AMC86Kid

i guess i will bypass it and see how it goes

gas comes in on right side the front port is vacuum advance on a distributor and the left side ports i believe are for egr

Yes the regular radiator hose felt hot and full on top of the radiator, I forgot to squeeze the one on the bottom

So I finally got a chance to test out my mj after it's been sitting for like 4 months and the engine ran for about 20 min at higher rpms and started to overheat climbing over 220 I pulled over and stopped I noticed that the two lines to the heater core don't feel the same the red one feels full and the black one feels empty my question is will a clogged heater core cause a issue of cooling fluid to build pressure and get hot ? Should I by pass it and and test it out by passed ?

You need to test the system when it’s blowing hot make sure clutch is engaged and the pressure switch is operating correctly otherwise it’s a wiring issue

Yeah I know but I’m not gonna mess with that at this point I just need to pass emissions with the truck first

If I start it at just one turn out then it won’t stay at idle and die off

Ok I think I set it good now both screws are fully turned in and then backed out 1 and 3/4 of a turn and my idle is around 800 I think I’m good now, I might just have to reset the timing now to see if that makes a difference

I put the Permatex Muffler/Tail Pipe Sealer and so far it holds real good so I slapped the clamp over it as an extra support, no leaks now I can tune my carburetor

Ok so both front and back screw have to be turned the same amount so I got to change my current settings then cause right now there not even and screwing it in sends less gas threw right ?

No I need to make it so that I can take it apart if I need to

i still have a leak i gonna try to seal it with some exhaust sealant and the clamp thats on there https://www.acehardware.com/departments/automotive-rv-and-marine/auto-tools-and-maintenance/auto-body-repair/80355?store=14600&gclid=CjwKCAjwjLD4BRAiEiwAg5NBFn6gahiOQnpQSPq_BoueqPzF4auljn2i5bPgpPCd0TPz871rnlARDhoCHPgQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

ok guys I'm trying to tune my carb i got the timing down to around 13 BTD at around 700 rpm but now I'm trying to tune the carb and I'm trying to understand the correct way to do it also the motor operational temp is around 180-190 does anyone have any tips or a link to a good video

Ok nice

Around 2 inches

Yeah I need one with two different size diameters

oh ok i will give it a try

i wonder if a straight piece will work for me because i don't think it will seal it fully

is there any clamp down pieces that i can get to connect these to so that they don't have an exhaust leak?

make sure your tbi carb is not clogged it might not be passing fuel threw at least not enough to keep it running

So if the gauge is designed to read a certain amount of ohms up and down then by putting a different sending unit can make your gauge work incorrectly because the ohm output levels won’t be where the gauge was designed to read, Makes sense to me

Why don’t you just pop your gauge out and bench test it to see how it’s suppose to be wired, then when you go to connect it back in the truck you know what to look for and what needs to be sent to which prong, this makes modifying it easier

I only know how to wire the 86 fuel system and on my truck it’s impossible to wire it backwards you either have it wired correct and it works or you have it wired incorrect and it doesn’t work at all I am actually amazed that his is even able to work backwards, this leads me to believe that his system is different than what they used on 86 models i can further explain exactly how the 86 model fuel gauge works if you want me to, but I don’t think it will help him since he has a different unit it probably operates differently

It will fit as far as how easy it is that’s all gonna depend on how good of a mechanic you are

If your fuel gauge runs backwards then just pop the gauge out and glue over the F with a letter E and glue over the E with a cut out of a letter F