EUREKA

It looks like the kit is coming with the preload spacers now. The description says it comes with these, 1987-90 YJ & 1984-90 XJ: Rear Disc Brake Preload Spacer

Thanks I missed that. I've been working during the day day and then spending the evenings trying to do the mental work of steering this project. I'm trying to get all the parts ordered before I disable my daily driver, and have access to measuring the flange or bearing offset (I now understand what that refers to).

I know some consider thread necromancy to be a sin. To them I ask forgiveness. In the description of the kit it says, " These disc brake kits REQUIRE axle shafts w/ a 2.5” bearing offset." What does that mean? https://teraflex.com/shop_items/528ffa7fead962f416e72f52

Thank you sir.

Because of minimum order requirements I went with amazon instead, The Hillman Group 58077 Sleeve Bearing ASIN: B00MND8LIA

Installed them today. Did not require a 90 degree drill or stubby drill bit. I used my M12 Milwaukee impact driver and a standard 5/16 bit. Went smoothly and they work great!

Kinda funny I was looking at the 3.93 ring and pinion set on Amazon and there is only one review, This is what I didn't like about my G2 gears. Without the wind from bad door seals and hum of bigger mud ties, I'm a little worried that I might be annoyed by the gears singing on the highway.

Ok, glad to have your opinion! The 5 speed does make our situations a little different I suppose but can you elaborate on why you would opt for the 3.73 set up? Better for highway cruising?

Ok cool. Better is better after all. Yukon's website is great. They actually have parts listed by application for the MJ Dana 44. Yukon Comanche Dana 44 rear I think I will get most of my axle parts from them. I'm looking at the Dana 44 Master Overhaul Kit, Axle Bearing And Seal Kit (X2), and MAYBE the Yukon Hardcore Diff Cover. Oh and the Ring & Pinion of course. Looks like Amazon has the fastest shipping and best prices. Those parts total to $676.33. Of course I will do the equivalent for the front axle. EDIT: just remembered the rear brake kit I'm planning on installing comes with axle bearings and seals, blackmagicbrakes.com/Dana-44-Rear-Disc-Brake-Conversion-Kit-w-Set-10-Bearing.

Ok. It seems like Yukon is very popular. I see their logo everywhere. I was a little worried they would have an aggressive gear cut like the G2 gears since they seem to be performance oriented. I'm asking this out of sheer ignorance, do Yukon gears have better meteorology than Dana Spicer?

Actually I think it was Dana brand not Mopar Performance.

4.10 it is. Now how about recommendations on the brand of ring and pinion? I have used G2 in a Dana 30 and a Dana 35 and found them to be a bit noisy. I have also installed a mopar performance brand ring and pinion in a Dana 35 and liked them a lot.

Well it was inevitable I suppose. For my daily driver, 31" tires, automatic trans. No rock crawling, decent amount of mud and sand though. It will see plenty of freeway at 70 mph. Now I know I don't NEED to change the current 3.55:1 ratio but . . . both pinion seals are leaking, I'm installing truetracks, I'm not afraid of spending $$$ in pursuit of building my version of the perfect MJ. IF the chart on this website is accurate then I feel I would theoretically want about 3.91 - 4.11 gears. http://www.alloyusa.com/gear-ratio-calculator/ So is the chart linked above accurate? If cost was not an object, what would you do?

Thanks! I would rather have metal but I need to get my interior install underway, so I think I'm going with plastic.

Absolutely! Thanks I appreciate it. I've been taking pics along the way so I should probably start an actual build thread at some point.

Our local yard has one jeep right now, a ZJ. Thank you for the info, I do appreciate it.

I'd say what you maybe missing is that brakes become less effective with heat, and on serious grades (I understand most states don't have them) that can become an issue. Especially when ambient temps are 100+. I don't see how being able to lock up brakes on flat ground is a good test for anything but being able to lock up brakes on flat ground, and of course that has a lot to with the traction you are getting. Granted I never had the size drums that I do now with the MJ Dana 44 but the stock brake systems of other Jeep vehicles (XJ and ZJ) have certainly been inadequate for my region/use. With rotor and pad upgrades, well adjusted rear, and a otherwise perfect braking system the ZJ wasn't too bad, but once loaded with people and cargo, on many roads here it was just barely good enough, and still rotors would warp sometimes. California does have 7 of the 10 steepest roads in the US and I go over passes like Tioga pass or Sonora pass every year. My county particularity has many very steep roads which I will often travel over with significant loads. I'm sure neither of us is all that interested in convincing the other on this issue. I'm sure we both have well over a decade of driving XJ, ZJ and MJ's in our respective regions for our respective uses. And I should say that I am aware the specific upgrades I am going with are somewhat beyond even my needs, but I like to do things that way and I'm not too satisfied with intermediate options. I not too concerned with the budget on this build. I knew this job was dangerous when I took it.

Well I failed to check the diameter and bought the 1.25" ones mistakenly. I needed 1.5" Haven't found them in metal.

I really like the new look. One issue, the icons for "create new content", "messages", and "notifications" are difficult to pick out from the background.

Of course, I wasn't thinking clearly. Is the Wilwood valve and bracket that you used part# Wilwood 260-13190

Do you do much driving over extremely steep grades with a load? This is when I find the brake system lacking, even with my AW4 setup so that I can make it stay in 2nd. When ambient temps are 100+ it doesn't help. I'll admit I am upgrading some aspects of this truck far beyond what I really need for the tire size I will be running and the level of off-roading it will see. This is simply to placate my obsessive compulsive nature.

I understand, the drums probably have superior stopping power, but not once they are hot. And there are the other advantages of disks. I don't have to choose between upgrading the front or rear system, I want to do both. Is it not worth making the adjustable rod for the load sensing valve? If I delete the load sensing valve, do I remove one of the lines going to the rear and plug the port on the combo valve (or join them with a tee) ? What is a passenger side drop bracket?

So to sum things up a bit I'm thinking; 95-96 XJ Booster and MC (will this bore be a good match for the kits below?) will require; a 1/4" spacer between the booster and firewall modification of the end of the booster rod to fit the brake switch. Bending new lines from the new 95/96 master to my existing combo using the existing combo valve flare fittings on new lines. For the rear brakes (MJ Dana44 axle) This kit from Black Magic Brakes, Dana-44-Rear-Disc-Brake-Conversion-Kit (will require slight modification of the backing plates to match MJ Dana 44 backing plate?) For the front brakes (MJ Dana30 axle) The steering knuckles from my 88 MJ This kit, Wilwood Forged Narrow Superlite 4R Big Brake Front Brake Kit

The thing is I will already be installing a Detroit Truetrack in the rear and repainting it and all (maybe changing the gear ratio, I haven't decided on that yet). It just feels like the right time to switch the rear to disk. I'll make time.