BORDENCOMANCHE

hmmm, should I attempt more bleeding?

Clutch works okay, I put the vehicle into gear before I start and as long as I leave the clutch pedal pushed in it doesn't roll, I let the clutch pedal out and it rolls forward, I push the clutch back in and it stops the vehicle.

So I just installed my news Sachs clutch kit on my BA 10/5 in my 88 comanche. When I start the vehicle in Neutral I cannot shift into ANY, i mean ANY gear, its like it it locked out. If I put the transmission into gear and start the vehicle with the clutch in I can release the clutch and the vehicle moves. Its a little rough taking it out of gear once I turn the truck off. I bled the clutch a million times and it has great release but my now KNOWN GOOD transmission won't shift into gear with the motor running. P.S. I fixed my exhaust manifold to downpipe problem with an exhaust clamp, 2 inch, but I had to cut some pipe before the cat that I haven't fixed, this results in an idle of 2,000 RPM consistantly. The idle shouldn't have an effect on the shifting, its a manual transmission with a new clutch.

Wildman, I think you read my issue in a hurry... lol. I am looking for the OUTPUT shaft seal, my input shaft seal is okay, the adapter plate housing seal is the one I need. I have three different seal numbers in the mail on their way to my house from three different companies claiming that in fact their seal is the one that fits and that it is not for the 2wd version of the transmission. Because the one they already sent me (RockAuto), is for the 2wd Tranny. Ba 10/5 had two different size output shaft seals, one for 2wd and one for 4x4. Wierd, but true. I ordered one for an ax15, which carried over a number from the ba10/5 from somewhere else... blaa blaa, I could go on all day with it. Thanks bros, will update you on monday over which ones fit and which ones don't./

hmmm will investigate soonest.

I am still leaning that she's not siezed.

What about one of those exhaust flex pipe patch things I can buy for 15 dollars. Slide it down over my exhaust pipe then back up to the manifold, I believe it looks like I have 2 1/2 inches of pipe before the 02 sensor.

Yah man, parts stores are getting way out of hand now adays.

That sucks man. Sorry dude.

I think its 75-90 or something, look for differential gear oil. If you have found something that smells really really bad, thats probably it!

P.S. It sounds REALLY REALLY cool. and my nieghbours don't think so, but they can go to hell.

I know the not so easy but straight forward method of fixing this is to buy a new mainfold, but the canadian verson of uncle sam doesn't pay me enough to do so. I busted my exhuast pipe off right at the flange, the top piece of the flange (manifold side) came right off. I was thinking... Can I just ram an exhaust pipe expander on the "good" pipe after cutting off the flange and clamp that bad boy off? Does anybody know if the sizes are the same. Exhaust is not my speciality.

:dunno:

Its a jeep not rocket science, the procedure is pretty much the same for any ol' truck, my wife and I do it together. Person number 1 lays under the truck after ensuring master cylinder is full, using a backup wrench, hold bleeder assembly and undo bleeder nut with other wrench, report "DOWN". Person number 2 presses clutch pedal to floor when finished holds it there and reports "DOWN" Person number 1 then closes bleeder screw and reports "UP". Person number 2 then allows clutch pedal to rise to full extent, when finished report "UP" REPEAT process. P.S. Watch out for the fluid, it stings the eyes.

yes, lol, its all $#!&. rubber is crap lol. I got a rubber fix a line on my grand prix right at the feul filter.

Me personally ,the head would be coming off, and a new head gasket would be going.

Somethings not right here. . . Looks like my french when I use the english to french translator online. Sheesh man, shoulda just hit it with a hammer thats what 90% of the world does when their starter doesn't respond. That b*@$£ will fire right up.

Mine did that bouncing from side to side, I thought it was kind of cool at first but the wife told me that if I didn't fix it, she wasn't getting in it any more, I did a rough driveway alignment and replaced the shocks and she went away. Now its smooth like a cadillac.

in lieu of preventing crappy master to slave lines can one not just purchase a length of brake line and curve it appropriately with a little coiley to give it some spring and thus making a more reliable line?

Yep my guess could be faulty ground as well. I found that following the wires usually leads me to the problem. Not too long ago I discovered a bad turn signal socket and two bad flashers and that the trailer wiring harness under my box was so corroded that it was interfereing with my rear marker lights. All you can do is start from the light socket and work your way back.

*@#$% that* The bear was in great condition along with the old clutch and pressure plate, honestly don't know why I replaced it, oh ya, the slave was leaking. Cheaper to buy a kit. Anyways here I am up the creek again. The output shaft seal on a 4x4 BA 10/5... I can't find one anywhere. Mine is puking out oil.

Replacing the clutch on the 4.0L, ba 10/5 and I noticed that I can't get the old pilot bearing out, any tips??

$#!&? 235's are special? I am rocking 235/75/15 on stock chassis with no issue, got the rims as part of my parts XJ I bought. it was a no brainer, $#!& rims and nice rims, I will put those things on my MJ never thought twice about it. LOL

Apologize, I'm ripped... :D From what I have been told, what I have learned, and what I know, the I6 is a BULLETPROOF motor. Every mech' in the area has an extreme respect for the motor up here. Its usually the componants and relays and little electrical BS that is attached to the motor, which it relys on to run, that break down. Like these guys said, before you go wasting all your time, and eventually ALL your money (cause a manche is a money hungry pig, worse then my wife), do what they said. *takes another drink of beer* I haven't read anything yet about what you have tried, to many times I see people buy a "new" vehicle and go throwing a whole pile of money at it, which you shouldn't do with this truck, 'cause resale is really low, that is if you don't send her to the grave yourself. Try a bunch of stuff, and give us a detailed report of what you find, promise you we can help you fix it. . Please for your wallets sake just don't 'haul off and rebuild it, because as soon as you do, either the manche's magic touch will make you upgrade something else, or miracously something else will break, and before you know it, your divorced (and broke). *more beer* You lube up those cylinders and give her a shove and I am betting she will cough up whatever crap thats in her throat. Crashing into something then letting it sit doesn't cease motors. Just makes for a really really hard start. (Sidenote: seen on the tube last night that a couple of guys rewired an old '20 - '30 something and force fed it gas and it fired right up) Welcome to the club, Ryan.

*PUKE*