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Everything posted by AMC86Kid
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looks like i was wrong even if you flip the blades around it still won't work the arms that hold the blades have to be in the correct direction otherwise it won't work well that sucks looks like I'm gonna have to use an electric fan
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the previous owner sold me the vehicle with the 3.4 rebuilt engine in the bed of the truck he did not install the engine because he had realized it was gonna be a lot of work and decided that he would rather work on his Studebaker so he offered to sell it to me at a price that i could not say no to and now I'm here putting it all together and trying to figure out all the problems
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when most people do the engine swap they use the 3 belt system from the 2.8 and connect it to the 3.4 i hate the way the 3 belt system looks so I'm doing it with just one belt to make the system look simple i just have to figure out all the little kinks to it
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ok so i have a problem the fan has to be connected to the crank shaft (any other pully and it will hit other parts) and the crankshaft spins counter clockwise the blades on my fan when spinning counter clockwise will only push air towards the radiator even if i flip it around i have to drill the rivets out and flip over the individual fan blades then rivit them back on other wise i have to get an electric fan
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i feel like its not getting enough gas when it dies maybe i can put up a video of what it sounds like so you guys can hear
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i dropped in a 3.4 it has just one belt on it unlike the 2.8 i will put up a pic later so you can see how i have it set up I'm pretty sure the timing and the water pump are the original one that came with the 3.4
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Ok so I'm trying to install the 2.8 clutch fan on my 3.4 in hopes that it will help keep the temperature of my engine lower and after reading everything online i just wanted to make sure you guys agreed with this the clutch fan goes between the Radiator and the engine and the direction of air is suppose to be sucking from the radiator and blowing towards the engine dose that sound right to you guys also i can put up a pic of it once i figure out how to get it on there
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i can't really answer the question accurately because my RPM gauge does not work properly it goes all over the place if i had to take a guess i would say around 1000 to 1300 rpm also in the pic that i was pointing can anyone tell me if that is an electric choke ?
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Also will this link help me figure out where all the vacuum lines go on the carb http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/2_8L.htm
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ok i see so i should get a carb with Vacuum Secondary since they are ideal for street vehicles with automatic transmission and a 2 barrel carb is simple and easy to tune i have found the stamp that verifies its a Rochester Varajet II (i think the 2 stands for 2 barrels) and i am not sure what this stamp is for but i was trying to figure out what exact model it is I found this website and clicked on "CK277" and it looks like the model i have http://www.carbkitsource.com/carbs/tech/Rochester/Varajet.htm Also this looks like an electric choke so does that mean the the current carb is a 2 barrel / electric choke / Vacuum secondary
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here's the info on the fuel pump its made specifically for carburetors http://www.autozone.com/external-engine/fuel-pump/spectra-premium-fuel-pump/191528_0_5752?&searchText=E8016S Can you send me a link for the correct Webber and Holley carburetor I can't even find the official Webber site and the Holley one asks for engine's cubic inches (not sure how to figure that out) and for maximum RPM I'm assuming around 4600 since i have a 3-speed A904 automatic tranny Also should i get an electrical choke since its easy and regulates the carb automatically and should it have Mechanical or Vacuum Secondaries
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so is there a way to tell what kind of carburetor i have ? I'm pretty sure i have changed the fuel filter from what i have read the 2.8 had a mechanical fuel pump that sat by the carburetor and pulled fuel from the tank to the carb i have put a new electricle one in line right by the gas tank so that it pushes the gas instead of pulling it i have took the vehicle to an exhaust shop and it has an entirely new exhaust new pipes, new cat converter, new muffler i do not think the carb has any vacuum leaks and there is no wiring harness that it plugs into
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yes i have tried that but the carb looks a little more complex then just two or three screws it almost sounds like it runs out of gas i have installed a new fuel pump right by the fuel sending unit near the gas tank and checked if it shoots out gas from the fuel line that connects to the carb it does but I'm not sure exactly if the fuel pump is just used to send fuel for a brief moment once you turn the vehicle on then stops or if its suppose to turn of and on momentary as the engine is running i have decided to wait until tomorrow to test it again because for some reason my motor is really hot and my radiator hose is very warm when you touch it also its has a lot of pressure to when you squeeze it not sure why its heating up so fast i only got it to run for about 8 minutes
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yes the 2.8 was externally balanced so i took the flexplate to a shop that zero balanced it for the 3.4 and the previous owner told me that the carb on it is either new or rebuilt because he wanted one that he could manually tune when i open it up and look inside it doesn't look dirty at all
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Top Of Carb Right Of Carb Left Of Carb
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Hello guys i was wondering if anyone could give me any advice i am working on my 1986-2.8 L GM LR2 V6 when i bought the vehicle it came with a rebuilt 3.4 L L32 V6 it came out of a 1994 Firebird (From what i have read they are the same exact engine just the 3.4 is a larger version of the 2.8) anyways it came with a carburetor and i got the motor to start and run a little but i can't get the carburetor to keep the motor running on idle they only way i can get it to run is by hitting the throttle over and over again is there any links or pics that can help me work on this carburetor i have never adjusted one before but i do have some basic knowledge on them i will try to post pics to so you guys could tell me what kind of carb i have Thanks
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ok i put them on like you said Link to pic: https://ibb.co/dD0eU5 now all i got to do is find someone that can help me put the bed on
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That might just work Cre8tive do you have a short bed or a long one ? mine is the long one
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Here is a pic of the Bed Shims: There are a total of 10 6 (Blue number 4) 2 (Black number 2) and 2 (black number 4) Notice the difference in thickness:
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Rear brake proportioning valve Pics ?
AMC86Kid replied to AMC86Kid's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
ok i made my own rod and finally got a chance to put it on looks so much better now https://ibb.co/eT1XGk -
here's a link to my pic: https://ibb.co/fWWfHQ
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Ok so i took my bed off and repainted it and the frame now i want to put it back on and i remember where the shims go because i took a pic of it but there are different thicknesses on the shims and i don't remember exactly witch number thickness goes where does anyone remember or have a diagram that labels it ? i will try to post the pic i have but tinypic servers have been acting up this whole month
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Rear brake proportioning valve Pics ?
AMC86Kid replied to AMC86Kid's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
will do thanks -
Rear brake proportioning valve Pics ?
AMC86Kid replied to AMC86Kid's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
ok thanks i will try to make the rod should the level on the valve be in parallel to the rear axle ? -
Rear brake proportioning valve Pics ?
AMC86Kid replied to AMC86Kid's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
now all i need to figure out is how to make a rod to hold the valve in the correct level
