AMC86Kid

so they took the cooling intake off and the two headers off the water pump and the timing chain area was not messed with the head gaskets can be replaced with out removing the timing and then the valve lash set was done by turning the crank shaft with a breaker bar as each valve hit peak he tightened them down so they wouldn't wiggle I'm not sure why but he took the distributer cap off and then the distributer off (i though you could just take the whole thing off in one piece with the wires connected to it) then put it back on after it was done so it might be off not sure and yes the oil was changed

its ok i can afford a new one i just need to get my engine back up and running i had a guy change the head gaskets and it looks like the previous shop that put the original ones on didn't torque the bolts down with enough force so thats why i was getting combustion leak only when it revs up any ways the new gaskets are in there and its bolted down tight but i can't get the old carb to start the engine it just keeps back firing on me there must be something wrong with it because we tore the inner gasket to it a little so I'm not surprised if i have a vacuum leak causing the engine to not fire correctly so now i either put on a new gasket for it and try to start it with the old carb or hook up a new carb and see if that makes it easier to fire, not sure

the # W0133-1815473-WEB looks like a different one then the K490 how do i know its the K490 model for example look at this website http://www.redlineweber.com/carb-kits/auto/jeep/ it tells you that the K490 is for the 2.8 V6 and it tells you what vehicles are for the other models thats why i don't feel comfortable buying a new one if it doesn't actually say K490

ok i think i found it so your saying you used this one https://www.morris4x4center.com/weber-carburetor-38mm-dges-2-5l-or-2-8l-k490.html?find=jeep-cherokee-xj-1986-34 and since its the kit i shouldn't have to get no adaptor plate for it should i ??

so your saying that the model K490 works on your 2.8 then i should work on mine but i can't find it for sale online i keep finding other 38 DGES that ore other models like WK551 whats the difference ?

ok so i was wondering what after market carburetors would work for my 3.4 engine is this a good fit ? https://www.amazon.com/Weber-Redline-Carburetor-DGES-Outlaw/dp/B00449TTOQ also how can i tell if it will fit on my engine ? any links would be nice so i can take a look at them

there is a machine shop in town that will resurface them for just 30 bucks a piece so its a pretty good deal to me

I'm gonna take the heads off change the gaskets with new ones and get the headers resurfaced then see if i get as much combustion as i did with the old gaskets in my radiator should be pretty simple i will start on it tomorrow

i might have blown the gasket by running it to hot or maybe they didn't put it on straight who knows but will definitely find out after i take it apart just want to get it up and running so i can go to the lake with it

i think I'm gonna have someone else do it its not worth getting a different engine i have worked on this one enough now

here is my Rad cap info http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=48507&cc=1251931&jsn=396 i think because its an 18 lb cap it was able to hold most of the pressure and i noticed that the reservoir only goes up and not down but i will put a new 13 lb cap on it after the head gaskets get changed

Good new i figured out what my problem is the bad news its a bad head gasket the combustion test passes when the vehicle is idling but when you run it with RPMs then the blue liquid turns yellow so it only leaks when under pressure (i guess i learned something) that must be why my rad hoses have so much pressure in them when i squeeze them now i guess I'm going to learn how mush money this will cost to fix I'm gonna have to pay someone else to change them i don't have enough experience to know that I'm gonna do it correctly

yes the pressure under the Rad cap does build up so the volume is increasing i noticed this as i ran it a little with the cap off but the fluid level in the reservoir only goes up i havent noticed it goes down but i will double check on it tomorrow but that shouldn't cause an over heating problem does it ?

how do i know it the reservoir expansion tank is working?

well i had the fan on the motor side sucking in air and moving it towards the engine and i had a regular ac fan that i put in front of the radiator on full speed so i was simulating that the vehicle was moving and it got up in temp to fast as for the pressure i turned it off and then the reservoir level went up so i had more then 18 lbs of pressure in my radiator thats kind of a lot don't you think shouldn't i always be below 18 lbs

ok so i put on the new radiator and flushed out all the old fluid then filled it up with new fluid and it ran on idle for about 45 minutes and stayed below 200 degrees then i stared running it at around 3,000 to 4,000 rpm and after 10 minutes she starts to get up to the 230 - 240 temp so basically i got it to stay cool at idle speed but i can't get it to stay cool when you run the engine with speed any ideas on what i should do now ? is it possible to take the water pump apart and look at it or do i need new gaskets to do that ? and any ideas on how a good water pump should look or how much pressure it should push? i had it running with no thermostat i will test it again with a thermostat tomorrow also am i suppose to have a lot of pressure in my radiator hoses once it gets up in temp? also the 3.4 has a 18lb Rad cap and the 2.8 has a 13lb Rad cap does it make a difference which one i use ?

i still have the tie rods for my tailgate but i replaced the plastic snap in holders with stainless steal bolts and nuts now i have no problem opening up the tailgate no matter how much abuse it gets from driving also i would like to install keyless door opener as well but have not looked into it yet if you go keyless let me know how it goes

i agree i think it is the radiator i got a new one and I'm in the process of putting it on anyways wile i took the old one off i noticed that the fluid had rust residue in it and the upper flex hose coils inside the hose were rusted to maybe rust spread from the old radiator to the flex hose coils and made the corrosion even worse then the radiator was never able to get rid of the heat so now I'm gonna replace the radiator and replace my hose and flush out the engine i want to make sure i don't clog up my new radiator and its set up

i had done the leak test and it did not turn yellow i let some coolant out to not get any in the test tube but the pressure went up as i ran up the rpms and it flowed in the test tube so i dumped the liquid out and retested it i must have pumped at least a hundred times and all i could get was a teal color i could not get green or yellow so i don't think my head gasket is blown i think either my radiator is bad or my water pump is not pumping with enough pressure do you know how much pressure there should be with the engine running with no thermostat

i think combustion leak test is the better choice for my scenario because i have no smoke coming out of my tail pipe if coolant was getting in the smoke would burn up and get pushed out i tried testing it but my battery needs to be charged so I'm gonna charge it over night and test it tomorrow morning i really hope i figure this out so i can get the rest of the truck done

86FUBAR yes i managed to get the carb to work i also put in a new thermostat its a 180 i put the fan on a manual switch so i turn it on when i want it on if you have anymore questions go to the lastest post and ask right here: https://comancheclub.com/forums/topic/53984-i-think-i-have-an-over-heating-problem/

if the head gaskets don't leak then the radiator might have poor flow threw it due to clogged vents so I'm kinda hoping that the combustion gas test tells me that there is no gases in my coolant then i will simply change my radiator and see if that makes a difference hope this works ...

i don't think its the radiator because when i squeeze the upper hose i can feel the flow of coolant moving pretty good and pressure testing the radiator only checks for leaks in it and i do not see any coolant leaking out of it at all so i called a local mechanic and he thinks that the head gaskets were not installed properly and that i should do the test with the liquid on the radiator cap to see what color it changes to you know what I'm talking about ?

yes it does appear that the wires lead to the computer under the dash i will play around with it and see if there is a way to bypass it for now I'm trying to figure out whats causing my overheating issue

so apparently the timing chain can only go on one way correctly and thats it the guys that rebuilt the engine must have put it on the right way and i really doubt that it jumped a tooth by now well I'm pretty much all out of ideas maybe i can pressure check the radiator do you know if places like autozone do that for free? also is there any way to run my ignition coil with out a computer ?