Broke

That helps, it does seem to just be there and it doesn't look like anythings hanging down under the dash without a ground. I really do need to get the compressor wiring figured out though, the trucks been immobile for several months but I'll be finishing it soon and I'm going to need that AC when I use it move to a new place in a month or two.

-double post-

Are you talking about the long cable going across the first image? Because that's not what I asked about. Neither is the plug. I'm talking about the four inches of ground wire hanging off the bolt in the dead center of the shot. Something isn't grounded and I need to know what.

Got another batch of orphaned wires to identify. First up, a simple one. Passenger kick panel ground wire; http://imgur.com/a/Ex9MJ Don't know what this connects to but it was clearly lopped off of something. Next, two under the hood on the passenger side; Red: http://imgur.com/a/5tB2E Orange: http://imgur.com/a/AxMkE The orange one seems to be coming out of that harness with the little bit of orange visible. And if anyone could tell me where to hook these two up, that'd be great; http://imgur.com/a/Uz6k2

Any luck? The lower dash panel is hanging slightly forward without it in place and it bugs me.

Great to hear. I was in goodwill recently and saw a Toshiba T3100 that still worked, thought about cooking up a DOS version of the software for a more 'period correct' diagnosis experience.

Having played with microcontrollers and serial links before, would you say that the method can be adapted to an RS232 serial link to a computer? EDIT: Also, if you had a wire to tie into the fuel level sender, would you be able to read the resistance to give a 'miles to empty' reading? I have half a mind to stuff one of these in an XJ overhead console with a compass to replicate the functionality the console originally had.

Trying to find a replacement for the screws that hold the release cable to the lower dash, P/N 3420 1473. I can't find any information on diameter or thread pitch.

That's what I was thinking of doing. While I can probably get clean lower trim cheap and maybe even local, I think I'll try putting some elbow grease into the b-pillars before dropping $200 on an eBay pair I will need to paint regardless. Any recommendations on paint and flatcoat?

I'm getting around to making the interior more presentable, and the trim is a problem area that needs to be addressed. It's clearly worn down, scuffed, right through the color. I'd rather not replace the entire interior if I can avoid it, since all the trim, including the MJ-specific pieces, all show the same wear. What's my best route for refinishing my trim pieces? This image represents the wear typical of most of the pieces. Column trim shows less but similar wear. http://i.imgur.com/86NGim1.jpg

Hey, that is good to hear! Always nice when it is something simple! NOW, go get a volt meter at Harbor Freight...only about 7 or 8 dollars and very much worth having in the tool box. I have a cheap one from Harbor Freight and a $200 Fluke. The cheap one works just fine for car stuff and around the house. I actually grabbed the DMM two days ago and poked around the engine bay for a bit trying to make sure there was good continuity on the power cables, one of my coworkers was jumping a car to take into the shop so I just flagged him down, hooked it up, jumped in and watched the radio while turning the key to ON. The battery read 6.7v when I checked it. The reason I figured it was a fault with the electrical system was because years of tinkering with non-automotive electronics had me thinking that as long as the battery held any charge at all I should be able to get SOMETHING to turn on, guess that's not the case. Honestly, I'm just glad that it's something simple this time. The harnesses are in piss poor shape so I was positive something had finally snapped or corroded through.

Yeah I hooked up a jumpbox and I got power back. False alarm. That battery is nearly brand new so I'm going to go get it swapped out at advance and it should fix that and my starting problem.

Don't spray down the engine. Spot clean it or read up on what needs to be protected if you really wanna wash it anyway.

I remember reading somewhere that Chrysler themselves, when they were working on the early HO models, managed to hit 300HP on little more than an absurdly aggressive tune at the expense of having Class B RV gas mileage. Is there any truth to this or am I remembering wrong?

In the meantime, are there any common component failures that can cause these symptoms? I won't be digging at it for a few days.

I do not at this time. Harbor Freight is always open though.

Battery is brand new and fully charged, even if it was failing or bad I'd still have the lights. Could be corrosion in the cables but I haven't checked. Where does the positive cable terminate?

Back again with more trouble. This time, the damned rat trap won't respond to anything at all. Did an oil change on it, then put it away for the weekend. Come Monday or Tuesday I go out and I get nothing from the key or any controls. No lights, no flashers, no starter, no nothing. What are the first fuses and fusible links I should check and where are they? I am half positive it might be a fuse or fusible link since I've had to repeatedly jump it.

Week after I bought my truck the CPS went out, got one from Advance, zero problems.

I'm interested in if the AW4 does this as well. I haven't tested my speedo yet but this is on the list too.

Anybody know what holds up the brake release? Found out mine wasn't damaged but the screw heads popped off.

Planned on it, had the switch for a while after a new old-timer took one look at me fiddling with the truck for three seconds and told me it was the switch. Hadn't had the chance to throw it in until today.

New turn signal switch has eliminated the problem.

Problem solved, truck moves, repair kit ordered. Wish everything was this simple to diagnose and fix.

This thing is probably gonna be the issue, right? Was loose enough to pull off really easily. Is there a replacement for just the bushing? I wasn't able to confirm it because the first cold day all year here seems to have tanked the battery, but I'll try it tomorrow and see if it works. I heard more noises than last week when I yanked on the shifter with the key turned to ACC, though.