AMC86Kid

not sure what to tell you other then this post that i found http://comancheclub.com/topic/12093-breaking-into-your-vehicle-lost-keys/ mine won't even accept the key that i use to start it unless thats is its suppose to be a different key

oh so the white squares are where you plug in the computer and it tells you whats going on since i don't have the original motor and almost non of the sensors hooked up I'm not ever gonna really use those things and i have ran the truck parked on idle and discounted the hose to the map sensor i did not notice any difference in the motor with it connected or not at this point is it safe to say that i don't need either of them ?

can you post a link of that ?

do you mean that that the crank pulley bolts are loose and all i have to do is tighten them up and see if it stops like what this guy did http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/how-fix-flexplate-knocking-125547/ how many bolts should it have does anyone know or have a diagram of it

i went back and tried to listen for where the sound is coming from so i put blocks behind the tires started the truck put it in reverse and jumped out so i could get under the vehicle and listen it sounds like its coming from where the tranny connects to the motor so could it be the torque converter is not installed properly or its a bad one ? does that even sound like a probable cause

so are you saying that i should pull the dash out and look at how its connected behind it ?

since i did a engine swap i really don't think my map sensor is controlling anything on the motor in the second pic the black thing with the two red wires is a fuze i was wondering what are those two white-ish squares next to it doing

what do the map sensor and the scanner port do ?

ok so i have an 86 MJ and it has a 3.4 in it i was able to get the motor in there and running when the engine is in park it sounds fine but when i switch it to drive or reverse i get the weird sound you here i was wondering if anybody knew what it was http://tinypic.com/r/huqfi9/9 the video starts off with me starting the truck then about half way in the video i switch it to reverse from park and i get that sound then i switch it back to park also i can drive the truck as is so it does work i just have that annoying sound to deal with if i can fix that sound and the RPM gauge then the truck is pretty much ready to be teared down and cleaned up then put all back together what do you guys think

i was wondering what these two parts were and if i need them this is under the hood on the top left this is under the hood on the top right

ok so i put the 3.4 in my 86 MJ but here is my problem with the RPM this is how it looks when the vehicle is in park and turned off this is how it looks when its in park and in idle and here's what it looks like when its in park and you press the gas any ideas on how to fix this

ok so after i did all that and everything was running smooth in park on idle i decided to take it out for a test drive when the vehicle is in park and running it sounds great but when you put it in drive it makes a da da da da da da da da sound and the sound is in proportion with the gas when i accelerate it I'm not sure if its the engine but its sounds like it could be coming from the tranny or the torch converter i have started a new post and uploaded a video link so you guy can go check it out http://comancheclub.com/topic/51906-whats-that-sound/

the clearance from the belt and my radiator hose is fine i just had to use a flex hose because the original hose from a 2.8 on the top would not work on my 3.4 and i got my alternator shimed up so that it and the compressor would pull the serpentine belt straight but as i got done doing that i notice that the belt tensioner pully was falling off of alignment i thought it just needed to be tightened but evrytime i did that it would just un-tighten itself so i just removed this one part that was like a washer around the bolt and replaced it with a regular washer tightened the bolt down and now it all spins straight and tight no problem

the battery i have in there is just a test battery i still have to buy a real one for the truck and the belt looks loose because i took a pic of it when it was loose when i put it back on it goes on real tight it just slips off because its not properly centered the alternator and compressor need to be realigned i will work on that tomorrow and when I'm done i can post a pic for you guys to see how i got it to work

yep the belt slipped off its because in order to use the new 3.4 motor and keep the one surp belt system instead of the original 2.8 three belt system i had to swap the compressor and the alternator (because the compressor is to long and hits the motor mounts) so when i modified the bolt in brackets it was difficult and hard to get it perfectly straight and in line with the belt

i test drove the truck after i replaced the tranny gasket and filter and now the power steering won't work it was working fine yesterday and today i have to pull the wheel real hard to turn the tuck I'm wondering what could have happend i checked to see if the fluid had leaked out and i didn't see any leaks sure hope i figure it out cause this truck is really starting to kick my butt :fs2:

lol

i have took the truck for a test drive and the brakes now stop the vehicle so now i will move on to the leaky tranny and then hopefully the truck won't leak no more

Good News guys i got the bleeder screw out i found out that if you allow plenty of heat and give it hard hits with a hammer the vibrations will break it free and allow you to turn it now i just got to go buy new bleeder screws

i may have to buy new calipers hopefully i don't because the original ones work and they say AMC on them so i want to keep then because they are original

i have been trying to use vise grips and i can't get it to budge at all i think I'm going to just heat up the bolt and that should pry it free

good for you bro your welcome

ok thats what i figured so i took the driver wheel off and tried un bolting the bleeder screw and it didn't budge at all i cleaned if off with a wire brush then sprayed it with WD40 and all i managed doing was stripping it :( so tomorrow i will try to weld a flat piece of metal to it and see if i can hammer it off

when my key was stock in the ignition i had to make sure the vehicle had power from a battery and make sure it was in park other then that I'm not to sure what else could be the problem but here's a link that might help you http://comancheclub.com/topic/18991-ignition-lock-removal/

i have wired tons of car stereos thats easy work