ComancheFan

I have replaced the valve cover with a aftermarket one with the better gasket about 100k miles ago. The Ccv isn’t hooked up to the air box anymore but is a chrome breather that sits on top of the valve cover.

That and my budget would be $100 in seals/gaskets and a case of beer.

Yeah I would like to build it. However it’s my only vehicle so I will need to wait until I have a vacation if a rebuild is in the works. Or maybe throw a junkyard engine in for $250 and take my time rebuilding it. Either way I agree I need to do a compression test and leak down to see the health of the engine. And every oil seal/gasket aside from the front crank seal is leaking.

So my Comanche has 310k miles on it. What I’m faced with is fixing the many oil leaks it has or to just replace the whole engine. I know the oil has been changed religiously for the past 250k Miles. And 200k of the 250k mikes I’ve owned it have been on the highway. The engine gets decent fuel economy for a 4.0 with 4wd and 31” tires 16-18mpg. However it dose have some blowby. It also feels like the low end power on the engine isn’t what it once was. What I’m not sure is if it’s worth resealing the engine without rebuilding it. Maybe I should just leave it and add oil? Hopefully you guys can point me in the right direction.

So my directionals radio hazards horn coolant temp sensor don’t work when the Jeep is in the run position. Everything will turn on and work if I turn the key back and forth a couple times and it will be in The run position. Once I crank the Jeep to start it the assesories go out. I took apart the top part of the Colum because it felt like the lock cylinder was binding. After taking it apart it appears everything mechanical in the upper part of the colum is moving as it should. I’m considering putting in a new ignition switch. Any suggestions on what I should look for?

Right. I now have functioning brakes. Hopefully Sunday I will get arround to putting a new belt on.

Ok sorry if I'm jumping all over the place with problem I’m having. My original problem was a coolant leak and white smoke coming from the exhaust manifold. The coolant leak has been resolved. I then discovered the white smoke has nothing to do with the coolant leak. I then found a pinhole in a hardline leaking what appeared to be brake fluid. What I saw apon further inspection was that the rear brake line behind the vent tube is leaking and not the vent line. I have replaced the brake line and there are no more leaks and no more smoke. I appreciate the help and like you said there can be all kinds of problems with a 30 year old vehicle. From service records I was able to see it was driven in New York 1986-2001 1-190k Miles. Then it spent 2002-current in Florida 193k-220k miles.

Yes it could and it’s what I thought it was. I pulled the intake off and pressure tested the system to find out it was just the lower radiator hose leaking. I changed the hose and water pump no more coolant leaks. What I need to figure out is why I have brake fluid coming out of a pinhole in the fuel tank vent line and spraying on the exhaust manifold.

Yes I thought it was a freeze plug or head because of the way it was smoking and I was confused as to how it wasn’t leaking anywhere but the lower radiator hose so I kept adding pressure sure the leak would appear.

The Jeep came with new hoses and a water pump so I went ahead and installed them and there is no more coolant leaks. The source from the smoke appears to be from the fuel vapor line. When I first noticed the leak in the line the intake was off so the booster was already disconnected. Also probably unrelated but the brake light stays on and the brakes go to the floor on startup.

That’s very strange. It only shoots fluid out when I push the brake petal or if the Jeep is running.

https://ibb.co/fH0PCU https://ibb.co/eyJBsU here's the pictures of the Brake line and the canister it runs to.

I just pressure tested the Jeep with the manifold off. At 25psi the only leak is the lower radiator hose. I found where the white smoke is comeing from. There is a pinhole in the brake line that connects to a vaccume line and goes to the canaster under the coolant resivor. I’ll put pictures so you can see what I’m talking about. I'm wondering if I can just cut the brake line and put a longer piece of vaccume line or is it a high pressure line?

Yeah hopefully It’s just the gasket. This was a impulse buy. It needs brakes, rust fixed around the windshield, a new windshield, water pump and belt rear lift gate aligned, driver floor pan. It’s a Chief with 4wd and for $300 I couldn’t pass it up and I didn’t want to see it end up getting crushed.

I will pull the intake and exhaust manifold off and see where I’m at. I have put over 350k miles on my Comanche without needing to pull the head but without a water pump it’s hard to say. Incase the head is warped or cracked what year 4.0 heads should bolt on without modification?

I can’t see where it’s leaking because the front diff is in the way. It’s leaking on the the exhaust manifold but it’s under the intake. As soon as I turn it on it’s a cloud of white smoke. I’m thinking it’s a head gasket but I would hate to pull it apart to find that’s not it.

Now that I think about it. It may be a head gasket. The water pump pully is froZen and there is no serpentine belt.

1987 Cherokee 4wd automatic 4.0. On a cold start up there is a ton of white smoke coming from the exhaust manifold area. When it’s off there is a slow leak of antifreeze. The leak is underneath the intake but above the freeze plugs. I checked the oil and it’s not milky. I’m hopping someone here has delt with this issue before so I know if I should part out this one or fix it. Maybe there is a temp sensor under the intake that could be leaking?

Thanks! Yeah I didn't have the money in the budget to rent a booth. Overall i'm happy with the way it came out.

. Final Coat of clear.

Base-coat done.

.Primed And Blocked

Here's what I did just in case anyone else runs into the same problem. I just put two zip ties on the rod preventing the clip from moving.