ComancheFan

Will try tomorrow. Thanks for the idea. Is it possible that something broke internally in my engine?

Also it must be a problem with the distributor because the truck was running fine until I pulled it. The distributor is putting out spark. Maybe my injectors aren’t firing correctly?

Ok my truck still won’t start. I have since put a new distributor and indexed it according to cruisers website. The truck is TDC on the compression stoke and I’m getting nothing. Somehow air is getting into the valve cover and after trying to crank the truck the top end of my engine has a pinging sound similar to if you just shut off a hot engine. What am I doing wrong? I really need this truck for transportation and input would be greatly appreciated.

Correct me if I’m wrong but the distributor can only be installed correctly or 180 degrees out and there isn’t really any adjustment with the position of it?

I believe so but not 100% certain. I tried to start the truck without the ear just the hold down bracket and all it’s doing now is cranking and it blows air out of the top of the valve cover. I tried to turn the distributor and rotor so it’s 180 degrees and it just cracks without any air from the valve cover.

Ok so I cranked the engine by hand and got it to top dead center. I used a screwdriver to gauge when the piston was at the top of its travel. The rotor is right at the number 1 plug at this point. Based on what I was able to research I probably didn’t lose time? So I should be able to just put a new distributor in the same orientation as the one in it?

Also why did it break? I thought I had the distributor all the way seated but maybe it wasn’t?

Ok so yesterday I replaced the Distributor gasket. The Jeep started I moved it about 10 feet back into its spot. Today I went to drive it to work and it started but it was marking a bad clunking sound under the hood. I shut it off to find that the distributor broke right at the mounting bolt. What I’m wondering is did my truck throw time when the ear broke off? What should I do in this situation? The local part store is going to take 3 days to special order me A new distributor. Should I just put the new distributor in the orientation of the old one?

Yeah that looks like it’s out.

Yeah I’m in the same boat with that. Had the truck in the family for 25 years and have been searching for a bumper for around 10. I’m looking into buying a a whole Comanche just for the bumper at this point.

Just seeing this link. I randomly found it myself searching for different aftermarket options. It’s been a day and no communication from the seller. I purchased one but I’m doubtful they actually have them.

So I just thought of something that might be crazy enough to work. What if one were to take a 80s dodge Dakota bumper and combine it with a 80s Cherokee front bumper? It would take a lot of cutting and welding but it might be possible to make a counterfeit MJ bumper.

I purchased a bumper that was in perfect condition aside from the fact that it had a bend similar to the picture above. I hammered it out the best I could. I couldn’t get it even close the metal on the bumper is thick. I ended up giving it to my friend for his MJ as my bumper was in better condition at the time. I probably should of put it In the shed and invested in a press.

Wow I need to look into that. First I need to find a bumper worth straightening.

Yeah I had to straighten my rear bumper after I painted my truck a couple years ago. It was warped enough where it wouldn’t go back on the truck. Now it fits on the truck but just doesn’t sit right. And Is stating to look like Swiss cheese underneath. I have been looking for a bumper for the past 10 years to no avail. I just missed one on eBay couple weeks ago.

I’m sad that I missed this one. I was suppose to get one from a member on here about two years ago for $500 and they backed out. Wish I would of seen this auction in time.

I’m in need of a rust free straight stock rear bumper. I don’t need the plastic parts just the bumper. I’m not concerned with small dings on the bumper that can be smoothed out with filler. Just no warped bumpers. Will pay for shipping to 33967.

It’s clean original paint well taken care of. But it’s only driven for Sunday drives and he hasn’t changed the tires brakes, radiator hoses etc. so there is a lot there and with age gaskets dry out aswell so there’s no telling what needs to be resealed.

Yeah the seller is out of touch with the value of it. I haven’t purchased one with that little mileage before so I’m not sure the value. He is asking $9500 for it. I was thinking $3000-4000 just because I would like to have a matching Cherokee Chief. So if I were to offer him $3000 it would be too much as far as the real value of the truck is? It’s a Florida rust free vehicle if that means anything.

In a unrelated matter. I found a 1987 Cherokee Chief in the same color as my Comanche. However it has 35k original miles and is 2 hours away from me. It’s has spent the past 10 years in the garage. Original paint it even has the factory tires. That being said it needs tlc to be a good driver. As in sure everything rubber is dried out. The owner is reluctant to even sell it. What I’m wondering is what can I offer for it without insulting him but not overpaying for it because it matches my MJ.

Ok excellent thanks. And yes I had all the plugs pulled along with the fuel pump relay unplugged. And I made sure it was WOT. I plan on doing a hot compression test along with one with oil to see if the numbers change.

Looks like my Comanche only my chief has 10 times the mileage and has been repainted. It’s about two hours north. Very tempting. But $10,000 for a Cherokee is hard to justify.

I have used a fabric/leather paint for automotive in the past with good results. This ones in tan but they have other colors aswell. It takes a lot for coverage however. https://www.amazon.com/Sand-Vinyl-Fabric-Spray-6-Pack/dp/B00KWGZ1DS/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=fabric+auto+paint&qid=1552166754&s=gateway&sr=8-7

Make sure the vaccume lines are all connected with no cracks. I once had a crack in the line to the map sensor and that made me run a bit rich.

Ok so I just got finished with a cold compression and leakdown test. 1-134psi 2-137psi 3-133psi 4-129psi 5-136psi 6-133psi I put 90psi into each cylinder and they all dropped down to arround 80 psi. I could hear some air getting into the oil pan but nowhere else. Dose anyone know what the factory spec for this engine is?