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Top C

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Everything posted by Top C

  1. I'm looking for an original rear bumper for my 87 Comanche . I've been online but not finding much I see the replacements but I wanted to keep my original. The end caps on mine are okay I just need the bumper it's left. I thought maybe someone might have one laying around after putting an after market one on. Thanks Mike
  2. I just found an 87-90 Cherokee instrument Cluster on Ebay in working condition. Its the one with the blue housing, so according to what I've read it should work. I'll need to do the cutout for the shift indicate but that's shouldn't be to bad. So just to be clear this should be a plug and play deal right? I know I need to change the temperature and oil sensors but as long as the plug is the same on both it should be to bad. Mike
  3. I am looking to do this swap. I have an 87 Comanche, I saw the years you had 84-86, 87-90 and 91-92. So for my 87 I should look for one 87-90 would a 91- 92 work? Thanks Top
  4. Great idea never thought about doing that pretty easy. any thoughts on water & dirt proofing the connector ports? I suppose you RTV it that might be the easiest now that I think about it. 

  5. Does this one have the full instrument cluster with gauges? If so much? also looking for a rear bumper and the vacuum lines running to the 4 wheel vacuum motor on the front axle. Thanks Mike
  6. I've either got to fix the vacuum lines or modify my vacuum motor for the front axle as I don't have 4 wheel drive. I've read through many articles about modifying the Vacuum motor for the front drive shaft. I'm curious about one thing, If I do the modification to do either using a cable or just lock it in place, is there any need to keep the vacuum running to the transfer case? Obviously I haven't research this but though maybe someone here might know. I was thinking if I didn't need those lines running back there to transfer case I'd just remove them Cap off the vacuum going to it. Then replace the switch with electrical type switch and run the wires back to the cab and put an idiot light on the end of it. It really wouldn't do anything other than look cool and let you know the transfer case is in-gauged. Top.
  7. I purchased the Renix Engine Monitor II from Nick. This little box does everything that you need to monitor your engine except the oil pressure! I was having a problem with the idle RPMs on my MJ and I was able to locate the problem which was the TPS was out of adjustment. I tweet it with the information Nick had in the instructions and I haven't had problem since.The monitor comes as a complete kit with instructions. I simply opened the box and plug it in and started the engine and went through all the summary of the gauge readouts. I mounted mine on the dash so I can easily see it while driving along. I just ran the Cat 5 cable through the fire wall to to the engine monitoring port and plug the adapter in and the cable. The only thing that concerns me a bit is I need to water proof/dust/dirt proof the adapter connector at the engine port. I've used some good old duct tape for now. The other thing that I mention to Nick was the adapter faces the wrong way when its plug in and your going to be leaving it plug in all the time. The cat 5 cable entry into to the adapter needs to face 180 degrees so the cable will flow out and lay along the fire wall evenly. Nick said he was going make up some adapters to do that as an option. Just makes the install a little nicer. .
  8. I hope this is the right place for this. I wanted to place a wanted or looking for item it the classified section how do I do this? Thanks Top
  9. Well thanks for all the replies. I did find a couple things that seemed to improve the idle. I'll know better once I get my engine monitor from Nick. Here's what I found so far; I had a problem with the NSS - the backup lights were not coming on so I cleaned the switch, it was full of gunk and the two small springs that push on the contacts were gunk up and the one that works the backup light switch blade was not working at all. I fixed that and now that's working great now. This didn't have any effect on the Idle though. The TPS sensor was replaced just before I purchase the vehicle (which was a Month ago) so the only thing I did was reset it that didn't fix the idle. After exhausting everything else including grounds, I decided to swap out the TPS sensor with one I had from another 4.0 Renix engine. I started engine back up and it sound better. I hadn't calibrated it I just put it on and adjusted it to where old one was. This seems to have made a difference as it's not stalling now after its warm up and doing a hard stop or slowing it doesn't seem to stall as it did before. We'll have to see over time if this fixes the problem with the low idle. I also forgot to mention I replace the spark wires these were replaced about year ago. I'd had heard some arching coming from around the spark area so waited until it was really dark outside and then I started the engine back up and sure enough It was arching around several of the spark plugs wells I that stop that. Good quality wires can make big difference. . So we'll see what happens, hopefully this cures the stalling and low idle problem. Mike
  10. Thanks guys I've been busy but I did get with Nick and told me he's finishing up some units now and I'm on list to get one.
  11. How do you check for transmission lockup?No won't start in gear What is IAC?
  12. I have low idle after the engine reaches normal operating temperature. This is causing the engine to stall on sudden deceleration. This is has an automatic transmission and its shifting okay. If I slow/y approach a stop light or sign the engine won't die. It has great pickup no hesitation. The engine does not have a rough idle its low and does surge very slightly though. I have read through pages here of Idle problems and have follow advice give to others. Here is a check list of what I've done so far. Cap & rotor replaced New wires Plugs replaced TPS has been checked and set O2 sensor has been replaced MAP Sensor has been check Throttle body was cleaned Ground wires have been cleaned C101 connector has been cleaned All vacuum lines have been checked CTS has been checked and is working Vehicle starts up normally and will restart if it dies. Engine is not burning oil or smoking Engine does not appear to be running rich Things I have not done Fuel pressure has not been checked Injectors have not been replaced Has anyone else had this problem and what did you to solve it. Looking for other ideas that I could check. Also purchasing a Renix reader from Nick which should help also. Thanks for your help in advance. Mike
  13. Looking to purchase a reader for my 87 Comanche 4.0 engine automatic transmission. Thanks Top
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