AMC86Kid

ok so now that i got the engine back up and running i am gonna look up the timing chain info and see if that has anything to do with my overheating issue

i believe that the ignition coil does have some wires that go to the computer but i will have to double check i will look for the oil leak today and look up the timing chain see how thats suppose to work also since were back to an over heating problem i will have to go back to my over heating post

I'm pretty sure we have just regular federal emissions here in AZ anyways i changed the area that my ground was connected to it was hooked up to this bolt on the exhaust so i switched it to the firewall and i was able to get the engine to run for 45 minutes and it did not die but i noticed that i now have a small oil leak, i will let it cool off and try to find it tomorrow when its cold also i checked the temp and at idle she stays around 215 - 220 but then i pushed the gas and tried to see if the temp would go up as the RPM go up and yes the temp was heading up to 230 - 240 so i turned it off looks like I'm back to an over heating issue I'm pretty sure i shouldn't be getting over 220 what do you guys think

yes the jeep did come from California i looked it up does that mean i have a more complex system?

thanks i will read the stuff in the link and see of what i can make of it but just like the pic in the link i have a ignition coil separate from my distributer this is my ignition coil: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6399675&cc=1181393&jsn=386 distributer: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6283911&cc=1181393&jsn=380

i have and the fuel is constantly pumping to the carb so i don't think its the fuel does anyone have like a wire diagram or a pin layout for the ignition coil I'm trying to figure out how its wired to work i feel like the heat is giving me an electrical issue

no its not the battery i think it might have to do with ignition coils electrical wiring i have a new ignition coil but the wiring may loose its signal when it gets up in temp i have to look up how it works and how is it wired maybe i can run new wires away from the heat and see how it performs uk so the one wire to the left goes to the distributer but where do the wires on the 4 prongs to the right go one must be 12 volts and one must be ground but what are the other two prongs for ??

ok so i tested it again this morning and same results it starts up and runs fine when its cold then after 25 minutes of running it gets up to 210 - 225 degrees and i let it run on its own until it died by itself here the new video: https://streamable.com/xlb1b I then went one step further and tried to start it back up after it died on its own but had no luck so i let it sit and cool off check out the bonus video https://streamable.com/io54w any ideas guys, man i sure hope i figure out whats going on so i can finish the rest of the truck

sounds good i will check the upper hose temp next time i run it but now if only i could figure out whats causing that weird noise at the end of the video https://comancheclub.com/forums/topic/53998-34-ltr-engine-stalling/

i think the distributer was already on the motor when i got it

i was scanning around there but my motor does not have any black surface

i never messed with the timing chain just installed the engine with it the way it was the weird part is i only get the problem when the engine gets up in temp it dosent do it when its cooler

how is the cap on the recovery tank suppose to be cause mine is cracked is it suppose to just sit or is it suppose to be completely sealed ? also i looked and i do believe that the water pump is moving the flow correctly

i have the coolant recovery bottle hooked up correctly and i put fluid in it as well oh hers the link for the new post : https://comancheclub.com/forums/topic/53998-34-ltr-engine-stalling/

Ok so here it is guys the video i said i was gonna post: https://streamable.com/do0sb for some reason after i run the engine for about 20 minutes it gets up to its operational temperature which looks to be around 200 - 220 degrees then the motor slows down weirdly and my father turned it off cause we were not liking what it sounded like and didn't want to mess anything else up until we can figure out whats going on you guys have any ideas and feel free to ask me any questions that your unsure of i think the video helps explain my problem a lot

Green Mesa the coolant reservoir dosent even really move like i said i have a 18-lbs radiator cap its the correct one for the 3.4 ltr maybe thats why it runs so warm but any ways i will post a new link here for the new video on the engine slowing down

ok so here a link to the radiator coolant flow after i took the thermostat off i didn't really notice any air bubbles other then the air that was trapped in the upper hose from taking the thermostat off https://streamable.com/wyrr2 the engine did not make the weird sound (this time only ran if for like 3 minutes i guess my head gaskets are good) so i will let it cool down and then put the thermostat back on then run it for 20 minutes again and see if the sound comes back

Yes Green Mesa after i had ran it for 20 min it started to slow down in RPM it just wasn't running as smooth and as steady i took the valve covers off to see if something was loose and i didn't notice anything i don't see why the timing would be wrong after all these test runs that have gone smoothly i guess i will run it with no thermostat again for 5 minutes just to see if i get any bubbles with the radiator cap off if no bubbles then i will put the thermostat back on and run it and see how long till i get the sound back if i do get the sound back then i will try to record a video of it to show you guys "i would really hate to have to take this whole engine apart" and i will probably have to put it up in a new post since its not about "over heating" or at least i don't think it is

ok i will run it tomorrow and see if i get any bubbles not sure with my radiator cap being rated at 18 lbs but its worth a try and if i do end up replacing my head gaskets then i have to go back to figuring out why my engine keeps over heating (so i don't blow the new ones) maybe my radiator is not big enough I'm using the one from the 2.8 i guess i could try a bigger radiator that should cool down the coolant better id imagine do you know what temp your motor runs at Ohm?

do you think i have to replace my head gaskets and the my overheating issues damaged them ?

ok so i put in the new thermostat and ran the engine for about 20 minutes the IR thermometer on the temp sensor read 207 degrees and after the 20 minutes went by i had to shut the engine off because it started to slow down and it started to make a weird knocking sound under the passenger side valve header cover any ideas on whats wrong or what i can do to check it out i will take a look at it again tomorrow and maybe run it a little more to see if it still does the sound so far not good i sure hope i can figure it out

so ideally with a 180 thermostat i should not be getting over 200 degrees on the engine block with the IR thermometer does that sound right to you guys

ok i will try that out and see how it goes

i actually don't have a thermostat i am currently running it without one i got a new 180 just havent put it on yet what temp should i be with no thermostat and any ideas on what can i do to get the temp down ?

ok so tell me what you guys think about my 3.4 liter here's the pics i took with an IR Thermometer this is the temp on the (temp sensor) here's the temp on the block where the top radiator hose connects here's the temp in the hole in the header valve cover and here's the new 16 inch fan i installed it blows towards the engine so i ran the motor for about 15 to 20 minutes and i feel like its getting to hot what do you guys think is the hole in the engine valve cover suppose to be that hot ?