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Update to the 02 Sensor I went to the Jeep dealership today to see if they had a replacement 02 sensor which they didn't but I did get an updated Part number CH5014215-AA in case some one is interested. I check on line for this part but no results. I got a new one in from PartsGeek which is a NGK/NTK 23553. The physical shape of the sensor is shorter than the old one I wonder if that makes a difference? I found an old 02 sensor that appears physically the same as this new one. Before I install this new I'm going to put this old similar one in and see if it works. So as not confuse someone in an earlier post I made, I found the exact same one in a junk yard as the one I pull out that and its working now but who knows how it will work that's why I wanted a new replacement. Will update with my findings in a little while Mike

Wow just like that one where in the world did you find that one? That's exactly what I was looking for. My original ones great but this would really dress the dash up.

Okay thanks to everyone that responded. I went to the replace (junk) yard and found one from a 87 Cherokee check it with ohm meter and it appear good so for $10.00 not bad. I put it in and now it goes to close loop with in a few minutes. I will purchase a new and keep this as spare to use check if the new one goes bad. I'll check with Mopar for a new one first. I also have a RenixEngineMonitor form Nickintime and that's how I found my close & open loop wasn't working correctly. I wish he would make some up in clock face that would be the greatest. Thanks Mike

I've check this and I found 12volts D2-9 key on and I found 4.2 ohms on D2-9. So I think the 02 sensor is bad as it calls for 5 and 7 ohms. I will check the ohm reading at the 02 sensor. Looking at the physical description of mine and comparing it to new ones, the new ones seem shorter and in some of the descriptions for new ones they call it an upstream 02 sensor. I think because mine is ahead of the catalytic converter it would be an upstream 02 sensor. Is there a one manufacturer better over another prices are all over the place. Should I look for one that says upstream? Thanks Mike

I need to replace 02 sensor on 87 4.0 Jeep Comanche engine. I see many replacement ones but what is the correct part for this engine & year? I know its made up of certain materials which if not correct would not work properly. The engine will not go into a close loop even when it reaches correct temperature. Although the engine seems to run okay but I'd like to make sure it's going in to Open & Close loop like its suppose too. I've also clean the grounds. Thanks for your input Mike

Okay I couldn't find it however I remember someone here was able to do look on Vin numbers and he did mine and I thought it was going to be put into the register. Is there still away to look up the history of the VIN 1JTMP631XHT189821. It's registered as an 87 with Virginia DMV.. thanks Mike

So what is the best way to lookup my MJ in the Registry? I just had it painted now and wanted to put a picture with it but not sure how to add the picture either

Update on the HVAC I followed the advice here and got a vacuum tester. What I found is on the two stage canister, one side has a leak in it. So just make sure that my finding was correct I disconnected the cruise control servo and plug the HVAC line in its place and disconnected the main vacuum line from the tee fitting that feeds both sides of the Canister and directly couple it the side with the HVAC line and wallah it worked! When I accelerate now the HVAC stays on vent side and there is no leak through the defroster vent. Just found a new old stock two stage canister for $13 dollars on Ebay site. Hope my findings along with the replies here will help the next person. Thanks everyone! Mike

Thanks

Update my bust that unit on the firewall is part of the cruise control. So now I know what the functions of both half's of the Vacuum Canister are doing my remaining question is where should the Check Valve go, on the main vacuum line that feeds both sections of the Canister or just the output line from the section that controls the HVAC? Sorry any confusion on my part. Mike

Okay so today I look at the Vacuum Canister black line going through the firewall to the HVAC controls there is no check valve in line. So maybe whoever had this MJ before me didn't put the check valve back in. So before I go any further I have another question related to this. I have the football looking Canister which has two sections. The one section is handling the HVAC Vacuum. Then the other side of the Canister has an output line going to a device mounted the fire wall which I can't find any information on but it does have an arm on the opposite end with a cable connected to the accelerator control cable. I don't have any cruise controls on the steering wheel so I was wondering what the purpose of this device is? The main vacuum line that comes from the intake manifold to the Vacuum canister has two tee fitting in it the first tee in the line has a line that I believe goes to the 4 wheel drive harness the second tee splits the vacuum line for each side of the Vacuum Canister. So should there be a check valve on the main vacuum feed line or just the one section of the Canister handling the HVAC? I just want to make sure I put the Check valve in right place. Thanks Mike

I've look in the forum here about HVAC and vacuum line problems but didn't see my problem discussed. I have 87 MJ 4.0 4 wheel drive with automatic transmission. I've moved the vacuum bottle from the front bumper to near the firewall and replaced the hoses. Everything is working okay except I've noticed when I accelerate the HVAC shifts from the vents to the defroster. Well I thought it was a broken line to HVAC but that's not the case. I've check the vacuum at idle and then at acceleration in park and there is no drop in vacuum. However when I put the vehicle in drive I notice the airflow starts to shift to the defroster. I haven't fully investigated why this is happening. Anybody had this problem? thanks Mike

Thanks to both of you. Pete M you mention who carries the brake made of copper alloy? I was going to replace the line and that is a good tip. Mike

So I have a 87 MJ with the factory brake system with rear height sensing valve. I have install a 3" lift in front and to balance the rear I installed Air shocks. I'm going to keep the rear drum brakes. I need to replace the rear brake lines, could I still eliminate this valve and connect the rear lines together and cut the sensing line and install a plug at the block without upsetting the braking system? Mike

My 87 MJ just went into to be painted and looking for the tailgate Jeep decal. Anyone have any idea where I could get one? Thanks Mike

I had an unfortunate impact to the rear bumper of my on drivers side. The bumper is in fairly good shape and I thought about trying to repair it's cave in on left side just to left the support bracket and its dented in a good 3". I know the metal is in good shape not rusty in this part. I repaired this bumper before I put it on the vehicle last summer. It had some dings and a couple of rust holes. I've got a torch and tools but I don't have a press. I guess I could cut it right there and straighten out and re weld it back in place. I kinda hate to do that but I guess it's one way. Anybody got any good hints on how to bring it back out? On another note I pick up a bumper just yesterday, its got some long rust holes slices in it. There not very wide but they are in middle of the bumper. Any good ideas of how to fill them? Of course I don't want to use bondo. I was thinking I could braze in some pieces behind the bumper and work it that way but I'm just guessing right now. Just looking for some good Idea's. For Pete who had got me to thinking about this, I thought it would be better to ask and answer your question over here rather than continue it over on the "Wanted side". Mike Mike

Well I luck out I found one on Criaglist and the best part the guy was coming right down Rt-95 to visit relatives and we were able to meet. I gotta do a work to restore it but not really bad at all. In answer to Pete I back into one of those concrete pillars. I was trying to get out of the way of another vehicle not looking where he was going! Good news is the bumper the brunt of impact drivers side just to left of the support bracket no body damage. Mike

Thanks for the replies. I've check with Car-Part. com not much there I'm still looking hoping someone here might have one.

Looking for an OEM rear bumper for my 87 Comanche. If you have one thats damage but good on left side (driverside) I might interested. A cement piller reach out and took a bit out mine during a snow here!

So just an update, I flushed the heater core about 4 times and used 15lbs of air with the water to give it a little pressure. Then I filled the heater core with prestone radiator flush and let it sit for 30 mins. Then I re flush it with clear water connected everything back, burp it and now I've got great heat now. Here is an interesting link about heater cores: https://heatertreater.net/heater-core

Thank you for the information I've seen what you mean about the paper work being behind stuff. I will check there this weekend.

So this is the only information on it 88 4.0 4x4 ? Thanks Mike