NC Tom

I've been parts shopping for a bit and as with anything the opinions of others are all over the place! For someone with a limited parts budget I'm always struggling with cost/performance issues. On Rock Auto, for example, typical brands are: (This is for steering/suspension) SKP Mevotech MOOG Dorman Ultra-power MCQUAY-NORRIS QUICK STEER TRW ACDelco Delphi TRW and others Search any of these brands and you get the full spectrum of "Love it, to JUNK!" opinions. Keeping in mind that people are largely stupid and will complain about something that is not even related to the part they purchased or a part fails because the knucklehead takes a stock truck over the Rockies. We all know this is true. Ok, back to me! My truck is 95% stock. It's my DD and I NEVER abuse it. Very limited off-road use. Snow or mud is not uncommon. For we stock drivers, are parts brands largely a non-issue? I've read Dorman is good, I've read Dorman is bad. Same for every other brand. Many folks here like MOOG. I would assume MOOG is better than Dorman. However, I've also read MOOG is junk. What gives? I would love to buy the parts I can afford, but not at the cost of part failure. Is it so hard to expect that ALL aftermarket parts are stock quality at minimum? How can we get a better quality source of reviews/recommendations for our old trucks?

I have a refurbished 7751 and would love to know how to hook an amp to it. Specifically, an old school Rockford Fosgate Punch 75. I can't figure it out. Schematics make my brain hurt.

FWIW: Cruiser54 recommended this, "Get a 703-1396 cap from Napa or an equivalent. From a Volvo." I did, and it works really well. Holds tight.

Maybe. I get mild motion sickness in the car and sometimes when I play video games. I've NEVER had this before. Getting old sucks!!!!

After A LOT of reading and thinking and stalling, I've dropped coin on a Rough Country track bar. It's overkill for me and it will outlast me as well, but that's okay. It's a good part that I can install and should see immediate results. Maybe I'll start replacing all the undercarriage components once I get used to being under there.

That's interesting. Thanks!

I get that too. Another issue I have is positional vertigo. An age-related issue that is VERY annoying! I need to get the truck up higher than just a jack to work without getting . In fact, it's the stupid vertical that really keeps me from tackling these repairs. If anyone else has issues laying under their truck and feeling sick and has a "cure" please chime in!

Recently I was run off the road by some douche rocket driving in my lane coming around a blind curve. This happens a lot in Watauga Co.! I hit a DEEP pot hole and busted a lower shock mount on my 2004 Honda Pilot. I've been under it, but I can't tell exactly what's broken. I'm thinking it's the knuckle. Anyone have any other ideas?

Sure. That was my first thought as well, however, the spirit of Crusier54 and others have been reminding me not to fire the parts cannon. Also, it looks and sounds like a pretty in-depth job. So, I'm back to keeping it simple. I'm not making much progress on that.

Thought that was the Axel (Differential) side? The other side is the passenger side? I didn't realize that was just a dust cap though. Okay, well, I'll take my confusion back outside. Also. Is it better to lift the front end before removing that bolt?

Can't tell if the hole is oval-ed, but that bushing is toast.

Will do!

I'll order track bar. Also, going to order bushings for sway bar. However, Rock Auto is showing many different diameters from 16mm to 26.5mm? Any suggestions?

Okay. Well, that's a start. Thanks again.

Yeah, sure wish it was something obvious other than just old parts. I can recreate the issue anytime when I leave the neighborhood. I did it the other day just to really feel what was happening. When I go over some specific road bumps the steering wheel just goes nuts with back and forth action. If I don't immediately hit the brakes to slow down and calm the motion, I really don't know what would happen. The faster I go, the worse it gets. Something is not absorbing and/or controlling the front end when I hit a bump, like where new pavement meets old.

I did some poking around today and basically found nothing. Had the front end on jack stands, my son turned the wheel back and fourth and nothing seemed to be wrong. No clunks or creaks, nothing looked or felt sloppy. I have little to no movement with the ball joints using the "pry bar under a tire" method. The only movement I found is illustrated here:

@RiversideMJ Did you get this job finished? I'm starting something similar and was curious how it went.

You guys have been very helpful. I think I'll go back to the beginning, like was suggested, and start with what "needs" to be addressed. Anyone have a good source for what I'll be doing and looking for? Sorry to be so needy, but I prefer fairly specific guidance for this type of thing. At least for the first time I try it. @89 MJ posted, "Everything in the steering should be moving together and have no play." I am assuming this means that there should be no delay between components during movement?

@89 MJ@ghetdjc320@ratrapp Ok, you guys have made disappointing but valid points. I honestly thought this would be a unbolt, replace, tighten type of repair. I see now it looks to be specialized. I hate that, because I'm tired of garages marking up parts, literally, 500%! It's just a damn money grab.

Alright folks, I'm getting pissed trying to order tie rods and ball joints off Rock Auto! Ball Joints: Do I want adjustable or non-adjustable? Tie Rods: Can't figure out what I need. Seems like the descriptions are lacking crucial/consistent info. Some mention "outer" or "inner"; some mention Thread direction; some say Pass or Driver, but none are the same and I don't want to deal with not having the right part when I need it. I don't know this stuff and don't want to guess. Rock Auto is also trying to upsell special tools for install. Is that worth it? It's a BIG ask, but can anyone just clarify this for me? Something I can use to identify the correct parts? I know, I may have to give up my "Man Card".

@AnotherOldJeepGuy Do you suppose these two lines should be one?

Ok. That sounds like it's worth looking into. What's the model year I need to reference for the WJ? I've had bigger tires in the past and found them to be more of a P.I.T.A. then a benefit to me.

Brother, it's parked right next to my truck!