up, swept out black widow webs and sprayed it down with bug spray. Twice Replaced the cracked header panel P/S pump/hoses etc. (fluid alert) Converted to Open Cooling, all new hoses, new rad, NO heater valve!! (fluid alert) Brakes all around, complete job, hoses, rotors, calipers, wheel cyls. etc. (fluid alert) Shackles on rear (coils coming for front) Shocks (it was missing the fronts) Cleaned up axles and refilled with (fluid alert). Dropped tank, cleaned out, etc. Headliner Fixed wiring to taillights (and replaced the headlight switch) Edit: ...and a Comanche Club sticker!!! What I'll do in the next month: Coils for front Bolt down the GD bed!!! Start putting the interior back together. Door panels are fine, I have all the parts (they were piled in the cab of the truck when I got it). XJ (2 door) buckets. Future plans: Find better axles (gears) Drive the crap out of the BA-10 til it dies...by then I should figure out how to swap in the AW4. SOA and all the parts that go with that. (when I win the lottery)

For a 4.0 L For a 2.5 I've heard that it's entirely possible to delete the EGR altogether, but I don't know how and/or if it's legal where you live. I failed miserably 5 years ago and so I'm really anal about it. Frankly I don't know what causes NoX, HC or CO getting out of whack, so I just make sure everything is clean and tight. I know it's probably unnecessary but my checklist for smogging my XJ every 2 years is: Change oil Plugs, wires, rotor, regular tune-up New O2 sensor, yep, every 2 years. $50 worth of insurance. NEW gas cap. Check and replace (not duct tape) any suspicious vac lines. ...and a can of G2P...follow instructions on container.