cruiser54

That said, the pedal bracket can shift once the booster is out. It needs to be re-centered. what size studs are on the new booster?

But no matter what, isn't the firewall hole too small? Think about brake light switches also. You won't have to grind the booster rod. I've always done the install with the pedals installed.

It's a crap shoot on brands. I'd rather have a good used one.

But no matter what, isn't the firewall hole too small? Think about brake light switches also. You won't have to grind the booster rod. I've always done the install with the pedals installed.

I would love to see someone do a write-up on the WJ booster. I'll help.

Piston slap became a bigger issue when the HO was introduced.

Think "Cardone"..

Check the booster valve from the end of the hose at the manifold. You shouldn't be able to blow through it. But I bet it's your booster. Go back with a stock one for your needs.

Most of what you hear is piston slap. They make that sound from when they're born until they die. There was a lawsuit about it and Jeep won.

wasn't that easy?

As soon as I saw "Cardone" I felt uncomfortable. I've done about 3 or 4 of these WJ conversions. and a 95 to 96 conversion. Junkyard sourced parts, making sure I got the set-up with the flexible lines included. Yes, the firewall needs to be massaged with the WJ booster. There are other advantages though. Seems more powerful than the 95 to 96. You don't need to rearrange stuff in the engine bay. Pedal is the correct height.

One port goes to manifold vacuum and the other to the plastic tube going through the firewall to the heater control in the dash. Visit the diagram I posted above. The only difference in your case is you will be mounting the ball in the engine bay instead of up under the bumper.

A small one like you have is fine if it has 2 ports. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-help/engine-sensors---emissions/emissions---air-management/vacuum-reservoir/87c789837ca7/dorman-help-plastic-vacuum-tank-unit/mtm0/47076?pos=0

Your vacuum ball only has one port?

Bruce, your fears are unfounded. You're lugging the living crap out of that motor. The shift indicator light was ONLY THERE TO PASS THE DRIVING EMISSIONS TEST!

Or the grounds?

How is the GROUND at that connector? I'm gonna guess it's 12 volt.

Why are you lugging it around? Start shifting at 3,000 RPM. Or higher. That engine was designed to run up to 4800 RPM.

Contact this guy: trevor.skankfootracing@gmail.com BTW, do you have an adjustable MAP sensor?

This is a very common issue and the fix never seems to be the actuator. Those vacuum lines in the engine bay are decades old. Here's a diagram. Scope this stuff out.

Sounds normal to me. Does your Jeep have a tachometer? How high do you ever rev it?

That Traveler brand is good stuff, and reasonably priced.

Rotella doesn't need any help.

That's great oil. Stop leak?

Looks fine to me. Pretty normal. Observe what the Rotella does the longer you run it. Take the same pic now and then.