AMC86Kid

idk but it sure don't look factory with it being all shinny and black

since you guys are helping me out with restoring the vehicle i will probably just give away what ever i have left over from the vehicle to who ever wants it on this website so if you want that clock then you can have it but I'm not at that point yet so ask me for it later i need to get this thing up and running and i need to get this 4WD working as well with that being said i am most likely keeping the left side of the dash especially if i can get the 4WD light to work and i will probably replace the right once since i have a new radio in there and it already displays the time as well

ok i will pick up a set tomorrow but should i get a metric set or a SAE set I'm assuming a SAE set since the vehicle was made in the USA

ok i will try my best to not spill any fluids and about the wrenches are you saying that it won't work with regular wrenches? also how do i take those 4 nuts off of the booster do i have to remove my dash or can i get to it from looking up from the driver floor board?

ohhh ok so your saying that the whole purpose of the vac set up is to engage the front axle so it works when its on but when its off then the front drive shaft won't turn and stays in place if i bypass all that crap and throw away the vac lines then i remain with just a self engaging system where i have to turn the 4WD on by pulling the shifter up and then turn it off i put it back down to 2WD but in 2WD my front drive shaft will still be spinning since my cam is permanently engaged so pretty much all I'm doing is controlling what the transfer case does does that sound correct to you guys ? also is will the 4WD light in the dash still come on or do i have to set up a custom switch to get that to work as well ?

25 bucks is kind of expensive to just cover up that panel

ok i looked at the post and my one concern is won't my vehicle be in 4WD all the time if i bypass that Vac/Cad setup

ok thanks

i found this vac diagram but its for a manual and i have a automatic is that gonna make a difference in the diagram

i was wondering if any body could take a pic of there air intake manifold bracket I'm talking about the piece of metal that fits in between the carburetor and the air intake filter manifold its made so the the air filter sits on top of your carburetor straight and secure i can make one but i wanted to get a good idea of how it would look on a stock engine I'm not sure if its made out of metal or if it more like a rubber O-ring

ok guys i have ordered a new Master Cylinder and a new Brake Booster i was just wondering what do i have to do to remove the old one from what i see i have to remove these two big nuts on both side of the brake booster then i have to disconnect the two little brake lines on the left side of the Master Cylinder then remove the air hose line from the brake booster do i sound correct or am i missing anything ?

thanks now i just got to figure out how to fix it

ok so this thing is basically some sort of control valve and these are the lines that where disconnected by the previous owner not sure how to correctly reconnect them in the right order but there are 3 of them and I'm not sure what this thing is for but i saw it down there with the other rubber lines here is the view of those lines from the top of the truck under the hood on the passenger side same lines under the blower Is there anyone that knows how i should correctly reconnect those lines they are little rubber hoses they can be reconnected I'm just not sure in what order or if you can take a pic of yours and i will just copy mine to match yours

ok thanks guys

ok i looked at the front axle and this was the only thing i saw that looked questionable this is located under the passenger side of the front axle not sure where on the front axle to look for the vacuum disconnect could anyone tell me if its on top or left or right side?

ok so i looked underneath and I'm not sure where to look to see if my 4WD is engaging correctly here are a few pics of what i do see

ok so I'm assuming that the transfer case uses the same tranny fluid as the actual transmission

awww i see ok i will try to make a bar and connect that swinging piece of metal to the clip bracket on the axle thanks

oh ok so i will try to hook it up and take a pic then maybe you guys can tell me if it looks like i hooked it up correctly

aw ok i will go underneath and see if it looks hooked up correctly maybe even post a pic if i have a question about what its suppose to look like

my sun visor has no sticker lol here's a pic of my shifters also when you shift your tranny from park to drive does it jump thew the different gears (P.R.N.D.) easy or does yours actually take some effort to shift down and up i feel like mine shifts way to easy

ok i clicked on the link and i see what your saying it regulates the brakes so they will be stronger in the back if a heavy load is applied to the bed so if i remove it then when my bed is carrying a heavy load i will not get as much breaking power as with it on

oh ok so it swings from the top of the driver side rear tire down to the rear axle ok i get it but where does the other end of that metal rope connect to ?

how do i determine if i have a Command-Trac or a Selec-Trac ? is there a pic of something that i can take to show you guys? and i don't really want any more gauges but i would like more buttons i don't really care for the quartz clock i can always put in a new LED clock

when you say horizontal do you mean its suppose to swing from front bumper to rear bumper ? ok i will look around to see what its suppose to look like hopefully some one will post a pic of how it should look so basically you recommend that i keep in on there and don't remove it