ComancheFan

So I guess where should I go from here? I remember that I once has a 1988 cherokee that the blower didn't kick in at all and it ended up being a badly burnt connector behind the climate control panel. Maybe I should look there?

The fuse was melting regardless of the fan speed. I just cleaned up the ground and added a ground close to the blower. This was definitely a problem as when my lights were on my directional light in the cluster would stay lit up. I've been driving around like that for around 100k miles. Cleaning the ground fixed that. I also cleaned the contacts in the fuse box. I took my jeep for about a 30 minute ride and the fuse got hot and slightly melted but not near as bad as before.

Thanks for the quick reply, are you referring to the ground wire coming right off the blower? It appears the blower has been changed before as there is shrink wrap on the ground and positive wires.

Ok so now that I have gotten my Freon leaks fixed I found a new problem. When I turn the air or heat after about 5 minutes the fuse in the fuse box will melt. I’m hoping someone can point me in the right direction as to where the problem is? A short somewhere in the wiring? A corroded connection?

My jeeps manual and so is the Cherokee I will be pulling the cluster from. I currently have the big fuel gauge where the tac is in the cluster I want to swap in.

I didn’t think to take pictures. I might head back there today. I want to get the 89 ECU along the the gauge cluster with the tac. I’m just not sure what it will take to make the tac work in my MJ.

So I have a 1988 MJ Chief with a 4.0 manual 4x4. I found a 1989 Cherokee with a 4x4 manual 4.0 in the junkyard today. I’m wondering what’s involved in doing a cluster swap. The reason I want to is I don’t have a tachometer in my Comanche but I do have gauges. What should I pull off the Cherokee to make it so all the gauges work in my Comanche? Do I need to run a extra wire for the voltage for the tac? Are the sending units different?

Nice looking Cherokee appears to of been a daily but rust got to her. Super clean grey interior with a perfect dash!? 1989 Renix. I don’t have any more room for parts and I don’t want to see a nice 4x4 drivetrain go to waste. It’s located at garden street upull in Fort Myers Florida.

It sounds like your tying to do this on the cheap. Spending $1200 on top tier paint with perfect color match isn’t going to help you. Try and look into the Nason paint line. It should be about $500 to 2k prime base and clear. And make sure you have a decent paint gun with good clean air. Don’t buy a harbor freight gun to save money they just don’t spray right, and if your learning it’s going to be near impossible go get a decent finish with one. If your painting without a booth there will be dust that will land in the paint I would stick with a neutral solid color.

If anyone here wants it he’s at $6000 but it needs to be gone tomorrow otherwhys he’s putting it in storage.

The more I think about this the more it’s looking like a impulse buy that’s going to end up costing me more that I would like to put into it. I don’t have a garage so I would spend a lot of my time washing waxing and trying to preserve the original paint. I would be too scared to drive the thing and rack up the mileage. And for what I would use it for a $1000 Cherokee will do the same thing. As much as I would like to own this one I think I’ve talked myself out of it.

Ok I have arranged a time tomorrow morning to look at the Jeep and possible buy it. I will keep you guys updated.

I’m going to see if I can’t look at it tomorrow look the Jeep over really hard and then see about throwing him a offer I can live with.

I’m in the Fort Myers/Port Charlotte area. And yeah I would be buying it to keep not resell I just didn’t really know the market on clean XJs as they are far and few and didn’t want to overpay for it.

Yes. He’s selling the truck on Craigslist locally with a asking price of $8900. I really dig the truck but I’m not sure what I should give him for it,

Ok so this Jeep is 1 hour away from me. I really like the truck what is the max I should shell out and not be overpaying? I have seen some low mile MJs go for crazy numbers but not really much for the XJs.

just tried wires and no change. I changed the distributor a couple weeks ago and that came with a new cap and rotor, it ran fine for about 350 miles since I changed the distributor then it started acting up. Tomorrow I’m going to check all the grounds and install a chassis ground. One thing that’s was odd is I put my Jeep TDC when I installed the distributor and didn’t want to run when I indexed it. While I was at work I had my dad take a look at my Jeep and see if he could get it going and he pulled the distributor and slightly turned the oil pump screw about 6 different times and got it started. Like I said it’s ran good for 350 miles but maybe it’s possible it’s something with the distributor?

Ok so I have replaced both motor mounts and transmission mounts and the problem persists. I drove the Jeep about 200 miles since doing all the repairs and for about a 20 mile period it stopped. I can definitely say it’s a engine related issues not only because there’s nothing left in the drive train that could be causing this but it’s gotten worse and I can feel the truck misfiring. I’m going to try a new cap and rotor with wires and go from there. However I noticed my right directional is blinking fast and there are no bulbs out, dose my ignition system share a ground with one of my lights?

First think I checked. They took a little grease but there no play in them. I also just got done with changing the motor mounts. It’s odd I drove the truck about 50 miles today and for about a 2 mile stretch it completely stopped shaking. I’m starting to think it might be a engine issue. I’m going to try a set of wires and see what happens.

It’s a 1988 4.0 Renix. I tried to load test the truck by putting the parking break on and letting out the clutch while giving it gas. However when I put the truck in 4wd low it doesn’t seem to have any vibration issues. Also if i baby the gas and barely take off it doesn’t shake. It’s 800-3000 rpm if I give it decent throttle in any gear it will shake.

Ok update. I had a retired Jeep mechanic look at it. The issue is something with the engine. I changed the plugs and checked the fuel pressure. The idle pressure is at 30psi and without the regulator plugged in it’s 40psi. Also when under load at idle it’s at 30psi. I’m thinking I may have a bad sensor.

There definitely is some play in the motor mount right by the distributor. Also I noticed that the truck only shakes 3000rpm or less if I’m above that there doesn’t appear to be a issue.

So last night I noticed my Jeep was shaking more than normal while driving. What I noticed the noticeable more shaking is only happening while the truck is under load. I checked all my ujoints and there’s no play there. I have a 5speed ax15 tranny and it appears that I can slightly move my transfer case with my hand is this normal or should there be no play? Also I tried to let the clutch out on a hill not moving but under load and the truck started shaking then aswell. It almost feels like a engine issue and can be felt in the steering wheel. What I’m wondering is should I fix the transmission mount and go from there or should a slightly loose transmission not be able to cause this?

Also chrome vinyl wrap can work wonders if used correctly on these old emblems.

I just got great news. My dad got it running. He kept removing the distributor turning the oil pump screw ever so slightly and on about the 8th time of doing so it started. After fixing the leaks I did notice that I’m getting really bad blow but I guess that’s part of life of a well used 4.0